kram

Theres nothing in the drop zone, no reason not to climb it, far cheaper, I'd argue just as quick. A platform is a bit of a pain as you still need to drop the logs, no real benefit. If you wanted quicker work you'd use a crane, cut and lift each section and deal with it on the ground. (I say that having never cut from a mewp or near a crane). He , or the head tree officer needs to be sacked. How can we make this happen? Why didnt he TPO it? My experience is council officers are idiots. We once got "caught" pruning a TPO'd tree, cant remember what they identified it as ( not oak) but it was a bog standard oak, they got that very wrong. We were let off, on account of doing a decent pruning job, just the minimum with good cuts. If not we would have fought it, as they were on the wrong tree or area. Even so, its a great shame to loose the tree, but its due to council incompetence, a contractor that wanted to get paid and a land owner wanting minimal furture risk (prune managing may have cost the same as removal, plus future costs)

Most of my runnning was in my 30's. However afterwards I felt like and looked like I was in my 90's, getting worse for 3 days after when the DOMS kicks in, stairs were an issue. I hope I never get that old 😀

It appears the council stepped in before they finished and slapped a tpo on the stem. Councils do not move fast, so it must have been a multi day job 😆

I used to run a lot, while I tried and still use electrolyte tablets in my drinks, Im not convinced they did anything. Any time I tried a long, physically exhausting run (say 20km, up and down the steep mountian bike trails of the south downs), there would be cramp. Somone suggested me to try Swimming afterwards. Cramp whilst swimming and half drowning is quite unpleasant! Do you get cramp after being idle or are you physically exhausted at some point on the day it occurs? Currently I often get toe cramp when I try to click my toes.

Questions need to be asked as to why the council did not have a TPO on it, considering the rarity of ancients, and the fact they are well mapped on the ancient trees website. Some tree officers need sacking! However I dont think councils are the right people to manage valuable trees. They often do what they like anyway, particually if any money is involved. I believe ancient trees such as this should have some protection. Perhaps limiting removal but allowing crown lowering where nessasary. Naturally as they age, the roots are unable to support a large crown, the tops die back and a lower crown will grow. The old tops can be good habbitat but also become unsafe and often get pruned. Heres some before pics

Stihls home owner and cordless range are poo, best avoided. I honestly prefer my £60 Lidl parkside saw to the bosses Ms231 which doesnt cut toffee. Part of that may be he was given it used and abused, by an actual homeowner, where as the parkside I abuse but keep it sharp. Stihl are also by far the loudest of the standard unmodified tools, in my opinion. The few unmodified Echos I've used have been pleasantly quiet.

Petrol will get you a much better saw for the money. Your probably looking at a budget brand or chinese import for that price. Perhaps something like this may be good value. I have no idea what its like for power, tho somone did recommend their climbing tophandle. Einhell is another cheaper brand that seems to be acceptable. Hawksmoor 36V (2 x 18V) 40cm Brushless Cordless Chainsaw 2 x 4.0Ah | Toolstation WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM • 40cm Oregon bar and chain• Blade cutting length: 36cm• Brushless motor• Oil tank capacity:260ml• Chainsaw Oil Required (code 36322)• Automatic...

That question very much depends on what you are doing with it. A previous electric suggests to me that your a home owner that wants it for firewood duty. £200 might buy a bare tool but expect to pay a lot more for the battery and charger system. Whereas if your a professional climber, you will first need to quadruple the budget. As an example, I just bought into the Makita XGT system. Three batteries cost me £500. Split shaft power unit, hedger , polesaw and extension, plus short hedger, totals everything at £1430. I'm tempted by the climbing saw for £300 but it looks under powered. Their rear handle has a lot more power and has good reviews but I'm not convinced.

Going by the shed and fence being roughtly 2m, I make it 10m. Looks more like a washing line than phone lines to me. It would be a pain if a phone line runs through the drop zone, that would slow it down considerably.

More like 10-15 metres from the picture. Looks like a small but reasonably adequate drop zone in garden, what is surrounding it in the neighbouring gardens? You wont have much space left once its down! Any competent climber will have that down in half a day. Finding a climber directly will be cheapest. Assuming no cleanup, everything can stay where it falls, a hungry solo climber might drop it for £150-250. Much too far away for me to be interested. If you wanted a team dragging and chipping, properly cleaned up after, you could expect that to be £500-600+.

Theres quite a few clones, most are different colours so extremely obvious that they are not the real thing. This one however looks quite close to it. With different branding, could easily be fooled. Double bar studs where it should be a single stud, and the case fixings being phillips tappers rather than torx bolts, are the most obvious, also exhaust, supposedly easier to modify. I believe the enginenis similar except a different thread on the crank clutch mounting. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204984937917

Light saws have light plastics. Its a weight thing and why cheap saws weigh double. There are clones of the 2511 however yours looks genuine. First thing I would check serial number on the Echo site and register it, also weigh it. If I remember correct mine is 2.6Kg fully fueled with 10" carving bar and chain.

It is the proper way that files were intended to be set long before chainsaws existed. It has no risk to the tempering. I did a chisel edge file today (for square filed chains). Only the tip of the tang should be glowing, heat doesnt travel fast in steel. When its done, the working area of the file is cool enough to touch - if you have done it right. There will be a line/shit stain up the file from the burning steam as it escapes. If the file gets overheated by doing it wrong, the metal will change colour to a straw or blue colour. The Pferd handles I linked above, the hole is too big for round files but ok for flat. I had to glue them in Never hit a file, they are brittle. Hold the handle and tap the base of the on a hard object several times. The weight of the file, although small, will knock itself in, tight.

Somone told me about willows ability to sprout from a stick in the dirt. I took a small fresh branch and planted. It turned black and died.

Photo of the sticking links? They have no burrs? Measure the thickness with micrometer/vernier. Lighty file them, a nomal flat file is adequate. I have one to sort out, chain jumped off my 20T and a large number of drive links got mashed and need a lot of filing. Lucky I had a spare!