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The Husqvarna models listed all have a remote purge bulb rather than the bulb being integral to the carb, these items are purge bulbs not primers, so when the bulb is depressed fuel in the bulb is returned to the tank, as the bulb re inflates it draws fuel from the carb, the cycle then repeats itself, due to this system you can purge the bulb all day without flooding the carb. Bulbs that re inflate quickly without drawing fuel means the bulb or the hose is split, bulbs that will not re inflate either have blocked filter in the fuel tank, or the screen in the carb is blocked, or the hose is trapped, or some carbs have a non return valve in the carb itself which may not be functional, finally tubes incorrect connected.

This is a coil, or wiring to it issue, you need to check the earth wire as a said before, the auto tune unit takes its power from the flywheel magnets passing 5he coil, it is very important you have a good earth, the wire is secured at the r/h rear of the cylinder, a single m4 screw, if the screw has come loose it gives all sorts of problems.

On a side issue, when updating firmware on the 560xp, it is important to select the correct piston, this begs the question how do you know which piston part no. is fitted, low compression piston or standard piston.

Rattling noises I found was the cooling fan has moved on the motor shaft and is now touching the outer cover, easy fix , remove all the outer screws and the left hand side just lifts off with the hand guard attached,then just press the fan back on, trigger issues are usually due to the magnet coming lose on the trigger.

Unfortunately the part no. on the ignition unit will be the unit on its own which does not exist, it comes as an assembly with the wires and cover so gets a completely different number, both mark 1 and mark 2 will require removal of the carb to ease fitting, and also the flywheel on the mark 1, there will be no need to update the firmware if just changing the ignition unit, the air gap should be 0.3mm, if you need a shop manual pm me.

If it has no spark at the plug ( they do work off speed of rotation, so make sure you give it a good crank ) then it will require a replacement unit, the mark 1 is a little more difficult to fit due to the earth wire running behind the carb. mark 1 has a deco valve, the mark 11 has no deco valve.

It is very important that the spring on the red stop switch is under the choke shaft when re assembling the carb to the machine, if the wrong side it affects the movement of the switch, the machine will have a home produced cylinder so will not be Mahle, the cables from the ignition unit connect to the auto tune unit with a white block connector, but there is a single separate wire which is the ground wire for the auto tune unit, this wire runs under the induction tube and is secured by one of the carb floor screws, it is very important this wire is well secured or this will affect the running, I was a little concerned to see what looks like a 14mm plug fitted, heaven knows how that affects the combustion chamber area.

Can’t think why it would affect the carburettor or the tuning?

I have seen some like that, the material in this area is very thin however, this should be a low stress area so hard to understand why they have fractured in this area, the av mount is still intact so other than it does not look too pretty, it is still useable.

Are we talking mark 1 or mark 2?

So on the bench remove the air filter, look into the throat of the carb whilst pumping the purge bulb, if there is fuel escaping into the Venturi this is where the problem lies. fuel hoses to, and from the the purge incorrect orientation. purge bulb faulty. fuel inlet needle in the carb leaking. non return valve in the car faulty.

Just to clarify it is not a primer, it’s a purge, so it is pulling fuel from the carb and dumping back to the tank, if it is connected up properly it cannot flood the engine no matter how many times you press it, if it is definitely flooding the engine their is something amiss with it.

So are you saying it wants a pot and piston as well? I though this was a running saw, just had a leak.

Sorry that is an age thing, so it means taking extra precautions to make it seal.

There is a dedicated tool, but is pretty expensive, you cab strip off all the components and use a small blow torch to heat and expand the crankcase.