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makita EA4300 help please.


neiln
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thanks shavey.  my 2 year old settled quickly so I dashed out and dismantled the plastics carefully....took more off than needed just to be sure so ended up with the recoil off and the metal plate on the clutch side....but got it apart without breaking anything or losing anything.  with the plastics off, including gently pulling off the intake box/boot, it was easy to get to the elbow and reinstall the impluse line, yay!  thanks all.

 

Git it all back together....only missed the spring for the run switch and had to remove the plastics again partly...but then all back together, nothing left over.  good.  Had a quick peek at the carb and i was imagining it, the gauze is there. it looks clean so I've reinstalled, and when i get a chance at a sensible hour I'll see if it runs, if it doesn't I'll go at the carb again.

 

high screw.  its not a screw....its got some limiter screw thing.....with the carb out i could see no way to move the screw at all... err...?  if i get round to de catting it I'll need to richen it up so wtf do I need to do to that screw?

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yeah...checking the manual it says only the low, labelled S, is adjustable.  that needs remedying.  Is there a way or does it mean new carb?.....or is it a case of a special tool....ahhh i bet it is...a screwdriver like thing with a socket fitting not a blade?

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sorry for all the questions.  in that youtube he says pacman type but is that standard or small?  although i didn't notice a slot/spline....hmm, one of these? 

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

LED String. 1 Double D Screwdriver. 1 Pac Man Screwdriver. 1 Splined 21T Screwdriver. Application: Carburetor repair tools. Steam brush. Makeup brush. Motor Drive Module.

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

Think I "Fixed" it. I took the  the carb off another saw and it now seems like it runs ok, so looks its was some issue with the carb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still have another (the same  model )not fixed.

 

 

Symptoms are I can't adjust carb to idle right, either the chain turns or or cuts out, & it also  cuts out and bogs in the cut.

 

 

Think it might be an air leak as tried  a new carb and new coil with no improvement

Was  a cheaper after market chinese coil though.

I've checked the piston from exhaust side its looks ok.

 

 

Anything else to check apart from a pressure vac test?

 

 

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It sounds like an air leak. You can sometimes tell if you are very used to adjusting carbs. What you find is that when you wind the L screw in, the revs don't die as the L screw is screwed right in. 

Typically, if the saw was running well and you notice that the saws idle has increased and that the top end revs are too high, it is an air leak.

The chain spinning symptoms can sometimes be attributed to a broken clutch spring or dodgy sprocket bearing so worth considering.

The bogging could be lack of fuel.....blocked carb strainer, holed pump diaphragm, holed fuel line or fuel filter.

I hope you have some time!!

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Its had a new fuel filter.

 

Only have ever adjusted the idle screw as the H & L need some type of special screw driver as mentioned above

 

WWW.MANUALSLIB.COM

Makita DCS3500 Manual Online: Technical Data. Stroke volume Bore Stroke Max. power at speed Max. torque at speed Idling...

 

 

The repair manual^

 

I see would need to dissemble the whole thing acess the fuel lines on p1 of the from the parts diagram below?

 

 

 

 

http://download.dolmar.com/manuals/16393.pdf

 

 

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I am not that familiar with this model although it looks like you can remove the carb, top cover and then remove the lower housing that sits over the rear handle. Sometimes you can remove the AV mount screws and any limit screws to pull the rear handle down to pull the fuel lines off.

 

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