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Posted (edited)

I bought a husqvana 435 and it had a pdi check before being delivered,  it has a big flat spot on rev start.

 

I bought the last 236 husqvana from the same supplier thats just a rip saw out if the box.

 

So my 435 while only 40.9cc even when warm it's got this nagging flat spot,  am I right on my research that they are restricted from factory settings until ten fuel tanks have gone through them ? 

 

It's just a bag of shit on low revs.

 

I just wondered if anyone has had the same problems.?

 

I know about carbs but i dont want to start fiddling without good chainsaw advice ?

 

Thanks.

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Edited by Woodsearcher

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Posted (edited)

Have you got a spline driver to adjust it with, where did you buy it from ? Never heard of any 10 tank restriction, how would it know ? I had to richen the L screw of my 135 (similar saw) to get it to start when hot. Saws are not meant to run on low revs, tick over or flat out once started.

Edited by peatff
Posted
1 hour ago, peatff said:

Have you got a spline driver to adjust it with, where did you buy it from ? Never heard of any 10 tank restriction, how would it know ? I had to richen the L screw of my 135 (similar saw) to get it to start when hot. Saws are not meant to run on low revs, tick over or flat out once started.

Hi yes I have access to a spline adjuster and I don't know where they bought it,  here's the link for the run in period I read after 10 tanks if fuel.

 

https://www.hunker.com/12384628/how-to-adjust-a-husqvarna-carburetor

 

It states the carb needs adjusting after that period to run the saw in.?

 

My 236 is great out of the box (i am confused)

 

The 135 replaced the 236 I think, anyway I will have a go at altering the carb tomorow because as it stands the 435 is pretty useless.

 

Thanks for your reply.

 

 

 

 

Posted

The saw will change its characteristics once it is run in and it will make more compression and have more power but you will probably find if you rich up the L screw, the saw will benefit from it.

Posted
34 minutes ago, spudulike said:

The saw will change its characteristics once it is run in and it will make more compression and have more power but you will probably find if you rich up the L screw, the saw will benefit from it.

Cheers, it's got some beans at high revs but yer thanks I will just alter the L screw like you and peatff said.

 

I only cut up felled trees as a novice and still finding my feet, my ppe cost more than both my saws put together.  

 

I Appreciate all the help...

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

The low speed adjustment controls the mix from idle up to around 6,000rpm and then the H speed takes over. If the saw is pretty boggy from idle to mid revs, the L speed adjustment should help if there is no issue with the saw apart from this.

  • Like 1
Posted
47 minutes ago, spudulike said:

The low speed adjustment controls the mix from idle up to around 6,000rpm and then the H speed takes over. If the saw is pretty boggy from idle to mid revs, the L speed adjustment should help if there is no issue with the saw apart from this.

Cheers well I will get logging tomorrow and have a bash a the L screw once it's warmed up.

 

Thanks again.

 

Ow happy New year.☺️when it comes lol.

 

 

Posted

Sorry but earlier I meant where did you buy the saw not the driver because their PDI is a bit lacking. First thing I did was buy a spline drive to adjust my 135 as it was a pig to restart when hot and it was running weak at the top end as well I think some places send them out the shop anyhow as long as they run for two minutes without breaking. Get it used now and check it when it's run a few tanks look at the plug to see how the mixture is doing.

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