bmp01

Nice hot (way too hot to hold) spark plug will sometimes help if the fuel mixture is a bit off - you've just to figure out his to do it with the tools you have to hand ?

Been a few of these 171 / 181 / 211 won't start issues, and quite a few market carbs after which the requests for help dry up .... Trouble is without feedback we don't know if the repair worked or the saw was binned. 

 Where abouts are you ?

19 minutes ago, owain038 said:

20 minutes ago, bmp01 said:

Seems like it. ...
I don't believe the bar thickness has anything to do with it.  If I take the bar off my 260 and just put the cover on the gap between clamping faces is approx 3 mm, just sliding it on.
Ditto the studs,  the stud collar is below the face of the bar.
Turn the cover through 180 degrees and see if it goes on.  If not why not? 

Unfortunately turning the cover fouls the bar before you can begin tightening down.

Without the bar, pop the cover on by hand, just want to see if the studs catch on anything.  

3 minutes ago, spudulike said:

It can't be that difficult......can it???

Seems like it. ...

I don't believe the bar thickness has anything to do with it.  If I take the bar off my 260 and just put the cover on the gap between clamping faces is approx 3 mm, just sliding it on.

Ditto the studs,  the stud collar is below the face of the bar.

Turn the cover through 180 degrees and see if it goes on.  If not why not? 

Here's another thing to try,  a bit mad but might learn something.

Try putting the clutch cover on with it rotated through 180 degrees, so the STIHL badge is upside down. We're checking the cover goes all the way down without the perimeter getting in the way. If not what's stopping it ?

Only 2 things left. ... (that I can think of)

1) the mounting face on the saw has been machined back,  or filed or what ever. ...to get rid of a badly worn face. (Pretty unlikely I guess).

2) the perimeter of the side cover contacts the saw early,  stopping the clamping face from doing is job. (Wrong side cover,  get creative with a file or an angle grinder ?)

7 minutes ago, Wedgebanger said:

well I guess I missed the chain adjuster being at the front. Doh.. it’s amazing what you miss.. after all it a 024av. Not a 024 as I know.. so there are a few differences. 

 

My simple suggestion of removing the chain adjuster, to only test that it is the adjuster fouling the cover. While there check the plastic cover for fitment.  It would be easy to remove some plastic from the plastic cover if it fitted well without the chain adjuster. ( I would not file down the chain adjuster, as I think you may find it hard to get another)

 

 after reading some threads on 024 av there are a few variations and the original cover only had one bar nut but peeps changed them out to a two stud cover. 

But unfortunately some things go undocumented.  

 

Then in I guess the choice is yours 

 

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-024-av-super-1149-version-ipl.316832/

 

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-024-av-eq-chain-tensioner.260484/

 

Those are useful links. I bet what's happened is that a mish-mash of parts have been fitted, specifically the wrong adjuster widget....

Oik adjuster out.  Assemble saw. See if that solves it. Then figure out what to do with adjuster. 

The clutch cover might be the problem and you might have to get a known good one, one you know really belongs to a 024...

But back up a bit, put the bar on the saw with out clutch cover (or chain). Can you confirm the collar on the bar stud  below the surface of the bar ?

If that's ok then take the chain adjuster out,  it's not hard, then put the metal cover on. Can you see the thread on the bar stud continuing into the hole? (.....so the nut isn't bottoming on the stud before it clamps the clutch cover).

If that's ok pop the nuts on and do them up. Still the same or fixed? 

bmp01 

Owh hang on a minute...  what's this in your picture? Is the tensioner holding the cover off ?

This is how the bar sits on the studs, note the collar is below the bar surface. 

Even then the clutch cover has 2 counter bores in it, so if the collar sits pround (above) of the bar surface it should still clamp....

If the above is ok then either,

-the clutch cover is sitting on its outside edge, maybe it needs tightening down some more ?

-the thread on the bar stud doesn't go deep enough so the nut is binding on the stud before it clamps on the cover, is the cover loose as well the bar ?

HTH

bmp01

Bar clamping info: 

Bar is 4.5 mm thick

Stud collar height is 4.0 mm

Tin plate is 0.5 mm thick

This assembly does have a screw to hold the tin plate in place, studs screw down to saw body, so in this case the collar height is effectively reduced by 0.5 mm ----> bar 4.5 mm thick over collar height 3.5 mm.

Blimey this is getting a bit muddled. Couple of facts:

1) The location of the bar the saw case is 'roughly' located with the collar on the bar studs and the slot in the bar. This is not adequate for anything other than assembling the bar/chain and clutch cover onto the saw. 

2) The side cover must clamp the bar to the saw for running purposes  (and maintain chain tension etc). As mentioned hold the top of the bar up when the clutch cover is tightened down. 

Clearly something is not right with this saw. I've just pulled the clutch cover off my MS260, for a look see, taken some measurements and pictures.... all Stihl parts, just as it came out of the factory. 

First up bar stud collar and bar slot. ...

On 12/06/2019 at 23:26, Dan Maynard said:

Have you found just a sprocket or do you have a new drum as well? Changed the rim sprocket on my PS6000i but the drum will want doing next time and I think they are obsolete.

Looks like the clutch for dcs6000/6800 is obsolete but the drum is still available. .... didn't look too hard, part shop direct.co.uk  Had me worried there. 

That was worth a watch ?

That guy should be dead by now....  staged or not.

Idles surprisingly well doesn't it.... Considering the high speed running I'm a bit surprised it doesn't just throw the towel in and give up.

Probably just a fueling issue but I'd check the piston condition before running it anymore, (exhaust off, visual check through exhaust port). An outside punt,  does chain run freely, chain brake is not clagged up ? Could explain why it idles ok but can't achieve a decent running speed. 

Edit: scratch that, looks like chain is running on at the end.

Did you spot that piece of plastic stuck in the reed valve , it isn't particularly obvious.  Its the leg of the primer bulb. Saw would run on choke, not at all off choke and try as I might I couldn't see a problem with the carb. Checked for pulse signal for the carb pump - nothing,  then we got there,  the reed valve was blocked open. .... 

Bought a Tanaka ECS 3351 yesterday,  spare or repair . Plentyof compression but I had the exhaust off just in case - nice and clean piston. Rest of the saw was a little grubby but otherwise good condition, little used. Had the feel of being unused, 'parked' under the bench. ...

Anyway reason for the post,  slightly different 2 stroke design with intake charge controlled by a reed valve, don't see that to often in a modern saw and a then one of those 'Really !?! ' moments.....

1 hour ago, peatff said:

When BB says don't think that he installed the wire as a bodge I mistakenly understood it as someone else had done it

To be honest I didnt have a scobby-do either ....

I'm still bemused any one could chomp through or snatch up some fence wire and not know about it until investigating a running on chain. ...  maybe someone else was to blame. 

On 13/05/2019 at 20:27, dannytreacy said:

..... it has very light seasonal use ..... 

My money is on that.

Either run on old pump grade fuel mix or the carb is gunked up.

Lots to check,  make sure you find something  'coz finding nothing is definitely the wrong answer. 

2 hours ago, peatff said:

It's not holding anything on all it's doing is pushing up the cup washer, how does that help ? I honestly can't see what it's there for.

I'm assuming the wire isn't a "design feature" but wrapped itself around the sprocket during a cutting incident. ...  The chain running on being a result of the wire pressing on the crank and driving the sprocket (and chain) even when the clutch has disengaged. Happy to be told I'm wrong ....

It'll all be fine in a bit though,  the wire will soon wear to give running clearance  and/or something else will break.

5 hours ago, peatff said:

What is the fence wire actually doing there ? I can see the clip under it

Giving the clutch a helping hand. ... 

Oops....

Good inspection of chain required after that or is chain obviously fubarred?

Was the "chain running on" the first sign of a problem ?  No cutting issues up to then, no strange noises .....?... ???

Oh, ok, I'll go first. ...

Other saw is a MS 192T and the box is cardboard like, crumpled news paper packing.

And ermmmmm...... they need cleaning ?

Nexxxttttt  !!!

Here's another version, from a 021 parts list, L&S Engineers....

Private message sent to you regarding carb fix.

White smoke is usually associated with water (or coolant) going through the combustion chamber,  not likely with an air cooled  2 stroke unless there is water in the fuel. But I'm guessing you changed the fuel for fresh mix when you did the fuel filter. ... 

I expect your white smoke is down to the 2 stroke oil you used during the rebuild,  it's probably inside the exhaust and needs can good thrash to clean it out. That will have to wait.

Have a look at this thread regarding carb problems :

https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/111138-ms181-spluttering-and-bogging-down-at-high-revs/

HTH.