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chestnut stakes treatment


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yes it is indeed trouble is chestnut was getting a bit of a bad name for lasting due to the amount of summer cut timber that is being sold and the customer isnt any the wiser they just think all chestnut doesnt last so they go back to softwood which isnt as good now they had to change the chemicals trouble is most timber has such a quick turn around now that its to wet to take the treatment even though tanalising is put under a vacum it can only push it in as far as the moisture in the timber has come out but i think the british standard for tanalising is only about 6mm penatration anyway

 

 

british standard for tanalising is only about 6mm penatration anyway:thumbup:

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thank you all for your sound advice shall come usefull tomorow in meeting when i put forward using it for stock and deer fencing seems the way to go,i have already got the go a head to make tree stakes and stakes to mark edges of grass strips for the els grant so they can map the gps,we have had no set up costs just 2 bill hooks to peel and axe and saw to point them and a few wedges to split the tree stakes and rails,surprised how many we made and how easy to peel in first day would say we made 150 stakes and some of that time was spent setting up a work area,so would like to aim for 200,not bad as we getting grant that covers a good part of the cost of cutting the coppice,and a stake worth about £2 ,and may be one day look into getting a pto driven pointer and peeler when i have shown it will be worth it:001_cool:

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Why peel the bark off let it do it naturally, I point them with an axe and the fencing should easy last 15 years. I know someone who had a sweetchestnut fence and lasted 35years, he pulled it up split them and made a smaller fence.

You don't need to dip the tips leave it all natural inc bark as lots of tannin.

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we don't treat our chestnut stakes - and they last for years and years

 

peeling will (i believe) prolong the "life" of a stake / rail / pile

we do ours by hand - with long handled peelers and assortment of bill hooks / knives for cleaning up and we only point with an axe

 

sometimes - on large stuff - that we want for splitting into large planks or decent sized shingles - and that is green - we paint the ends to stop it opening up - if that makes sense

 

i don't think you can beat a good bit of chestnut fencing

 

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Sweet Chestnut doesn't need treating, it's the most rot-resistant wood you could hope for. Peeling helps the post stay tight in the hole as the bark goes first.

 

Some people dip the top of a post in PVA to help prevent splitting, I don't think it is a common practice. Chestnut doesn't absorb stains or preservatives well, so even if you do decide to dip it you won't get good penetration, I have experimented with water and spirit based stains and none I tried went deeper than 1/2 mm into the sides or 5mm into the bottom. I had one test piece soaking in creosote for months and the creosote just wiped off it leaving white wood behind.

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Does anyone on here do split chesnut laths for use with lime plastering on my listed building project?:001_smile:

 

Winter cut of course:thumbup:

 

Doh, im in north Wiltshire by the way and standing wood would also be good

 

could probably supply you with the right timber suitable - but doubt we would have time to split it for you (but my dad could show you how to do it - if you needed any advice)

 

our little copse of chestnut is near romsey btw

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