Stove pipe stuck inside flue?

[Olivhp1]

Hello,

I’m wondering if anyone can help me? I removed my log burner to check the air flow at the back as it hasn’t been working very well recently. When I came to put it back I noticed I had accidentally pushed the stove pipe up the flue and it has lodged itself in there. I’m not able to put it back out as the stove pipe is now too short. Is this a common problem? I’ve attached an image below. Thank you!

[neiln]

Looks to me like there is an installation error there.  I think you've a top hat style adapter which should screw to the register plate with the pipe spigot bit below, the stove pipe should then slip over the outside of that.  Male to female joints with the male bit down, so creosote/soot etc stays inside all the way down to the stove.

I think therefore.... You've a bodge, wrong size adapter for your stove pipe.

Edited October 23, 2020 by neiln

[Haironyourchest]

You just need to pull the stovepipe down harder - with mighty strength and effort. If this is impossible, then you must use physics instead.

 

Drill a self tapping hex head Tek screw into the stovepipe, three inches from the bottom, one on the right side and one on the left side. No washer. Then tap the pipe down with a hammer, by hammering down gently on the Tek screw heads, alternating left and right.  

 

 

[doobin]

1 hour ago, Haironyourchest said:

You just need to pull the stovepipe down harder - with mighty strength and effort. If this is impossible, then you must use physics instead.

 

Drill a self tapping hex head Tek screw into the stovepipe, three inches from the bottom, one on the right side and one on the left side. No washer. Then tap the pipe down with a hammer, by hammering down gently on the Tek screw heads, alternating left and right.  

 

 

I normally agree with you but I can't see that working. OP will just have a dented flue with the potential for fumes leaking. It's one of those jobs where all you can really do is pull it apart and do it again properly.

 

Actually, if the tiop hat is the probem I'd just try tapping that up alternately as you suggest. Whilst holding the flue.

 

When working on circular stock, tapping all around is often more effective than left and right.

[Haironyourchest]

I don't doubt you are right about the top hat thing, just to clarify my idea is to strike "with" the direction of the pipe. Three strike points would be better, if there is room.