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Willie.

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Everything posted by Willie.

  1. Hi James - just a quick note that may help. If you can, try and get a shredder blade guard for whatever machine you go for. As opposed to running the blade with the normal strimmer guard. The reason being, the extra depth of the guard means when you "pat" down into the ground with a shredder blade, it shouldn't catch the ground and stop her dead (Which I presume is what happened in your case). I'm sure you could "adjust" the bottom of the guard with an angle grinder to get it as close to the ground as you dare - but take away the risk of clunking it down into a rock and stopping dead. Stihl one here Guards for shredder blades - For FS 360 / FS 410 / FS 460 / FS 490 WWW.STIHL.CO.UK Includes shredder blade, shredder guard and fastening components.<p> <br> <p>Guards for shredder blades, Ø 270 mm for FS 360 C-EM, FS 410 C-EM, FS 460 C-EM, FS 490...
  2. What is your opinion on the easy lift compared to the GTM Elephants trunk? Why'd you go for the Easy Lift rather than GTM at the time? Not being cheeky...I have a GTM harness which I use quite a lot. Just wondering if your's would have any advantage over it, as I could be tempted to give it a go. Thanks.
  3. Just to add to this; I don't think you need to go and buy anything else. If you have a mower than can cut 1.5acres in 15min...you have the correct mower for the job. You merely need to increase the cut frequency as other have said. Your Iseki is ideal, but to keep it short and neat, you do need to cut it at least once a week (Based on my findings in my area). If it looks like it needs cut, you're too late. Cut the grass slightly longer than you would normally. Cut it to about 2.5" or 3", that will give the clippings somewhere to fall into to hide them. Ideally only cut 1/3rd of the leaf, so that rule should dictate your mowing frequency. Vary your cut pattern. If you don't have a mulching deck, try splitting the area into sections and cut it constantly throwing the clippings inward (Onto the uncut grass). Then do the last few stripes outward to kick it back out. This means you are constantly chopping the clippings finer and finer. You may end up with a few heavy strips at the end, if so just lift the deck a click and run over them to disperse evenly. Don't do massive sections at the start til you get into the way of it and get a feel for how much you can throw in. I found this works well to leave a clean cut and clippings evenly dispersed. In wet weather - its going to tend to clump, so possibly cut more often and discharge onto uncut and live with it! Grass is 70% moisture, so in a day or so it does wilt considerably. But mowing twice a week (Possible if its only 15min) should be perfect to maintain it immaculately with no visible clippings. Going from 2ft tall to 2", not collecting, is just too much grass to hide. You really do need to get rid of it that first time. As this was a few days ago, it should be rightly wilted down by now, so you may be fit to run over it again to break up any clumps and it should break down. But ideally yeah, you'd want to get a machine, or someone, in to remove that inital volume off for you. If you're on your own and its still lying everywhere, use the Iseki and cut it in such a way to throw the clippings into a few rows, then rake into builders bags or a trailer. You may need to rake out clumps. Bit of elbow grease the first time I'm afraid. After that though, your Iseki is perfect to keep on top of it.
  4. Driveway with cattle grid. Tip site in gravel yard at bottom. Room to turn. Bark/chip into bin shown (or as close as possible). Logs/lengths tipped anywhere past the bin, towards the rear as shown. As close as possible. No intentional rubbish/litter/plastics or knotweed in with chip please!!

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