owain038

When you say new plugs, do you mean brand new, out of the box new? I've had 3 out of a box that didn't spark at all.
 
Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but are you actually getting a spark? 
 
I've had plugs that spark outside the cylinder, when tested, but then didn't appear to spark under compression. 
For testing I'd always use a plug from a good running saw - just for elimination purposes. Then if it still won't attempt to fire, even to cough the problem's elsewhere. Sheared key or something like that.

Sorry, yeah I'm getting good spark, have used new plugs and taken plugs out of my own saws with no difference...
Didn't think to check the key actually, will check that soon

Just had a 372xp dropped to me. Customer said it was running fine, recently had "engine changed" which he later said was engine and crank replaced. Came in for a coil replacement as the original plug boot had some off and the wire was damaged. Put a new OEM coil in, but no sign of any life. Good bright spark, getting fuel as plug is wet, compression tested at ~130psi (at sea level and also a cheaper compression tester).

Tried new plugs, drop of fuel down the cylinder, decompressor in/out, sprayed soapy water on it while compression testing to check for leaks and no sign of life at all...

Any further suggestions as it's doing my head (and shoulder) in

Spent a few free hours bucking up some firewood for a friend who's no longer able. 461 is ripping [emoji108]

A sweet chestnut at home that died for no obvious reason..
And a dying sycamore near to a newly built house.. was probably only 2 inches either side of good wood.
Both easy jobs but good practice.

Many wished life was as easy and simple as that. I get where you are coming from but.....you don't grow back from an injury with this kit!

That's true... To be honest if I end up using it alot I'll probably sell it on and pick up a cs100 or similar, the smaller form factor is attractive. Appreciate the concern [emoji106]

Oh Blimey! I would check that the controls satisfy the H and S E regs before you spend any more on it. I'm not sure it does! Kilworth machinery are the current importers and may be able to help.

This is only used on my own property for clearing, won't be used for work [emoji106]

Am I the only one that hates the smell of Aspen? Recently trialed it with a new Husqvarna hedge trimmer and the smell is so sickly it makes me feel ill.
I'm not hating on it I genuinely like the idea behind it but I can't stand the smell from the 'fumes' off it.

Tightened up the belts and gave it a test run. Ran much better than before, as above it doesn't seem to have a no stress, however it's not too difficult to manage the speed yourself, just a little more inconvenient.
Gave it a test of some grey Willow, while it managed okay it produced some longer chips. I then tried some Griselinia hedging which it managed much better and chipped much nicer. I'm also very happy with the quality of the chipping/shreddings which I'm guessing is due to the combination of blades and hammers?
It's tough to remember it's not a timberwolf and you can't just feed it infinitely, but I feel it will be handy.
(I left the covers off to inspect any potential first use issues; found a fuel hose which I'm presuming to be the vent leaking so maybe the float is stuck will require some investigating.)

Doing a bit more investigation this evening. Is there anyway to tell if it has a "no stress" feature?
Struggling to find any information on it

Looks like new belts are required. Those are shot. Suspect the heat is from the belts slipping. I would change belts and tension so belts can be rotated to 90 deg. Then try it.

Two new belts just ordered [emoji106] plan on stripping it down further tomorrow as apparently the "blades were sharpened recently" aswell [emoji849] hopefully should be working well by the end.
May even look into mounting it on a small tracked dumper base down the line rather than the trailer unit.
Thanks

Hi all, just after picking up my first chipper. It's a Negri R250 powered by a 20hp petrol v-twin Honda engine, with a single hydraulic feed wheel. I took a bit of a risk buying it and yet to see whether it was worth it. Fired right up and reved up nicely. Right time to engage the feed roller and get to work! Alas, once a load was fed it, it seemed like the clutch wouldn't engage and the revs died and the brash was now stuck in the chipper feed wheel [emoji849] freed it up and decided to do a quick bit of general investigation before it got dark.

The "recently replaced belts" is a relatively term I guess [emoji849] The pulley on the engine was also extremely hot after a minute or two running, is this normal?

Plan to change the belts and maybe the pulley bearings while I'm there.

Any mechanical tips appreciated as I'm new to the repair side of chippers!

Just have to be quick and patient on whichever is your preferred listing site. All my saws have been second hand. Just picked up this MS461 with barely any work done (paint still intact underneath, no marks or scratches) for €300!! Possible deal of the year [emoji102]

Not sure it's as heavy as the Weibang to be honest, they weigh in very heavy for the size of them in comparison.  Weight isn't everything though, just because they're heavy doesn't make them better.  Plus I've had to reinforce my workbench. lol..   I'm not a fan.  
 
I would still say the extra dosh for the Honda would worth while.  My only thoughts with the Honda is I wish they'd fit their hydro gearbox to it, and get rid of that orrible dog clutch which they've been running from day one.

I also have the hrx 537 bought new in 2011, which has the hydrostatic gearbox and find it an absolute disaster! Already replaced it once for something like €600 (fitted myself) and it's suddenly gone slow again so hoping it's just the cable or belt and not the box again. Also struggled with any bit of a hill and the gears on the axle which mesh with the inside of the wheel are very soft and wear out far too frequently. Hasn't done a 1/3 of the work of the hrh 536 (bought new in 2005!! Still going like a clock) but 3 times the issues sadly.
Just checked the VIN plates of both and they are also supposed to be the same power but the professional is far superior.

I've decided that at the moment I'll never buy any other push mower other than a Honda pro HRH536. They are big money, but nothing I've used compares. My own one was used 4-5 days a week in the season (March to october), and is still going over 10 years later no problems, only the usual consumables such as cables and blades over the years. Regular servicing and care, I've no reason not to expect many more years of service.
A heavy mower but built to last and will tackle very rough long and wet grass with no issues.

Surprising,  but anyway all's good if the problem has gone away.  Glad your up and running. 
 
bmp01

Cheers, ran it for a good spell today, logged a share of timber for firewood (all done on 3/4 of a tank!!) , got it running sweet, definitely my new go-to saw for smaller stuff [emoji123]
Appreciate the help!

Prices are good but it stops there... I ordered some climbing gear from northern arb.. "3-5 working days" it took 4 weeks, multiple phone calls, emails and Facebook messages to figure out what was going on. Some stuff wasn't in stock but I wasn't told, then apparently wrong stuff supplied etc etc. Next time I'll be using a different company!

Glad you got it sorted.
 
Having followed this thread was turning the bar on my 026 and just out of interest removed that chain guide plate - still tightened up no problem which proves absolutely nothing LOL!
 
 

[emoji23][emoji23] I guess just as my bar seems to be thin (4mm vs 4.5mm as posted by someone above) that extra half mm seems to make the difference!

Well it turns out the "optional" wear plate is essential. After fitting it, there's no issues with bar movement! Delighted to finally be able to run this saw and tune it up.
Also got some new climbing gear, today is a good day!
Appreciate the help [emoji4]

This could run and run. Not sure using a screwdriver and box spanner is good enough and he sure doesn't look that beefy.
I would have thought if you cranked a plastic cover down hard, it would just bend if it was catching on the outer edges.
I would also estimate that if this saw was on my bench, I would get to the bottom of it in minutes, perhaps seconds as would probably many others!

Forgive me but I feel if you are getting out the breaker bar to tighten down your bar nuts you have bigger issues.
I know there's something not right here and rather than tighten it till something else breaks or another issue arises I want to fix it properly. This isn't my first saw on the bench.
I'm delighted to hear how quickly you'd fix it. Congrats

Seems like it. ...
I don't believe the bar thickness has anything to do with it.  If I take the bar off my 260 and just put the cover on the gap between clamping faces is approx 3 mm, just sliding it on.
Ditto the studs,  the stud collar is below the face of the bar.
Turn the cover through 180 degrees and see if it goes on.  If not why not? 

Unfortunately turning the cover fouls the bar before you can begin tightening down.

It can't be that difficult......can it???
If the bar is 0.5mm thinner, are the stud threads long enough to tighten the cover down fully as both look a bit worn?

Chances of 3 covers and 2 sets of studs being worn out of spec..? I'd say that's fairly unlikely. Threads are visible through the hole in the cover so not like it's bottoming out

No, i’d be same! You got any other bars about ya?

Unfortunately nothing with the same mount tried them already [emoji25]

Bizarre as your bars part number does cross ref as correct for a 024

Indeed it's very odd! Don't really want to order another new one and have the same issue [emoji848]

Just looked at it again : removed wear pads from saw and side covers, removed chain tensioner and plastic chain brake cover. So just installing the bar and both side covers, issue is still there. Decided to file the plastic side cover slightly to ensure it wasn't contacting the rest of the saw before clamping the bar. Still the same issue.
Possible that the 0.5mm skinnier bar is the issue? [emoji848]
An overview: bar studs changed, correct side cover, any inner plastic removed, tensioner removed.
Only thing left really is the bar...

 

 

 

I’m with wedgebanger on the studs being fit wrong way round.

I have a 024AV wood boss but its at work and not back in till thursday, if your still stuck i can take in bits and picture for you what i have [emoji106]

Your bar should be fine as all checks out on oregon page as being the right one for your saw. The plastic cover is off a homeowner saw (typically orange handled, i.e 021,023,025,029,039 etc) your 024 is classed as a pro saw (white handle) and should have the magnesium case fitted. Let me know if you need pics [emoji106]

 

Do you think my bar studs are incorrect? I installed the same way as the old ones came out. With the shank above the collar.

I was thinking it was odd that the cover was plastic as it's a pro saw. Hence why I bought the metal cover.

Yeah some pictures would be great if it's not sorted! Appreciate that.

 

Will try remove those wear bumpers shortly and report back

Thanks