kram

Looking at an oak today, noticed this fungi on a buttress root. When touched, there were visible white spores released. Looks like they are well past their best, is it possible to identify them from the photo? Photo of the whole tree, its the closer one.

Pipe has been shortened but a 12oz does not fit well in 38mm pipe, it really wants to be the less common 42mm pipe. Instead I'm 3d printing the tube. Looking at a tree tomorrow and hopefully suitable to test it out. hmm?

This 20v 400w? 20 V pruning saw | Kress WWW.KRESS.COM The Kress 20 V pruning saw is designed for effortless control in tight spaces. Its ultra-compact, lightweight build makes it ideal for trimming branches... I imagine then its similar to the £60 20v Fakita, which I quite like too.

Interesting, slightly lighter than the Makita, slightly less power but near enough the same. Tool on its own is cheaper at £159. Might go well with a DCS3500T but what for the other tool?

Air launcher has arrived. I went for the significantly lighter alu tanked version which cost a bit more. I'll get a plastic pipe to make the barrel tomorrow, thread is 1.5" bsp, plumbing shop will have it.

Just to repeat if you were to jump it from a other power source, it does not need or want to be 36v and not directly to another battery. Once its about 20-30v total, the Stihl charger shouldnt have anything to complain about, it will be within the normal range of a discharged battery. It should be done in a way thats current limited. You can get cheap current limiting boards off amazon for nearly nothing. You should be able to find something on how to set it up on YT. You want to start with only 100miliAmps until it gets to 20v or so then let the proper Stihl charger finish it off. 18v battery or mains power supply -> limiter board -> dead battery.

Interesting, what would these look like in 3 or 5 years when its grown a bit?

Yes TTI own them but Milwaukee is based in the US, even if most of the tools are contracted out to China.

Dremmel is shite, made by Bosch. Much better to get the Milwaukee M12BLROT. It is a very rare thing when I buy or recommend anything American, but in this case they have got it right. Annoyingly now that I have the M12 platform, I cant see anything else worth getting.

The above statue thing is a bit shit, this one works better. https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/imageTo3d?from=makerlab Anyway thought I'd test it on a 2511 exhaust cover. It didnt like a white background so found a pic of a dirty used one off ebay. Very unlikely it will be correct but Im printing it anyway. I can then scale and adjust to fit. Edit, the result The size is quite far off, 20% and more in depth. I'll try again using a video instead of single image, maybe something simpler.

Ah not all cars had seatbelts, tho most will have been retrofitted if they are still on the road, except vintage cars.. Where as near enough every car has a 5v1 threaded schrader valve, except some fancy airless run flat tyres.

Theres likely a good number 8V1-32 and 5V1-36 is the most visible and a right arse if one wants to get a tap or die to make a custom compatable part, taps and dies are not generally available although can get them from china.

Old Makita LXT's were designed with three fusable links in the BMS, if you fully discharged them and tried on a normal charger, each attempt it would blow a link, three goes and done. However if you recovered the cells to normal it would charge fine but they never reset. After 3 blow, you have to replace the PCB with a knockoff one which are available from aliexpress etc quite cheapily. I doubt knockoff Stihl PCB's are available. You can get knockoff makita /dewalt/milwaukee etc.. battery sets cheap, this sort of thing. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001577209628.html Anyway heres a video of a AP300 being scrapped for parts. The pcb is by the lights and sealed, you cant get at it without destroying the pack. Certainally not designed to be repaired!

I've learned, measure the bits because they are not always on size. For the small Stihl chains, no one sells a 3.2mm bit specifically for chainsaws, however a worn 4mm bit, works very well. Theres also 3.2mm bits in most diamond bit sets. I got a load of them from amazon. I did try with the fancy guides that screw on the tool but its much better free hand.

Theres equal chance its just flat. A lot of packs do not have any fuse or mosfet capable of disconnecting the packs, often connections go directly to the tabs and the BMS is only there for charging and monitoring.