Witterings

I suddenly noticed our Silver Birch's leaves were turning brown about 10 days ago and our neighbours isn't and wondered if it's not well. I've attached a few pics of ours and also the neighbour's which are called neighbour 1 & 2 if anyone could comment would be appreciated!

Thank you ?

And a few more please ... I've included a few pics of what I believe are the stumps as well in case it helps.

Cheers fro all the comments ....if it's Lime it's not a great burner and in terms of identifying trees it's mainly so I can pick out a few of the decent burning ones like Ask, oak, Elm etc and the just avoid the rest but totally get it probably is something learnt over time.

Anyone have any ideas what the main bigger ones in the pics are??? Also does anybody know of any decent websites that help you learn to identify them myself??

Decided to build my own over the weekend so herewith a couple of pics of the finished job.

Just in case anybody happens to be searching and stumbles across this thread I bought the pferd and also got hold of some spare standard files in both 4mm which is the same as the pferd I ordered but also in 4.5mm to see if they fit. The 4mm were absolutely fine but the 4.5mm wouldn't fit as too wide so they obviously make the hole size different for each size they sell as opposed to having one main body and just putting different size files in them. Again thanks for everyone's help!!

Think I'm probably going to go for either the Pferd or maybe an original Stihl one ... does anybody know if they're exactly the same and take the exact same same size / fit replacement files etc. Also can you use generic chainsaw files or are they made specifically for them like say these ones Chainsaw Chain Sharpening File 5/32"/ 4.0mm / 3/8" Picco or 1/4" Pitch Each - Genuine Stihl - OEM No. 56057724006 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Chainsaw File 5/32 and if you buy the 4mm body can you just swap out the files and drop a 4.8mm one in or would you need a 2nd body that'd have holes a specific size??? Finding it interesting .... there's an awful lot to learn and take on board when you 1st start looking into it ? ?

Most saws of the above size seem to use a Oregon 91PX chain which is 4mm file size and compatible with the Stihl 2 in 1 easy file but this uses a 90PX which use a 4.5mm file ... but the easyfile only comes in 4.8mm as teh next smallest size but I'm guessing that's too big??? Ideally I'd like to just use 1 file for all the saws I have and it'd be cheaper to buy a new chain than a 2nd easy file as I'm guessing the generic 4.5mm files won't fit in an easy file either?? Someone suggested that the Stihl Pico Micro Mini has the narrower gauge and could be an alternative ... is there any risk that could do any damage to the saw as they may chosen the specific chain to lessen any strain on an electric as opposed to petrol powered motor ???? Stihl Picco Micro Mini 3 3/8" x .043" (1.1mm) WWW.CHAINSDIRECT.CO.UK <p><span style="font-size: 14pt;">STIHL Picco Micro Mini Chainsaw Chain - 3/8" x .043" (1.1mm)</span></p> <p> </p> <p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size:... If anybody can help with any of the above it'd be much appreciated!

I've got a bit of a covered side way which is just that cheap corrugated plastic roof and keep a lot of my logs under there but am about to get a bigger supply of unseasoned wood and am looking for a storage solution and there's not enough space for both under there. If it's chopped and stacked in the open air, in the summer it'll get direct sunlight but if it rains it'll also get wet ... will it still "season" and if I move it to under cover 4 weeks before it's used .... although probably in the winter at that stage or does it need to be kept dry from start to finish. I guess what I'm asking is does the seasoning dry out the center of the wood and is rainwater just on the surface??? Reason I ask I think these designs are absolutely brilliant and cheap as chips but they don't have a roof https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/AUnfe_W7b7dSA5tAhVhQO8N_P2h7ayCABt5Y0RG0Bunx7EaejZK8ux8/ An unbiased review of Ted’s Woodworking. The truth may shock you (With images) | Outdoor firewood rack, Firewood storage, Firewood shed WWW.PINTEREST.CO.UK Jun 9, 2019 - Much has been said about Ted's woodworking. Some good and some bad but in my opinion I can't really find fault with Ted's Woodworking.

Cheers for that much appreciated and for everyone else's input as well ?

Cheers all ... looks like there's a few different opinions on what they may (apart from pics 1 & 2 but may be too old anyway) but that's more than likely because the pics I took weren't great. If I'm there "On site" is there any way as a newbie I can tell if it's Ash, Pine or Spruce ??? Another slightly off subject question which I may be better off asking in another thread but how does Ash Dieback spread ... we're pretty remote and have a lovely Ash in the garden taht also shields us from the property behind, we had wood delivered last autumn and I'm sure some of it had the Ash ... is it fungus ... on it ... can it spread froma dead log to a tree 15 mtrs away does anyone know???

Can anyone tell me what any of these are??

No it's for the sides of a busy walkway on common land that passes down the back of a housing estate, I went up with my petrol saw a while ago and got some glares from passers by as well as people looking out of their window that ovelooks the path to see what I was doing. With summer people sitting in their garden over a weekend really don't want to sit there with a chainsaw blaring out so thought it was a better option ..... if I'm brutally honest though it's probably just an excuse to justify expense / a new toy to the Mrs ? Anybody have any experience with the Makita duc 355Z ????

Cheers for that ... have you had it long / much use and any comments on durability?

This is partially what started me looking at an electric as I have an electric Black & Decker pole saw which has been absolutely brilliant but recently I've been topping some conifers / hedges (and need to do more and maintain in the future) where the cut's horizontal as opposed to vertical. I was trying to do it with the pole saw but you have to move the ladder miles away and hold the heavy saw horizontally which is a nightmare and several times I went up the ladder to find it was just that bit too close or bit too far away and you end up climbing down and moving the ladder and having to go up again ..... was uncomfortable and taking hours. If I don't go for the Einhell it'd be the Makita duc 355 Z which I get is probably a far superior piece of kit but as you say double the cost at least with batteries / charger .... it's whether that cost's justified for the amount I'd use it ..... with hindsight I only recently bought a new ish petrol saw, I probably would have been best off getting a cheaper electric for the home use and putting the money saved towards the battery one.

One other quick query, how do I know what file size for each chain (have 3 chainsaws and maybe a 4th soon), the file I have came with a Stihl saw I had nicked years agao and is 4mm, I found the spec for the pole saw and it said 4mm but where I was looking up the spec for my Echo and an old McCulloch whilst I could find number of links etc. and 3/8"s I couldn't seem to see what file size to use.

Noise where I go and smell of petrol in the car but also I'd feel more comfortable working at height hedging / pruning etc. with an electric than a petrol (especially as it's not that easy to start a petrol up a ladder ?) so it's kind of dual purpose.

Brilliant and cheers to all there's a load of really useful information there and much appreciated ? ?

Looking for something to take out into local woods to cut approx 8/10/12" width lengths of log approx 4.5 feet long that I can load into the back of the car (Zafira) and bring home and then use a petrol saw to section into smaller log burner size lengths. Has anybody got the Einhell and if so what do you think of it both in terms of battery life and build quality etc. and would I easily fill a boot full on a charge .... the smaller one there were reviews saying the chain wasn't great (although that could be replaced for a fairly small amount) so wondered if the bigger brother had any known failings. If I compare the cost of the Einhell to say Makita / Stihl equivalents they're virtually double the cost with battery / charger but if the Einhell was no good I'd rather bite the bullet and buy once.

Aggghhhhhhh ...... So a couple of seasons of reasonable usage topping a few biggish conifers and doing a lot of laurel last weekend and never having sharpened it could explain why my Black & Decker Pole saw's bogging then ? ? Blimey I didn't realise they'd need doing that often, I do have a normal sharpener which I can use in the interim, roughly how many passes should I do on each blade do you reckon and how do I know when it's actually sharp?? Cheers for all teh replies, I#ll order one of the ones I linked to for sure and will defo take a look at the Oregon site as well!!! ?

A few sharpening questions if anyone can help .... I really only use it for logging for a stove so not for doing commercial work. Has anyone used the Stihl 2 in 1 copies like the link here and if so are they any good or am I wasting my money and better off getting the real deal 2 in 1 Chainsaw Chain Fast Sharpener Metal File 3/8" 4.0mm Replace For STIHL WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Material: Made of plastic and grindstone, it is durable and anti-corrosive. Sharpen any chain quickly and easily, can make your saw chain more sharp, easy to use. Scientific design: the end... Approximately how often do you sharpen the chain ... don't know if it can be measured in approximate hours or not and assuming I'm looking after it and avoiding things like cutting into the ground. Roughly how many times would you sharpen a chain before replacing with a new one. Help with any of the above would be appreciated even if it's just one of them!!

They will hold charge but leaving them fully charged over extended periods of time they build up internal resistance and it destroys the battery. For long life they're best off storing at 1/2 charge and they're always shipped like that as they've no idea how long they'll sit in a warehouse / shop for.

Cheers all ... sounds like on the scale I'll be doing it it's probably OK so out with the saw we come :-)

I've got an at least 20 year old climbing frame that I've never treated although I'm guessing it probably was from new, do you think t's OK to birn it on a wood burner or might it give off something either not good to breath in or that may damage the burner?