kram

Tested my kit today, I'm wondering what a good result should be. All were checked after warming up, filter removed, throttle open. Using one of these Husqvarna testers https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/compression-tester-genuine-husqvarna-part-531-03-16-86.html G372XP, around 130psi. Runs ok but cyl has some marks. Hyundai blower, 140psi. 020T 145psi. McCulloch CS340 195 psi. That was a suprise, used to run great but the carb needs some adjustment. Lidl 53cc, 215 psi.

Could there be any other causes of this problem? Its a pain to turn over even with the ignition off, so perhaps I have gone down the wrong rabbit hole. Add a decompression button? A bit more testing and the recoil has broken, only retracts if you help it, but the spring is still very strong. Spring could be far too strong? I made up a bracket to delay the ignition about 6 or 7 degrees. Not had a proper test but it starts - then the recoil went..

Amazon often have it cheap, I got a couple of 3mm x100m rolls for £14 each, £22 at the moment Oregon 90200 Heavy Duty Professional Starter Rope,White,3.0 mm x 100 M : Amazon.co.uk: Garden WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Oregon 90200 Heavy Duty Professional Starter Rope,White,3.0 mm x 100 M. I also use it for other stuff, like if I want to leave an anchor point in the tree for another day, I will pull this through instead of leaving my climbing rope.

Having thought about it, my engine auger has the same issue of being a pain to start, hard pull or it hurts. Starting this combi is a real pain without the driveshaft fitted as theres not much to hold onto. I got myself a timing light. Red marks are TDC, ignore the first blue mark (strobe was set +10). With the light set at zero, the clockwise most blue mark is roughly 24 degrees. And just to help me avoid such stupidity in future I shall share my mistake. Do not start a clutched engine without the clutch bell/housing. I was lucky. A new spring is needed.. So is 24 degrees too much? Are there any variable coils I could fit for this engine? The ignition is consistant across the rev range with no change at higher rpm, although it did seem to vary a little between multiple starts. I'll confirm that tomorrow. Thanks.

Yes, as close as possible would be best for a good spark, but it was suggested that a bigger gap could retard the timing. I'm thinking a gap change wont be enough, I'll either have to adjust the coil mounting or the flywheel key. If I slot the coil mount holes that will give a couple milimetrrs adjustment.

Had a play with the 52cc chinese combi engine. I measured the gap at 0.35mm, enlarging to 0.5mm has not made a difference so I will try again to 0.8mm. I am thinking the flywheel timing, or coil mount holes will need to be modified. Someone mentioned variable advance coils, that retard below idle speed. Are there any that may fit this?

It costs very little to do a small claims against him for the damage to the trees. Stick a trail camera pointing at the trees as a first step, so you can get evidence of it. Consider a deterant in the trees - something that wont harm the tree. Perhaps some razor wire loosely fastened at key low branches for climbing. Dont wrap it around the limbs as that will girdle the branch. A few small nails should be adequate and cause minimum harm to the tree. The post the video for our entertainment. You should likely put a warning sign, so you could atleast say there was a warning if he does injure himself whilst tresspassing.

Km111R is now fixed. Adjusted the valves which were loose. One issue left is the choke butterfly shaft was not returning freely and needed a clean. I got the circlip off ok, but the return spring has sprong somewhere in the distance but it was likely broken anyway. Part I need is out of stock everywhere, 4180 122 3008. Cleaned up the corrosion and oiled the shaft so it moves free and reassembled without it.. not really needed just for the user to turn it back after starting. It starts much better and easier with the valves correctly adjusted!

If your gardens already waterlogged, it would be worse in future without the trees. Did you seek any professional advice?

I bought loads of new gloves to try, cost about 50 quid for 6 pairs, three not pictured. Orange are disapointing, loose fit and far too thick for climbing, but no problem they will get used for other stuff. Purple are thin, probably not for climbing. Yellow are promising, very warm and good fit but Im not sure I can untie knots in them, these. Polyco GIOTH/09 Grip It Oil Thermal Gloves Size 9 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Buy Polyco GIOTH/09 Grip It Oil Thermal Gloves Size 9 at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders. However I am still prefering the Mapa582 and wish they were fully coated. I have tins of tyre bead sealer and security coat (goes inside tyre after puncture repairs, stops the rubber rotting). I have painted the back and wrist of a pair. Its black when its dry. Needs a dusting of chalk after. The bead sealer is a thick gloop. The right glove had a coat of that first, as it doesnt absorb in. The left glove is just security coat, thin stuff that will soak through on first coat. It will get a second coat.. black when its set.

In the video opening shot, note the carabiner and the wear on the top corner. Appears it is binding on the black peice and preventing it releasing. That is not normal wear for a biner. It doesnt look like a huge carabiner, just a bad design on that part. Can the black piece be adjusted up as it appears to be the bottom of its travel. I'd suggest trying it with a skinny steel mallion rapid quicklink. Anything in instructions about compatable carabiners?

Same issue with my new 52cc chinese combi engine, and is mentioned in many of the amazon reviews. I'll try adjusting the coil gap. Thanks.

I did not give legal advice, I gave my opinion followed by "get professional advice".

Yes the scale is something like that. Thin gloves that are suitable to climb in will never score highly. https://www.sam-turner.co.uk/products/pfanner-stretchflex-ice-grip-gloves I used to commute everywhere by motor bike, cbr600. 25 miles in icy -12c at 120mph. Quite cold! Without the right gloves, my hands would be completely numb, and that happened more than once. The solution was a pair of Spada Enforcers, which are a very warm winter bike glove, with a pair of chinese heated liners. A bit of a pain to get the liners in but they generally stay in place. This sort of thing https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bagima-Electric-Heating-Adjuatable-Cycling/dp/B0C6TMMQB1/ Not going to fit in climbing gloves. If they get wet, you will get tingly, burning shocks on your hand. However if its just to warm up in a big pair of dry gloves it'll work. If I could get bike up the hills to the main gritted road, it was generally safe enough. I did over 100k miles on that bike. There were a few expensive brands selling proper heated gloves. I bought them all, wanted them to work, sadly all rubbish with low heat output, tried and returned them, the heat was nkt enough a d gloves worse than the Spada's. May have improved by now.. that was years ago. The chinese inserts were hot, they could burn you if on full power for any length of time. On low power they were pleasant.

On the sort freezing wet day I would use them, my hands wont be sweating! The day I needed them was around 2c with persistant light rain/sleet/snow and I was deadwooding a large oak. Due to the size I used a throwball to get my ropes up, which took ages - Im not good at it, so before I started climbing my hands were already soaked and frozen. Swapped gloves to climb but it didnt help much. I gave up and went home (was on my own that day). The next day was colder but dry. I had it all done in a few hours, no problems. My order of some more Mapa582's just arrived. 5 pairs for a tenner delivered by parcelforce. I'm sure they must be loosing money on it.