carbs for arbs

Thanks @Woodworks - that's very helpful

Well, the Amazon MM I got (link in first post) has started conking out already, so think I'll be sending that back and trying something else. I have been wondering whether a table exists that shows different species of wood and what adjustments to make to the reading for what species is being tested. Does anyone know of such a table? I guess it would be quite useless if you don't know what type of wood the meter is set-up/calibrated to in the first place, but it would be interesting to see nonetheless... @difflock - the only GEM meter I found was for testing grain and cost around a grand!

Funnily enough, I was reading an article earlier which said exactly this. Made so much sense and seemed obvious once I'd read it, but I'd never thought of it like that... I guess there is sacrificial and sacrificial though, and in the case of pointing it is quite a long terms sacrifice! We're not actually pointing though, just filling a few gaps, and the main reason - which may or may not seem daft - is to stop the heat going into the gaps (would prefer it to come into the room!). Thanks Yes, they're on our radar for several potential jobs, like when we do the full repointing, and also if we have to lime externally once the concrete render comes off. But because this is such a small job, and won't be seen, I'm not sure if that's necessary tbh. So long as a standard mortar will handle the heat and not fall out after a few weeks, then we're good with that; although still not sure what mix to use, what sand, whether to use plasticiser, etc. Thanks for the post

Thanks for replying @slim reaper You must have been well chuffed uncovering all of that. We really enjoyed uncovering our fireplace, and look forward to removing the rest of the plaster. Aside from that and some beautiful old floorboards that we beneath carpet tiles (!!) there's not so much discovering to be done here. Very exciting though. @Peasgood Aside from the thin upright gap - which is small and minimal - the others will all be hidden by the woodburner, so looks aren't so important... Just want to make sure we get it right so that it sets and is functional. And still not totally sure whether to use sharp or soft sand, plasterciser or no plasterciser, ready mix, etc. For the actual pointing of the whole wall we'll definitely be using lime, but for these repairs we just need a quick, easy, strong fix. Cheers

What a gorgeous looking room. I love it! We have a near identical layout with the window and the recessed wall beneath. Ours is still plastered, but seeing your has made me feel even more that I can't wait to get the walls back to original stone. Looks great. In the first photo, are they flagstones? Can't quite make it out... As for the lime, the stove is going in soon so I don't think we can use that. For the rest of the room though I'll definitely look into it. We're not far from Brecon either. I've not heard that expression before and google isn't helping much either! Do you mean just slap anything in them? I can't work out if the ready made mortars in tubs are literally just cement and sand mixed, or if there's more to it?! If instead we mix our own... - What's the best ratio? - What type of sand? - Do I need to use a plasticiser or any additives? Also, would it be best to ram bits of stone or similar into the gaps so that they're not as deep? Many thanks, you've all been a great help

Wet basis, no less

But only if the firewood is less than 20%....

Hahaha! Burn them at the stake!

Some fantastic replies in here, so thanks to all. And big thanks to @openspaceman for addressing my musings one by one. There's some other things I've been thinking which I'll write up when back from the night dog walk. But aside from saying thanks, I was going to add that we don't have a microwave and I'm not sure I'll be allowed to cook a log in our newish range cooker for 24 hours! Back soon

I've been reading the other threads on this forum RE MC and meters, as linked above. They're very helpful *thumbs up* Interestingly, having been in touch with someone at Brennenstuhl he seems to think their meter measures on a Wet Basis. But then his explanations seem rather confused and without wanting to sound like an arse, I'm not sure he knows the difference between WWB and DWB and is quite muddled as a result! Likewise the Amazon answers; some of them miss the point completely. But do you think it is safe to say that that meter is definitely dry basis? I've also been chatting with someone at StovesOnline, who - contrary to the above - totally gets it. In fact, it was the StovesOnline page for their meter that put me onto this whole topic in the first place. The meter they sell is one of the (or maybe just "the") only ones that explains the difference, explains what their meter is, and tells you why it matters: https://www.stovesonline.co.uk/firewood-moisture-meter.html So credit to him/them I must say. I have been thinking though. If part of the calculation is based on the wood weight, how does the meter determine this? Is it because wood has a consistent weight? And if so, is that why some meters allow you to select what type of wood you are measuring, so it can adjust the weight accordingly? Or is there more to it than that? Not sure if this is a case of 2+2=7, or if I have fumbled way my towards understanding something! Cheers

There are four main gaps in all, I'll post a pic of each. Thanks a million for taking the time

Hi @slim reaper I've been doing some reading and it seems lime is indeed the best option. However, the trouble we have is that the stove will hopefully be going in in a couple of weeks and doesn't lime take a lot longer to properly dry? Also, looking at it again this morning it really is more a case of gap filling in our case as opposed to pointing. Many thanks

Sorry to take this a bit further off topic... But there are some gaps between the bricks, some of them quite deep. We want to patch them up before the stove is installed. Does anyone know if this would do the trick: https://www.screwfix.com/p/cementone-general-purpose-mortar-grey-5kg/36857 Or do we need to look for something that is more heat resistant? That being said, I guess we don't know what has been used to point the rest of the bricks anyhow... EDIT - reading through the questions on Screwfix, I don't think it would be suitable due to heat and also the depth of the holes. Not certain though. So I guess I should ask now more generally what folk might recommend? Cheers

I hadn't noticed that, but I see what you mean... I think I was distracted by the overloaded sockets and the telephone. I'm always making a mad rush to get to mine before it rings off, but I think I'd take a slower approach to answering that one!

@pancakedan - thanks for sharing, but it's only the bottom we want to paint. We like the rest of it as it is. The stove has no feet and so will be in direct contact with the hearth; although it does have an ashpan section so there is a gap between the fire bed and the stove bottom. @neiln - yes, there's just enough clearance for the stove top, so all's ok. Thanks for pointing it out though. Regs aside, I think low and slight are with a capital L and S respectively! The wood is almost half a meter from the stove top, and will be a fair distance from the flue as well. I'm not sure at what temperature wood combusts, but I really, rally can't see it getting that hot...

The stove or the flue?

Good thoughts @Ratman and thanks for sharing them. Yes, we love the history, and whilst it's not your typical inglenook and I couldn't see it adorning the front page of Country Living magazine, we've grown to like it all the more for it We have thought of laying a flag... But a few things: a) the stove is quite wide so once in you won't see much of the bottom, b) time is of the essence as it will (hopefully) be going in in a couple of weeks or so, and we don't move all that quickly (plus have other things to prep), c) more height would bring it closer to the piece of wood in the wall. RE PVA, how would that be with the heat? And without using that - or anything else - what do you reckon might happen to the sides? Cheers

Well spotted! And yes, certainly been there a while! Original do you think? It's actually quite high up so it's fine for the stove, and we can get round the flue situation using twin wall... Cheers

Haha - good thinking! Maths was never my strong point. It will be interesting to hear what the overall flue length is when the OP returns...

Thanks for the quick replies! @Stere Yes, it's an oven, but only there for aesthetics; it doesn't have a function. We would very much like to open it up to a larger fireplace but the surveyor warned us about making any changes, and since then a structural engineer had a quick look when quoting for other work and said pretty much the same. Their thinking was that it has been monkeyed around with too many time over the years (centuries?) and further adaptations could be a costly can of worms. I know it's a bit unusual, and some might find it ugly as is, but I've actually really grown to like it as it is now. And I could do without the headache (and spending). @Peasgood and @Dan Maynard - No, it the hinge won't be going anywhere! I love it and spent half an hour or so working back the thick black gloss and getting it to the patina you see in the photos. I'd prefer to keep the black on the wall too, so I'm pleased to hear of your experience Dan. I just didn't want to stink the house out, release a tonne of nasty off-gases and kill us, or somehow get it to combust and burn the house down. If none of that is likely then it stays. The hearth the stove will stand on looks really quite rough though. It's a mixture of grey chipped concrete and maroon paint. So would be nice to do a little something with that if I can find a suitable paint. In terms of character and history, I'd ***love*** to know how it looked originally. That's a bit off topic I guess, but interesting nonetheless. I wonder at what point it was an open fire?? Definitely AFTER some of the adaptations because the old bit of mantelpiece - and above - are black too. Yet the back and other side aren't. I should think it has changed a few times. I'd also love to know when the high mantle was added. For those interested, this is what it looked like when we moved in. Excuse the mess!

Hi all I'll be having a wood stove fitted in a couple of weeks or so (actually, it's a multi fuel). It's going into a fireplace recess, and I've got a couple of things I'm not sure which way to go on... 1. The constructional "hearth" in the recess could do with a lick of paint. Any suggestions as to what paint would be best to use? The fitter said emulsion should be ok, but a little googling seems to suggest emulsion isn't so great with high temps. I should add we are having a Woodwarm Fireview with no legs. So the ashpan section of the stove is in direct contact, although I won't really need to paint directly beneath the stove; just the visible parts to the side and front... 2. One of the side walls is covered in "black stuff". I'm happy with the aesthetic; in fact I kinda like it. But could it potentially cause any problems? If so, I'm thinking best to remove it now... Photos below. Cheers

Super advice - thanks. And glad to hear that spares are no issue. I love the idea of servicing it and cleaning it up myself. With around 3 acres to look after I'll be having a few 2-stroke and petrol machines, and the costs would soon start to mount up if I have to get someone else to take care of it for me. I've not really done similar, so it will be a steep learning curve. And hopefully an enjoyable one; although I should probably get a swear box ready! Cheers

Well that's a heart warming, faith-in-humans restoring, start to the week! Thanks so much for the replies and especially @gobbypunk for the kindest of offers. Unfortunately I'm in South West Wales / Brecon Beacons. Unfortunate only in so much as it isn't close by; other than that it's lovely here Judging by your name, maybe we could have blasted out some Dead Kennedys while tinkering, but it wasn't to be! Thanks for all the other advice too. It had fuel in it when it came my way and for a while after too. That was probably in there for quite some time. It has been drained since though and is empty now, but I know long term fuel in storage can harm machines. OK, I'll get some Aspen (I've been umming and arring as to whether I should use that in my strimmer), check how to start the chainsaw (what position everything has to be in - I'm that much of a newbie) and then take it from there. I'll call around local shops too. There's one nearby which I took the strimmer to when I inherited that at the same time. They serviced it for £50 odd, only for it to start misbehaving again shortly thereafter. I took it back in and was told it needed a new carb fitted. Would have been handy to have known that from the start, as after the fit I'd spent over £100 and it still wasn't running great. That's what got me to thinking about doing things the right way round with this machine. Thanks again all and have a great week. PS - location updated

Hi all I'm new to chainsaws and chainsawing. In fact, I have't started yet. But in a couple of months or so we've got someone coming to take down some roadside ash trees, and he's allowing me to play apprentice. So I've bought all the safety gear and now need to decide about a chainsaw. I inherited a Husqvarna 350 (2007). I've no idea when it was last used. I've had it over 2 years and never started it, so at least that long and possibly a whole lot more. Being new to all this, I don't want to do anything with it until I know it's safe. So I'm hoping to find someone who can give it a quick look over to see if it just needs a service, or if it will need more. I guess I'm jumping the gun by asking about it as a lot will depend on it's condition. But I wanted to get some initial ideas as to whether people would aim to get it up and running nicely, or to put the money I'd spend on that toward a new chainsaw. Something to bear in mind is Husqvarna said some of the spares may now be obsolete; although he didn't seem certain about this. From the little I've read so far, people seem to rate it as a very decent homeowner chainsaw. If I were to replace, what new unit would be of similar quality? All and any thoughts most appreciated. Cheers

Hi I'm no expert. But we're soon having a stove fitted and so I've been reading a lot about the subject. I totally agree with @openspaceman RE combustibles. An uninsulated flue needs to be three times it's diameter away from any combustible, and perhaps that's why they've done it that way? It's more normal to see an uninsulated flue for a longer run, going into an insulated flue as it gets close to the ceiling. That allows it to pass through the ceiling, wood in the ceiling, etc. safely. On the one hand you lose heat output from the flue, but on the other you gain a flue that heats up quicker and stays nice and hot, which in turn improves draw and stove efficiency. A lot of people insulate their flue liners (in chimneys) for this very reason. What is more concerning though is the overall length of flue. Are you saying the whole thing from stove top to cowl is 6.5 foot? If so that sounds well too short. 4m (or 4.5m; can't remember which) is regarded as a minimum, and I **think** that's in the regs. So unless there's something specific about your stove that allows for a shorter flue (not something I've come across), then that's definitely something to look into. If I've misunderstood you, I'll go grab my coat! Cheers