Huztl 372 kit build

[Toad]

Evening. 

 

Got a bit bored recently so last Friday I ordered a huztl 372 'spare parts kit' with a 52mm big bore kit. Today it arrived so I've been digging through the box and investigating the contents.

 

I've been doing a lot of reading on here and a few other sites and watching videos on YouTube to get a bit of an idea of what I should do with it all. I've done a lot of work on cars and tractors in the past, but never bothered with anything 2 stroke, so this will be a bit of an adventure.

 

After doing a bit of research, I'm going to try to use as much of the parts in the kit as possible to see what happens and carry out a few modifications as I go. I've downloaded the workshop manual and have a 371 to check parts and construction against.

 

Things I need to do are;

 

Fiddle with the carb, as the choke butterfly seems sticky and the spring won't close it.

 

Clean up the cylinder - there's a fair few poor bits of casting and I understand that the ports are fairly restrictive compared to oem. I've bought a flexi extension and some tungsten carbide bits for the dremel to do this.

 

Clean and oil the crank and big end bearings well, there's a bit of swarf knocking around the bearings and I would like to see them run freely and clean.

 

I expect I'll have a load of questions which I would be grateful for any advice on. Hopefully I'll get a good selection of pictures during the build which might help others doing this or undertaking maintenance on their own saws. 

 

Here is a picture of the lovely box full of stuff...

 

Also, a picture of my first question... the seal on the pto/clutch side appears to be larger than the inside of the bearing, and the crank, and I don't expect it is going to actually seal against the crank. I understand that you need an o ring on this side to make it seal, but the gap feels a bit too big really. Is this normal, or have I got a crappy seal?

[dan494]

Join the Facebook huztl builders page, lots of info on there ? I've got the new 200t kit on route 

[huskywilson]

must be the wrong seals , some  husky saws have bigger bearings and cranks  on the PTO , the one i built had black  seals installed , on the huztl site there are different seals , someone must have installed the wrong ones on a batch possibly for some stihl or other husky 

Edited October 1, 2018 by huskywilson

[Toad]

29 minutes ago, dan494 said:

Join the Facebook huztl builders page, lots of info on there ? I've got the new 200t kit on route 

Yes, found that last week. Have posted there but had conflicting answers on questions about pistons. Hopefully will figure it all out.

 

When did you order the 200t? Mine was in the UK in 7 days and waited at the parcel force depot over the weekend.

[Toad]

31 minutes ago, huskywilson said:

must be the wrong seals , some  husky saws have bigger bearings and cranks  on the PTO , the one i built had black  seals installed , on the huztl site there are different seals , someone must have installed the wrong ones on a batch possibly for some stihl or other husky 

I thought that might well be the case. Nevermind.

[dan494]

15 minutes ago, Toad said:

Yes, found that last week. Have posted there but had conflicting answers on questions about pistons. Hopefully will figure it all out.

 

When did you order the 200t? Mine was in the UK in 7 days and waited at the parcel force depot over the weekend.

Ordered mine last weds, hopefully here by end of the week as some have arrived now. Wanna build one to see how it goes together so I can strip down and rebuild a genuine one I've got shelved with some confidence

[huskywilson]

best bet is OEM  crank seals  which are expensive , but i decided , bugger it i,ll leave it and see how it goes ,flywheel is a tad weird , the crank has a keyway and woodruff key in the kit  but the flywheel doesnt have a slot it has a tiny bump which will locare in the crank keyway but its real puny  , so i torqued it to 24ftlb  which is high but probably safer to pull on starting as its got real high compression now , i fitted a decomp blanking plug as   ditched the decomp as they will maybe fail while running  but was real hard to pull over so fitted a OEM one i had as on smaller saws i remove them so was a handy thing ,

so  after build, did a pressure and vac test on it and turned the crank around and no loss  its not had much used so far but its a ripper really BB kit  272 piston modded  by machine 40 thou off the top to 8mm in to assist the transfer timing and raise comp , base gasket delete and used 1184 , slight woods port and and several other mods did  , did get the oem o ring on clutch side and had to cut 1 coil off the brake spring as was real hard to pull on so might fracture something , anti vibe spring didnt line up well with handle so lengthened the slot a bit and as its not true flat on the base of the spring to cyl so  its out of line so spun it to correct position so its quite close , if you do it random, look from the rear  at the gaps between the fuel tank and chassis and you will see it real high on the clutch side  Maybe OEM one is better .

 the air filter is a touch loose on the carb so applied thick grease to seal it , after about 20 cookies it was clean inside , the carb was a bit of messing about to set it up  wandering about again , would surge at idle and sometime out of a cut it stalled right away so upped the idle  a bit and then it was ok then did same agin , so thought it might have been a air leak so swapped to  another carb i had from Huztl and 2 little tweeks and it was fine  no issues

check the dowel pins in the cases , one is solid and the other is hollow in location so if you fit the solid one in a dowel hole where a bolt goes , that will be a issue , also the plastic  base plate  under thecarb has to be ground/filed  out a bit as it on the throttle cable side LH looking from rear , it contacts the carb intake boot so sort out that  so clearance is done 

there is no tubes to fit in the carb body so its a bit sloppy so i made ones luckily from some thin plastic pipe i had but was thick spun it slowly on my bench grinder reduce diameter  to fit in the carb body 

spring on oil pump setting screw is crap as its designed wrong as  it sticks up so i took it off  thinking it was on wrong and messed about and it on the oil pump  but it can only fit one way so  contact  sticks up and contacts the clutch drum and as spins and unhooks it so fit an OEM  spring  to oil pump adjuster  too 

thats about all i remember now  other than there are sometimes a few more screws in bags than are for each part of build  so think they are to be fitted somewhere  but is an odd one here and there i have 4 spare screws and a clip was spare  

Edited October 1, 2018 by huskywilson

[Toad]

Awesome. Great help, thanks. It was your post which really helped push me into getting it. Where did you get your piston rings from? I think I remember you said you got caber rings? I'm going to open up the exhaust and inlet ports a bit, the transfers in the base of the cylinder and I want to tidy up some unpleasant casting marks on one of the transfer ports, also mod the muffler a little. Looking forward to getting it up and running. Going to pick up some instant gasket and get to work on it over the next few days.

[Toad]

25 minutes ago, dan494 said:

Ordered mine last weds, hopefully here by end of the week as some have arrived now. Wanna build one to see how it goes together so I can strip down and rebuild a genuine one I've got shelved with some confidence

Fingers crossed it turns up soon. Just looking through this kit makes the whole saw make more sense. 

[huskywilson]

ah forgot some random things , i got the 272 piston from Huztl but chose not to use the black chinese rings , they might be fine as they are getting better  but chose different  , so used a single caber ring from a shop in greece , dandikrop is his ebay  shop to same dealer site , you can get the husky single  52mm x1.5mm  if you have a local dealer 

the muffler is totally open inside  but is normal sized oulet  tube , so you can weld in another tube or cut a slight slice on opposite side and open it up as its loud anyway with open muffler 

a 385 muffler is open inside  too (jungle one) and has a large top exit , and will fit perfect  they are only OEM but are nice 

 

Edited October 1, 2018 by huskywilson