kram

No, dont buy the german rubbish. Ms151tc would be the Stigl equivalent, louder expensive and heavier, less good. The 2511 is a great saw, but get the TES top handle version. Not enough power, in my opinion, to need a bulky heavier rear handle. I love how compact it is. Have you considered a finger chopper for the smaller work?

Do your chainsaws have finger cut prevention? Its better just to keep your hands well away from the blade. I do consider the choppers to have higher risk than a chainsaw, they get treated with more respect, very simple, they wont be getting my fingers! The greatest risk is if I was at a customers and they tried to use it whilst Im away at the van, and why I always turn off and remove the battery when I put them down. The other climber, he has used them and has a good respect for them, took a long time before he would try them. The old groundie, he has zero cares for safety, likes them for brush dragging but I cant let him use, too risky. I had to lie last time that I left at home for sharpening.

Chain tension should have minimal slack when pulled from the bar whilst still moving freely when its pushed round, it shouldnt take any effort. If too tight it will heat up and stretch. More important that it moves free than the slack. Whilst your learning, check it often. If the chain has got hot, let it cool down before you set it, as it will shrink as it cools. Hot likely means it is blunt. Some saws need the cover tightend before checking -other saws you can do it while its loose enough for adjusting. New chains may need adjustment after a few cuts.

Have a photo? Your describing the starter pawls, which could also be called a one way clutch or free wheel, but you dont say which is broken? Google tells me this mower has a LH and RH freewheels, I dont know if that is something seperate to the starter mechanism Etesia 5733 RH Free Wheel - Groundcare Essentials WWW.GROUNDCAREESSENTIALS.COM Genuine Etesia 5733 RH Free Wheel to fit the following models :- GBA, GBE, GHB, PBTS, PHCT, PHTB, PHTS, PKCTM, PKTB, PRO51B, PRO51C... Etesia 5734 LH Free Wheel - Groundcare Essentials WWW.GROUNDCAREESSENTIALS.COM Genuine Etesia 5734 LH Free Wheel to fit the following models :- GBA, GBE, GHB, PBTS, PHCT, PHTB, PHTS, PKCTM, PKTB, PRO51B, PRO51C...

The knut prussik is still winning then? Was it hitting on the carabiner?

Best to know these things before you mod the muffler? So at the moment its just making extra noise, possibly running lean. I've gone the opposite way, 1/4" to 3/8" full chisel. Cuts quicker and less cutters to be sharpened. If I want more noise and power I have the 020T.

Most small top handle derived saws have the same location exhaust. Why wouldnt it be a good idea?

I forgot to mention the cutters. From the pic it looks like they have been used excessively whilst blunt and would take a lot of sharpening to get right. No problem if you know how a chain should be but a frustrating task if its your first chainsaw. It also looks like its been in the dirt, the bar nose could likely use a clean get all the dirt out of the rails, remove any burrs and grease the nose sprocket.

No offence intended but using a badly maintained saw is dangerous along with a lack of experience it may not end well. Where abouts are you? I am sure somone local could give it a quick check over and help you get the basics right. I am in Sussex if that helps. From the spec it shows as a 3/8 LP 0.43" 16" bar and chain. Could I suggest this set, its a shorter 14" bar, 4 chains. Wider gauge but you'd likely not notice the difference, its got enough power for it. I have used these and they last well enough. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09ZKKFPW6 Whatever you do, dont bother with your local shop as it will cost a lot without learning the basics, you'll be back with wallet open in a matter of minutes.

I'd rather have a little pull than a smashed saw. I'd prefer it to be nearer 100kg breaking force.

The 2511T attachement clip looks a bit on the weak side, wouldnt hold 20kg? I can see the plastic fatiguing and failing as the saw gets old.

The Makita compatable choppers are more powerful and bigger capacity than the Stihl. Using them is quite simple, press the trigger and turn off whilst the trigger is held. Turn them off when ever you stop cutting. Or this can happen https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/135590-electric-finger-chopper/#findComment-2078393

Milling is hard on saws. If buying it for that specific purpose I'd be getting an 880/881 size, the new price is not much different near £2k. I dont know how the used prices compare, £1k used or more for a decent one? I've not used a 660, I have used a 500i which is near enough the same spec, not for milling, but it wants as much power as you can get. I would get a cheapy Farmertec or two. My G372XP works quite well (I didnt buy it for milling but have done a bit). £600 for a new G888 with bar, chain etc.. the G660 clones are about £300. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204816296107 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205154078035 I am very tempted to get a G888 myself however Im only doing occasional domestics and not very often we remove a larger tree. So it would likely take up space and rarely get any use. A ripping chain is for milling along the end grain, its slow and dusty. When I want to mill a log I use a standard chain from the side of the log, "noodling", called as it makes long noodle like chips, instead of dust. Much quicker and satisfying, easier cleanup, easier on the saw but may take more skill to get a straight cut.

An ash that I didnt want to climb! A dead stem on the left, the one behind looked ok but had no strength when moved. Big wounds on this side. I know ash can be brittle. I didnt go much past the 3 extension ladder, I swapped to the easy connifers and let the experienced guy do the ash.. if it didnt have the wounds or was a different species, I'd have no problem with it.. irrational?

"Those that can, do. Those that cant, teach" Did it go well?🙂