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kram

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  1. You say fuel screen and impulse hose, but has the fuel hose been replaced? I'd replace that and be sure theres no kinks when it moves around in the tank.
  2. If you zoom in theres another well defined face between the nose and mouth.
  3. kram

    Cambium Savers

    As I said, for isolation. Do your throw, get it down, too many limbs. Attach the heavy weight and another line, you can isolate the exact limb you want for setting a cambium saver. No risk of smashing the greenhousenor killing anyone. Throwball on its own doesnt have the weigt, often gets stuck with the friction of two lines.
  4. kram

    Cambium Savers

    Nothing wrong with my splices. It wasnt about saving money but learning and practising the skill of splicing. The rings were bought from HoneyBrothers who are one of the largest UK arb shops, or perhaps one of the most well known. They are rated, 25kN parts from what looks to be a reputable brand. Have you looked up their history? They were set up by a ex ISC guy. They are not a traditional manufacturer as they do not make anything themselves. Anyway, I'd suggest chrome is not very well suited to connectors, particually aluminium where the metal underneath is soft. The chrome tends to become rough and flake off. In this case I believe impact against the tree or between the rings has caused the roughness. Polished them smooth, problem solved, will be using them tomorrow. I have some steel Kong biners that are chromed, so AtHeight are not the only ones. It can flake off of steel too. Its just odd as, annodising is much cheaper, more durable, looks better, doesnt cause any issues when dented or wearing through.
  5. kram

    Cambium Savers

    Had a much closer look. These rings are very unusual for an aluminium product - they are chrome plated! On the other side, the rope has polished some the chrome away, the line is quite visible
  6. kram

    Cambium Savers

    Been using the first two savers quite a lot! I had a birch job recently, I was doing a few hours, every other day, I left the savers up but pulled the ropes through with throwline, they were up nearly two weeks. Inspected them after and noticed some coarse abrasion on the alu rings, no problem on the steel rings. I cant remeber what way around they hung, whether that was from dirty rope abrasion or running on the tree. Marking is not on the inside face of the rings, which makes me think tree. However the abrasion is up and down, makes me think rope. Rope is soaking in the bath to get any grit and dirt out. I'll give it a fine polish and rotate the rings so the ropes not touching it. Any ideas on the cause?
  7. Lets keep this thread for new gear. Pfanner trousers arrived. Somewhat disapponted to see they were made 06/2017 so are very old stock. Fabrics and textiles degrade, so theres a good chance the protection will not be as good as it was. I'm assuming they have been improved since then, too. What do we think? They were about 60 quid cheaper than others but had no mention of being old stock.
  8. Looks awful to climb, did you use a mewp? Nice work.
  9. @AHPP Ok then. A claimed 20 tonne or 200kN MBS on the ring, gives a 200:1 safety factor for 100kg load. The 16mm rope is rated somewhere around 40kN, half that for the knot, is 20:1 SF. However I might splice one of them in which case I can say 30:1. As I said before, I wont be doing anything big, small stuff only until I have more experience, done cs41 and get better gear.
  10. I am not after rigging anything bigger than previously until I have more experience, which would give these a very large safety factor. Say 100kg for rigging tops, are the biggest I am happy rigging at the moment. I'll be getting more gear when I've done the course. I cant seem to find dimensions listed for proper rings to compare against. These are 100mm OD, 32mm wide, 40.8mm ID, 16mm rope groove and 13.5mm wall. 360 grams. The annodising looks good and they are listed as 6061T6. Suitable for the purpose I believe. They might get more use for pulling on a N:1 rope system as I dont have suitable pulleys, these are much cheaper. Wouldnt be worried if they got smashed under a log. Soft shackles are usually HMPE/Dyneema hollow braid rope with a button knot. Very strong, very static with no stretch. Mostly used for boating/sailing. Rings were 12 quid off amazon, likely stock clearance as I got the last two. Soft shackles I got are here VEVOR Synthetic Soft Shackle, 1/2" x 22" (2 Pack) 44092 lbs (20 Ton) Breaking Strength Recovery Tow Shackles with Extra 2 Sleeves & Storage Bag for UTV, ATV, Trucks, Jeep, Off-Road Vehicles, Red : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK VEVOR Synthetic Soft Shackle, 1/2" x 22" (2 Pack) 44092 lbs (20 Ton) Breaking Strength Recovery Tow Shackles with Extra 2 Sleeves & Storage Bag for... As with anything, import gear may not be as good. HowNot2 has some testing on import dyneema and soft shackles, they were better than expected, same with most metal gear.
  11. A pair of cheapy rings to fit 16mm rope. Listing claims an unlikely 20 tonne/200kN break strength!?! They are thick and heavy, will be more than strong enough for any small bits I rig. These are intended for recovering cars, to have the rope running around the outside and rotating on a soft shackle through the middle, attached to an anchor sling. However for rigging that would likely melt the soft shackle and a chance of the rope falling out the groove, but would be fine for pulling a stem over as a 2 or 3:1 or other slow things where they might get smashed up when it lands.
  12. The threads could be stripping and a sloppy fit or likely will in future if it continues. The best repair is to helicoil the cylinder, new bolts, do it up tight with a torque wrench. I just have a cheap import set of helicoils, used a lot and all worked perfectly.
  13. With free burn holes, too. You may have more luck if you get a patch sewn over the damage.. it will catc and rip on bramble otherwise. When I started I was given a pair of medium Arbortec's that have always been far too small for me, waist fits but the legs too skiny, nearly new with a single 1p sized burn hole. Solidur have type A class 1's for £65 upto £180. Unsure from reading the listing what the difference is. I'm sure the more expensive are more comfortable and a better fit perhaps. The cheaper ones dont have a phone pocket. I couldnt see any other brand with class 3 but Solidur do them. Andrew's, mine have been durable. Perhaps not the best, but always kept my feet dry.
  14. The guy who recommended them said his were 5 years old, used every day. Condition looked like new, dirty but no rips or any sign of damage. Anyway this was the shop, showing out of stock at the moment but they appear decent and have good prices, about £60 less than elsewhere. Just a moment... BRIANTSOFRISBOROUGH.CO.UK Elsewhere I read that Oregons are also reasonably good, and I could use a pair of type A so ordered these which came today. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072C37NBL Quite impresssed, the outer material looks decent, fit well if a bit long/high on the waist. Only comment is the lack of phone or wedge pockets. Wish I got some a year ago rather than mess about repairing the Arbortec pair, they really are shite.
  15. kram

    Jokes???

    The Louvre thieves chose a getaway vehicle that France will not try to stop.

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