Farmertech Pimesaw Head??

[Macpherson]

43 minutes ago, Haironyourchest said:

 

Nice one. Yeah I have watched some vids, seems a pretty strong fix if done right. I'll try it, can't make it any worse anyway.

 

Aye, from my useage of the stuff the most important thing to take onboard while getting it to bond is just how quickly many alloys form an oxidised surface layer and the utmost importance of using a stainless wire brush to avoid ferrous particles depositing in the repair and cleaning the area of all oils including finger prints.. Isopropyl alc or Acetone do that. 

 

And if you get a bit 'tacked' and go to set about the next bit... just give it another brush to keep the surface exposed and fresh while remembering all the time that all you've already done will run away like watery  solder if you over heat it.

 

You'll be surprised just how hard any excess material that you have to dress afterwards is compared to an  Alloy casting and I'm also sure that if you manage to get the hang of it you'll find many instances in life where this is the best repair option... Cheers. 

 

BTW. you will likely use more rods than you would think to do a small repair but any spillage can be saved for the next time and reused.

Edited February 21, 2023 by Macpherson

[bmp01]

On 21/02/2023 at 00:46, Macpherson said:

 

Aye, from my useage of the stuff the most important thing to take onboard while getting it to bond is just how quickly many alloys form an oxidised surface layer and the utmost importance of using a stainless wire brush to avoid ferrous particles depositing in the repair and cleaning the area of all oils including finger prints.. Isopropyl alc or Acetone do that. 

 

And if you get a bit 'tacked' and go to set about the next bit... just give it another brush to keep the surface exposed and fresh while remembering all the time that all you've already done will run away like watery  solder if you over heat it.

 

You'll be surprised just how hard any excess material that you have to dress afterwards is compared to an  Alloy casting and I'm also sure that if you manage to get the hang of it you'll find many instances in life where this is the best repair option... Cheers. 

 

BTW. you will likely use more rods than you would think to do a small repair but any spillage can be saved for the next time and reused.

 

Thanks for the tips. 

I can feel some repair work coming on. I've got a busted pole saw head in need of fixing too.

[Macpherson]

6 hours ago, bmp01 said:

 

Thanks for the tips. 

I can feel some repair work coming on. I've got a busted pole saw head in need of fixing too.

 

Aye, it's a very interesting alternative to alloy welding, but just bear in mind that it's essentially a type of high melting point solder, and although it creates a very strong repair it will just run away in a flash if overheated.

 

Imo the best way to repair any bust Alloy is a TIG weld with the correct rod, and on very small items this is a  [ very worthwhile ] skill that's only learned through much practice.

 

What HTS 2000 is to me, is a practical method of repairing things that I would previously considered to be scrap... for instance small broken off lugs on carbs that can be recast in situe and seamlessly repaired, or just the ability to ' solder ' pot metal things that really can't be welded...

 

It's Achilles heal is the simple fact that if the repair ever gets heated up beyond a certain temp.. it will just melt away.

Loads of vids on YouTube showing off the impressive possible uses of this now ' not so new ' techniche for repairing / joining  non ferrous things. cheers.

[Peter 1955]

When I broke mine, I was told that it was a once in a blue moon occurrence, and only me and a bloke in the highlands of Scotland had managed to break one. I think I was perhaps misled. 

 

I too used the jubilee clip method as a temporary repair, it's surprisingly effective. There's a definite design weakness.