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Wich Chain for fast milling on long bar?


gonger
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4 minutes ago, gonger said:

Personally i dont like the Granderg 12 Volt Sharpener. In my opinion it is hard to all the teeth to the same length with this device. I bought a stationary device and drilled trough my mill to get rid of the clamping for faster chain changes. 

You've gotta learn how to use it. A Good tip is to do one side, then when starting on the other get your Calipers out and see if the first tooth you file is longer, shorter or the same as the fist side and micro-adjust to suit. Each to their own though. If I hit metal and need to mill 1-2mm off each tooth in the forest you'd be there all day with a hand file. Between slabs I'll use a file for a quick dress-up. 

 

11 minutes ago, gonger said:

So wich one should i choose? A Skip, semi Skip or Hyper Skip Chain? 10° or 30°?

 

11 minutes ago, gonger said:

That is what i am talking about. The wood is going to be planed anyways and i calculate my wood slabs oversize so i have room for that. 

I guess whatever you feel happier with and what you plan to mill and how big your Saw and Mill is?  There has obviously been some R&D gone into tooth angles and number. If they recommend  5°, 10° ir even 15° for Milling and not 30° then Id be inclined not to waste my time experimenting with 30° unless you have chains needing used up. 

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I used a cross cut 30 degree chain when I first made a mill.
Lots of lateral chatter, ridiculously slow and the slabs were like washboards.
I then used Oregon and stihl ripping chains.
What a difference, smooth fast cut and a nice finish.
Years later I read "chainsaw lumber making" by Will Maloff. He used 0 degree top plate for a very smooth finish.
When I finally bought a bench mounted grinder I started grinding to 0 degrees.
The finish when carefully sharpened is so smooth, most of my clients don't believe it's cut with a chainsaw until I show them a video.
It is slower than 10-15 degrees, so in your situation a faster ripping chain with full skip and you'd be flying.
[emoji106]

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Ok. Then i am going to buy a 10° Chain. But still not sure if i should choose hyper skip or full skip.

What about durability/number of cuts on those? I suppose, that the full skip stays longer sharp, but is slower than the hyper skip, right? 

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Ok. Then i am going to buy a 10° Chain. But still not sure if i should choose hyper skip or full skip.
What about durability/number of cuts on those? I suppose, that the full skip stays longer sharp, but is slower than the hyper skip, right? 

Buy both and find which you prefer.
[emoji106]
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  • 4 years later...

Four years later....

 

Personally I use normal crosscut chain for milling.  It means hand sharpening uses the same muscle memory for every chain I own.  Plus I occasionally use my 36 inch milling bar for crosscutting logs.  Plus I mostly mill bendy, knotty hardwood so some of my milling is actually part cross cutting, if that makes sense. I've bought 10 degree chains before but taken then back to 30.  I didn't really find it made much difference, even the finish was similar if you are consistent with your sharpening.

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