fancy advanced climbing

[jarnii]

you can use two i think the french do it for a method of footlocking which saves the load on the knees, they just use a set of kongs/ascentrees on the upper. pantins are good the only thing i dont like is having the pantin come out when ascending on srt but you can get a small snap called a shadow from dmm and these are wicked. they go through the hole stop the cam from popping and are easy to get out at the top.

 

josh to be honest your set up sounds good if your not using srt and do large trees then it could be worth looking at, also using a small prussic on your lanyard can help with work positioning, there are a few small tricks you can do in and around the tree i dont think its so much about the gear its how it works for you and if its worth putting on your harness, i carry a bit of gear and may only use it once in a while but when i do its worth it.

[Marc]

[ame=

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Been posted before, its still an intresting method, also look at the DLRW 2 video.

[josharb87]

I prefer to footlock the tail of my line rather than use a pantin, i also find it more comfortable and slightly more ergonomic as using just your right or left foot can get tiring, the other benfit is you always have your feet a pantin you have to attach and leave on.

Using a Ropeguide and hitchclimber with vt/knute can improve your climbing. At he end of the day these fancy gadgets are only as good as the climber using them, I work with climbers still on prussiks that are better than me its down to experience.

 

i hear what youre saying about footlocking marc, ive done a little bit, but i actually like the idea of a pantin for big trees

im on HC with VT, and by no means a sloth, but theres always room for improvement. last year i entered my first small comp, done well, this year id like to enter a few more

 

you can use two i think the french do it for a method of footlocking which saves the load on the knees, they just use a set of kongs/ascentrees on the upper. pantins are good the only thing i dont like is having the pantin come out when ascending on srt but you can get a small snap called a shadow from dmm and these are wicked. they go through the hole stop the cam from popping and are easy to get out at the top.

 

josh to be honest your set up sounds good if your not using srt and do large trees then it could be worth looking at, also using a small prussic on your lanyard can help with work positioning, there are a few small tricks you can do in and around the tree i dont think its so much about the gear its how it works for you and if its worth putting on your harness, i carry a bit of gear and may only use it once in a while but when i do its worth it.

 

how will a small prussick help on my lanyard? surely that would be going backwards?

 

i carry naff all gear, just a spare carabina and a small sling. dont want any junk, just genuinley usefull stuff!

[josharb87]

thats a brilliant video marc, could save alot of time and effort on the right job

[Rupe]

Going back to the original picture. WTF!

 

I see where he's comign from but a bit OTT IMO.....

 

To save your friction hitch on long descents it is possible to use an 8, if you have a tree motion harness you can just clip it to the lower side D ring, left or right dependant on what side you prefer, so its below your friction hitch and hitch is the back up. You'll be descending off one side of the harness only which is a bit odd but on the TM its ok.

 

After that, just a quick thing about terminology... our normal double rope technique is called Ddrt and not DRT as that is something else.

 

So its Srt for single rope technique and Ddrt for Double(d) rope technique.

 

Drt I think is doube rope technique which is like double ascent ropes for caving or in our case footlocking or twin foot ascenders on two fixed lines would be Drt.

 

 

While we are at it can someone remind me what Rads stands for? I know waht it is but where did the abbreviation come from?

[josharb87]

thanks for the termonoligy rupe

 

whys it ott for srt? looks pretty simple to me:confused1:

[Rupe]

Just my opinion. I can see the benefit for long descents to save the hitch.

 

Anyway I guess its supposed for working off srt, and that is something I don't see the point of. We have the most perfect system for our industry (Ddrt) and its simple and safe and practical and can be improved, changes etc etc. I don't understand why anyone would want to work off srt all day long?

 

Srt for access, and maybe do a bit on the way up if you want, but Ddrt is such a good system.

 

Anyway just my opinion, thats all, and ,my opinion is usually wrong.

[Marc]

ok Rupe i'll refer to D'dRT as such to avoid confusion i just get lazy and type drt.[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyXwrXgN0qw]YouTube - the F8 revolver[/ame]

 

Here is a video of the Fig 8 Revolver from the picture is use, although i think the Fig 8 can lead to confusion it works perfectly well with a large ring like the ART ring its not really intended for D'dRT.

 

Rads stands for Rapid Ascending and Descending System i think, although i don't find it particularly rapid.

 

Going back to the original picture. WTF!

 

I see where he's comign from but a bit OTT IMO.....

 

To save your friction hitch on long descents it is possible to use an 8, if you have a tree motion harness you can just clip it to the lower side D ring, left or right dependant on what side you prefer, so its below your friction hitch and hitch is the back up. You'll be descending off one side of the harness only which is a bit odd but on the TM its ok.

 

After that, just a quick thing about terminology... our normal double rope technique is called Ddrt and not DRT as that is something else.

 

So its Srt for single rope technique and Ddrt for Double(d) rope technique.

 

Drt I think is doube rope technique which is like double ascent ropes for caving or in our case footlocking or twin foot ascenders on two fixed lines would be Drt.

 

 

While we are at it can someone remind me what Rads stands for? I know waht it is but where did the abbreviation come from?

[Marc]

 

 

how will a small prussick help on my lanyard? surely that would be going backwards?

 

 

I use a cinch (type of ascending descending grab) on my lanyard, my lanyard is 10mm ocean poly 9m long, near the karabiner i have a small (tiny!) prussik this way i can cinch round stems without side loading the karabiner which is bad. In this config i then have an 8m long sinle line, I keep the tailexcess of my lanyard in a small hip bag on my left.

[josharb87]

not sure i get it tbh marc:confused1:

 

hows a cinch help you?

is the prussic load bearing?

 

my lanyard is approx 3-4m long 13mm, and a distel for the hitch