Tractor Mower Engine Swap

[Yournamehere]

Hey ho. As it says on the label, I'm swapping over an engine on a tractor mower both B&S one 11hp tother 13 but it's just a bit different to what I've met before so I need a bit of mind setting to rest please.

Firstly does surface rust on the magneto rim matter? It's been stood outside and being iron has heavy surface rust. Should I clean this up with fine sand/emery-paper or does that make it worse? (grit in the works) Will it 'self-clean' with use? Is the magnetism not bothered by rust so don't worry?

 

Also, I'm intrigued. Am I missing a trick? How do you chock one of these engines in order to remove (say) the fly-wheel nut?

On the old engine that suffered a catastrophic internal disassembly I was able to remove the crank-shaft pully nut because the crankase was full of garbage and locked up easy.

 

But on the new one, nothing to lock up! Normally I'd bung a load of rope down the spark-plug hole but these are L-Head? Flathead? Side-valve? what's the correct term for these? They have the plug in a small chamber offset from the piston and you can't bung em up.

In the past on a smaller tecumseh, when I've had the head cover off anyway, I've simply taken it off again, slipped in a 22mm socket, back on, tighten up, flywheel off but on this briggs thers so much heat shielding and faffing I couldn't be doing with it.

Again the old engine appeared to have a plastic ring gear (for the starter motor) and I thought this would be the same and that I couldn't sprag it; but when I took the cover off. lo! twas metal, so spragged the ring gear and the crankshaft pulley bolt slipped undone as if it was only done up yesterday; so bit of a result.

 

But, just for future reference, how DO you chock it up for taking off the flywheel nut?

 

And lastly, between the engine and the crank-shaft pully-shaft there is a bush/thrust bearing/spacer. One side is flat one side is concaved. Unfortunately it fell off and rolled away during the dismantle. Any idea which side is up?

 

Thanks in anticipation

Yourn

[htb]

Impact gun on the nut,check threading on nut.

 

or you could jam it with a piece of cloth between ring gear and starter motor,if your careful (depends on how well starter motor is attached)

[Yournamehere]

1 hour ago, htb said:

Impact gun on the nut,check threading on nut.

 

or you could jam it with a piece of cloth between ring gear and starter motor,if your careful (depends on how well starter motor is attached)

hi htb, thanks for that, but tis a field job not in a workshop and anyway don't have an impact gun cordless or otherwise.

Starter motor is flimsy! But has given me the idea of wrapping a canvas belt around the fly and overlapping it back to work on the principle of an oil filter wrench which might work

[Yournamehere]

21 hours ago, Yournamehere said:

Firstly does surface rust on the magneto rim matter?

"Experts have debunked that theory, though, saying that rust has no impact whatsoever on a magnetic field"

 

A trusted source revealed recently

[Yournamehere]

So back to the engine swap.

Donor is a Hayter Heritage.

After removing the engine I noticed this.

Loop in front goes round crank-shaft pulley.

 

All I can say is, "I'm glad I'm not replacing that drive belt".

I mean, what sick mind thought of that?

 

In other news, I can confirm rust on the fly-wheel doesn't matter*: bolted it to the chassis and jump started it. Him went chugger chugger vroom chugger!

Very Happy Days

Yourn

 

 

*Does cause f loads of thick blue smoke to belch out the zorst on start up though

 

[htb]

Quite normal that, just a ball ache to change

[Yournamehere]

20 minutes ago, htb said:

Quite normal that, just a ball ache to change

Ah! o.k. ta.

I guess you just got to hope it never needs doing huh?

To change belt remove steering column; to remove steering column remove engine.

'Sorry boss, cat, worms, vet; laters'.

 

The mended tractor -mtd- has a slightly different arrangement: the steering mech is higher up and the belt goes underneath.