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Teleporter Hydraulic Auger


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AT long last I have adapted the pto driven post hole digger to work on the front of the Teleporter

 

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It used to be mounted on the three point linkage and was very tiring and neck aching to operate as well as a lack of control for stopping, starting and pulling out of the ground. Plus there was no weight to push down a little when needed on occasion.

Manoeuvring into position and making the auger vertical was also difficult.

 

I used an old track drive motor from a JCB swing shovel which is probably past its sell by date but seems to work. It has a casing relief outlet which normally is connected to the return but I just put a length of hose on the union and stuck it in a 5 litre container. It leaked enough to fill the 5 litre container after an hours work which I presume indicated that the motor is worn. It stalls quite easily but works well if used gently. I quite like the stalling as it acts as a safety valve in case I hit something really hard.

I also like the ability to straighten the auger by twitching the steering or adjusting the boom.

I think that the auger is going a little faster than I would like but I am not too worried because of the stalling.

 

Putting all the trees and stakes and guards in the bucket is another bonus so everything is to hand. I planted thirty oak trees by myself in under an hour, all about three years old.

 

The auger is able to swing in any direction but this does not seem to affect its ability to make a vertical hole. It also allows it to swing up out of the way for transport.

 

I see in this video the fella has fixed an "Atom Splitter" to a very similar auger so I may try one of those in due course for the large logs.

 

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-K8JtgjtBM[/ame]

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AT long last I have adapted the pto driven post hole digger to work on the front of the Teleporter

 

 

 

It used to be mounted on the three point linkage and was very tiring and neck aching to operate as well as a lack of control for stopping, starting and pulling out of the ground. Plus there was no weight to push down a little when needed on occasion.

Manoeuvring into position and making the auger vertical was also difficult.

 

Makes good sense, keeping the auger vertical was always a problem with the 3 point linkage. With the steering angled and the boom out a bit juggling the forward reverse and boom to keep it vertical must be much better.

 

Why didn't you use the track motor with its reduction gear and the auger drive direct to keep everything in the same axis?

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Makes good sense, keeping the auger vertical was always a problem with the 3 point linkage. With the steering angled and the boom out a bit juggling the forward reverse and boom to keep it vertical must be much better.

 

Why didn't you use the track motor with its reduction gear and the auger drive direct to keep everything in the same axis?

 

Good question, maybe because I was not at all sure about

1. the knackeredness of the motor,

2, the power of the hydraulics on the Matbro spare valve.

3, the speed of the motor

Probably mainly because it seemed easier to fit in place of the pto shaft with just a simple collar, plus it was easy to take off and put back on the 3 point linkage mounted assembly if it did not work on the teleporter.

 

I also think it may be difficult to combine a motor straight on the auger when mounted on the bucket. There was smoke enough coming out of my ears thinking about this design!

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Yes on the GV3 on my FMV290 but not very well the way I had it rigged.

 

I bolted a 9" auger to a log and passed it up through the semi closed grapple and then gripped it, it dug in sandy soil but the rotation wasn't smooth.

 

Consider that the PTO auger has a large reduction gear so the torque is far higher than the vane motor in a rotator.

 

The piston pump from a track drive motor has good torque to start with but couple that to the 30:1t reduction gear in the hub/sprocket assembly and you have a massive torque, this and the automatic braking make these little final drives ideal for a DIY hydraulic winch.

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Yes on the GV3 on my FMV290 but not very well the way I had it rigged.

 

I bolted a 9" auger to a log and passed it up through the semi closed grapple and then gripped it, it dug in sandy soil but the rotation wasn't smooth.

 

Consider that the PTO auger has a large reduction gear so the torque is far higher than the vane motor in a rotator.

 

The piston pump from a track drive motor has good torque to start with but couple that to the 30:1t reduction gear in the hub/sprocket assembly and you have a massive torque, this and the automatic braking make these little final drives ideal for a DIY hydraulic winch.

 

Do you think my setup would have enough power to operate an Atom splitter or any large cone splitter?

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I don't know but the torque going to a pto splitter is the engine torque times the pto gear step down ratio so you could work it out to make a comparison.

 

 

The gear ratio is 3:1 so I presume 540 will end up around 180 rpm

 

But we are talking unknown torque of an unknown motor from an unknown power/flow from a Teleporter hydraulic system

 

It will have to be a case of suck it and see. The worst that can happen is that it becomes stuck fast in a large log and will not reverse out

 

In which case I will be really screwed!

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The gear ratio is 3:1 so I presume 540 will end up around 180 rpm

 

But we are talking unknown torque of an unknown motor from an unknown power/flow from a Teleporter hydraulic system

 

It will have to be a case of suck it and see. The worst that can happen is that it becomes stuck fast in a large log and will not reverse out

 

In which case I will be really screwed!

 

We need to know the engine torque of the tractor that powers the screw splitter, We can assume PTO revs of 540 will be about 2200 so multiply the engine torque by 2200/540 and then again by the 3:1 of the auger gearbox will give you the torque necessary for the screw splitter.

 

Do you know what pressure and flow you deliver to the track motor?. Then you need to count the rpm. From this we can calculate the torque at the motor shaft.

 

I doubt that it will need any more torque to reverse out if it stops but there are ways to unscrew it as long as the tip doesn't come off.

 

Just trying it is definitely faster though.

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We need to know the engine torque of the tractor that powers the screw splitter, We can assume PTO revs of 540 will be about 2200 so multiply the engine torque by 2200/540 and then again by the 3:1 of the auger gearbox will give you the torque necessary for the screw splitter.

 

Do you know what pressure and flow you deliver to the track motor?. Then you need to count the rpm. From this we can calculate the torque at the motor shaft.

 

I doubt that it will need any more torque to reverse out if it stops but there are ways to unscrew it as long as the tip doesn't come off.

 

Just trying it is definitely faster though.

 

 

Can you or anyone recommend a cone splitter that has stood the test of time.

I see some on ebay for about £150 from Poland with a couple of spare tips.

 

Screw Type Log Splitter 150 mm firewood SPLITTER CUTTER CHOPPER

 

They are about 6 inches or 150 mm in diameter or are these only suitable for hand fed machines.

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