carbs for arbs

That'll learn me; posting late on a Friday night!

Hi I've pretty much decided to do all my firewood processing with hand tools. I'm just processing wood for burning in the house, not for selling. I'm reading a lot about Silkys and will no doubt be back with questions about those But I'm also keen to try and get an old fashioned cross cut saw or two. I've no idea what to look out for though, and whether most available locally will be nothing more that "above-the-fire-place" ornaments. Here's some links to some I have my eye on: Saw 1 – Google Drive DRIVE.GOOGLE.COM Saw 2 – Google Drive DRIVE.GOOGLE.COM Saw 3 – Google Drive DRIVE.GOOGLE.COM Is it impossible to tell from photos/videos what they are like? Any pointers for what I should be looking out for as a novice? I also want to learn how to sharpen my own saws - including my Silkys when I have a lot more experience - so would saws like these be a good place to start practising? Many thanks PS - at this stage I don't want convincing that I should get a chainsaw

That's great @Mark J - thanks for sharing your thoughts. The timber is very sound, and to my very untrained eye seems absolutely fine. In fact, in spite of what people say about burning ash green, I think a few months seasoning will do it good. But then I'm pretty green too!

Hi all Recently had around 20 roadside ash trees taken down due to dieback. I've been reading about uses for the wood, and with a wood stove in the house (with possibly another one or two to come), firewood is an obvious choice. But we will also be doing a lot of work in the garden - fencing, shelters, benches, etc. So I'm wondering....: 1. Can it be used for firewood and will it burn as well as undiseased ash? 2. Is ash generally any good for fencing, shelters, benches, etc.? Or are there better woods for that kind of thing? Again, will it be worse because of the disease? 3. Does the “rot” continue to have an affect after felling? IE – will the wood continue to deteriorate on account of the dieback even once cut down? 4. If it was still reasonably healthy when felled – rather than badly affected - will that help? I can take some photos when I'm back home showing the tops of the stumps; some of which look like they may not have been affected at all Any advice most welcomed Many thanks

Hmm, maybe I'm putting words in his mouth when I say "happy". I meant more that he did it, and was understanding about the situation. Not sure how happily though. I felt bad, but the wood was no use to me unseasoned...

I promised an update, so here it is.... Having been more careful with the MM I stopped getting the super high readings but did continuously get readings around the 40% mark. As mentioned previously, freshly felled ash was reading around 50%, and continued to, so I think it had a high bias. But even being generous that would have made the bought wood 30%+ which isn't ideal. The seller was good about it and happy to collect/refund, so all well in the end. Thanks again for the replies

Hey all Many thanks for all the replies. Very helpful stuff. I'll try to address any points raised and answer any questions. Firstly I should say that perhaps I need to be more consistent with my meter in terms of how I insert the pins. I need to especially check that they are both in a reasonable amount, rather than one in deep and the other only just in. Having checked the meter just now around the house on internal timber (which is flat and therefore easier to measure consistently), it seems to be working well. So tomorrow I'll re-measure the firewood. I'm pretty certain it will still be high - certainly higher than 25% - but maybe the 80% readings were false. We'll see. Also, we've plenty of freshly felled ash and that's showing as 45-50%, so if the meter has a bias it would seem to be toward the wetter side. Could though just be the inaccuracy increasing as it gets to the higher levels. The meter is new so no plans to get another. In fact, once we're a season or two in and have a good system in place I won't be need one at all. Just for these early days and for times like this. That being said, it might be useful when it comes to comparing different drying methods, shelters etc. I could just season the wood I bought for next year, but that's not what I bought it for. I have tonnes of my own wood which will be ready to burn next year and for many years thereafter. What I wanted/needed was some very well seasoned logs to be using right now, which is why I bought it (for testing the new wood stove). If it ain't that, it ain't no use to me. But I didn't want to complain if it is within what's acceptable. I have brought a few logs into the house to test them in a couple of days, and to see how much of it is just surface dampness. Between that and using the meter more attentively, I'll hopefully have a better idea of how the logs are. I'll come back with my findings and have a word with the supplier if it's not looking good. As someone else mentioned, I split it just so that I could take a reading from a "fresh" face rather than one that has been exposed. On the contrary, the supplier was more expensive than others, and has a good reputation. We were happy to pay more as it was important that we got what we needed. @Steven P - I'm starting to wonder the same and that we're getting the not so well seasoned/dry dregs from a supplier who is usually good but has limited stock due to covid/time of year. Also, thanks for the bubbles idea; I watched a video showing that last night and will give it a go this evening. Not what I imagined I'd be doing of an evening when I was younger! Cheers

Hi all I hadn't planned on buying any wood, as we've got plenty. But having only just had a wood stove installed, and spending evenings assessing its performance, I wanted to be 100% sure I was burning decent seasoned wood. So I bought a load and it was delivered today. Some of the logs are a bit wet and they don't look particularly grey and cracked on the whole. I'm inexperienced, and haven't bought before, so it's hard to say whether these are not seasoned well, or seasoned but wet from being left out. Either way, is it normal to receive wood that's damp / wet? I've got a cheap moisture meter but not sure how helpful it's being. One log can sometimes vary wildly when stabbed in a couple of different spots. But for the record, some of the wood is reading early 20s, whilst others were as high as 80. And that was after splitting! I know there's not much to go on but any thoughts? Cheers

Well, I'm definitely not coeliac (not that you can hold it against people who are - it's not like they choose to be!) I've smoked on and off all my life. I'm in the lucky position of not getting particularly addicted, so I can smoke when in the mood or the occasion is right, then go months without. So one out of three ain't so bad.

Curious as to why you recommend it should be cut to lengths under 12"? Ta

Quick reply to say we found a bit of an unlikely solution for darkening / staining the hearth.... Coffee! We used it on some of the lighter bits of mortar too and are really pleased with how it's come out. Free, no chemicals, and a couple of days buzzing my tits off from the extra caffeine

Great replies - thank you very much. I'm pleased to hear it should be good for a fair few years (if covered, etc.) @Mrblue5000 and @Dan Maynard - I don't suppose you have any photos of what you've done/what you have in mind? Actually, it would be great to see any photos of people's rough and ready shelters. We'll be building posher wood shelters nearer the house at a later date, and I'll no doubt be back asking about that when the time comes. For now though if anyone wants to share their rougher efforts I'd love to see them. Cheers

Hi Thanks for all the replies... More than I expected! Do I **need** wellies? I guess not totally, but we do have a stream that runs the length of the garden and I do find myself in it from time to time sawing fallen branches. The instructions state: "The footwear should be visually assessed for suitability after 5 years of storage". When I quizzed the makers they said that the issue would (could?) be the rubber deteriorating. I replied that I can visually inspect the rubber to tell if it's ok, but they insisted that they could not guarantee the safety of them after 5 years storage. It felt like arse covering to me tbh, which is why I thought I'd asked for more practical thoughts here. @Wonky - I'm not quite sure what to say about that animated picture! The reason I bought them, apart from the stream (and generally/usually wet garden) was: - Price. They were £25 in the end. - I'm a vegan. I'd buy leather boots if I absolutely had to and there weren't alternatives, but there were, so.... Leather style boots tend to be leather, or at least when I looked I wasn't finding synthetic ones - Frequency of use... I've got a load of felled ash trees I need to process. Once that's done, I'll only be using the chainsaw on rare occasions. It's all just personal use. I'm loving my new bowsaw and I'm even thinking of getting a crosscut saw, which would mean even less chainsaw use. If I was planning to use it more, or work in the trade, then I'd have definitely looked to spend more on something better and more comfortable. Thanks again for all the contributions

Hi Bit of an unfair question I guess, but I thought I'd see what you guys with experience think nonetheless.... I'm hoping to have my first proper go with a chainsaw soon and so I've been buying in the PPE I need. I bought a pair of chainsaw wellingtons which I did not realise until after buying are around 10 years old (i.e. 10 years since they were manufactured). Apparently they should be discarded after 5 years from the date of manufacture. They are definitely new / unused and I imagine have been sat in the original box in a warehouse all this time. Would you still follow the manufacturers' guidance and not use them, or do you think they'd be ok? Many thanks

I think the write up is clear and covers everything perfectly. Good work That's the only bit I'm not certain about. I thought I had read that the law (or official guidance) of 20% definitely is wet basis. But I can't find that now and maybe I remembered it wrong, so take what I say with a pinch of salt! Cheers

Hi all Had around 20-30 poor roadside ash taken down this week But every cloud and all that = more firewood In fact, I think we'll have enough to last quite a few years. Who knows, maybe even a decade+.... We'll do our best to get it all off the ground and under cover; even if just covered with tarps for now. But aside form that, does anyone have tips as to how best process it for long term storage? Instinct tells me to keep in long lengths and to not split it, but that's just guess work. So any knowledgeable views would be helpful. I'm also interested in whether people think it's even possible for it to last many years without rotting / decaying. It's very wet where we live! Cheers

That's all good to hear, although after the initial tests I think I would still feel more comfortable getting it checked over and/or serviced by someone who knows what they're doing (i.e. not me!) Sorry, I should have added that I removed that!

My apologies... Things got in the way! I've built a makeshift wood shelter and processed a whole load of wood which is now sitting nicely in it. All using my bow saw. But with 20 odd ash trees coming down soon it's got me to thinking about the chainsaw again and so here I am. I've not had a chance to get Aspen yet so I haven't started it. But I have taken some photos this morning. No idea whether photos are helpful but didn't think they'd hurt. If anyone in Carmarthenshire / Llandeilo area is interested in taking a look at the chainsaw and/or giving a few starter tips in using it for processing firewood, then beer tokens or return favours await Cheers

@trigger_andy - yes, I think you're right, as bizarre and daft as it sounds!

That's good to hear. I note other stoves like Clearview have a maximum of 350C. Even the small 4kW Woodwarm (the Foxfire) states a maximum of 350C. I guess there's a lot more to it than just stats, and I've learnt also how a lot more heat radiates from the glass; of which the Fireview has a nice large panel (someone also pointed out that its no accident that the new EcoDesign stoves have large windows). But even so, 230C just seemed low comparatively. And like I said above, even the thermometers show optimum burn as up to 300C. Speaking of thermometers, both are available. The Clearview thermometer is for the stove itself and is to be placed just above the door. The Woodwarm thermometer has dual readings; one for the stove and the other for the flue. And I've seen others that are designed/calibrated for the stove body... Many thanks for all the great replies.

As I understand it (someone correct me if I'm wrong), the building trade uses dry basis. And almost all moisture meters measure on a dry basis. Some great replies in here, thanks everyone.

Hi First up a confession - I have asked this on other forums... But I'd be interested in some more opinions on the matter and there seems to be a lot of knowledgeable folk 'round here I'm curious as to what temperature the body of your stoves get to (anyone use a thermometer on the stove itself?). And/Or - if you've read the manual that came with it - what the manufacturer species as the maximum? The reason I ask is because we've narrowed our search down to the Woodwarm Fireview. I was reading through the manual online and it says the maximum stove body temp is 230C. That seems quite low to me. A quick glance at some of the stove thermometers out there and I see they show an optimum burn range. One has this at 150-300C, another at 200-350C. The Woodwarm made thermometer shows up to 300C as optimum! For the record, the manual I was reading refers to the whole range of Fireviews, which has models up to 20kW. So the 230C max. applies to them all. And the manual goes on to say "...avoid continuous running at the maximum..." Does anyone have any thoughts as to whether a maximum 230C body temperature is low and whether that will affect performance? I appreciate a lot goes into the design of wood stoves and there's a lot more to them than the statistics. And I've also read many glowing reports on Woodwarm; often mentioned in the same breath as Clearview. Nevertheless, this surprised me. Ta

Hi As per the post in my other thread, I thought best to start a new thread for this rather than bury it in that one. I can't remember exactly where I read it - might have even been within this forum - but I think more than once temperature has come up as something to consider when measuring moisture content. In fact, I'm sure I read that this can cause far more variance than wood species selection. I've had to send the first meter I bought back as it stopped working properly. But when I get a replacement, I'll have a play about with measuring the same log outdoors and indoors and seeing how much of a difference it makes, then report back. I the meantime though I wondered if anyone here has found that temperature makes a big difference in readings, and/or has any thoughts on whetehr logs should be measured outdoors, indoors, etc.? Cheers

I'm curious to hear people's thoughts on how much temperature plays a part, but I'm going to start a new thread on that otherwise it might get a bit buried in here and would need four pages of reading for anyone to get to it! Hope that's within forum etiquette... Cheers

Thanks @Woodworks - that's very helpful