adw

Thank you for the info, unfortunately not a 2095, but have asked him to keep an eye out.

Well done, great to see these old saws coming out of the woodwork, excuse the pun, pretty sure there are plenty of these old saws lying around in barns and sheds.

Not special, it used to come as a kit of three pipes they were different diameters, as you say it was sold by all the Husqvarna brands, the Husqvarna was known as a Mondo, the manufacturer was Poulon in the US.

That piece you push into the return to tank hose as a belt and braces approach to stop the pipe pulling out of the tank, it is a bit of over kill really as the hose should be a tight fit in the tank.

Funny story, I went out to a council yard who had purchased some Husqvarna 240r brush cutters, they were complaining of the clutch slipping and black gunge coming out of the clutch housing, I asked how often they pumped grease into the gearbox, oh every day they said with an air assisted greaser, they had actually forced grease right up the bloody tube and shaft to the point it was coming out of the top, priceless!

You need a pressure tester mate, this will tell you straight away if the needle and seat are leaking, you will never get it to run properly with a leak at the needle, just looking at will not tell you if it is leaking.

Quite possibly, does this machine have a purge bulb? If so have you connected the pipes up in the correct orientation? remember it’s a purge so pulls fuel from the carb and dumps back to tank, not pumping fuel into the carb.

Stating the obvious the inlet needle is leaking, so either the metering lever is too high, or the metering diaphragm is too stiff, the rubber tipped needle is worn, orn the seat itself is worn, which is pretty normal on an old power cutter due the abrasive dust passing through the carb, when you changed the carb, was it a Chinese copy carb? at best they are not very good.

It matters not what grease you use, it’s an open cage cage running on a very hot shaft, so it does not stay there very long, and much much quicker if you leave the saw idling for lengths of time.

£1200 for what? What bunch of crooks was this?

From what you are saying I think the best bet is to let someone with a wee bit more knowledge on chainsaws take a look at it, used or waste oil is not good to use in the oil tank for many reasons, one of which is you are breathing that in when it is flowing off the chain, bad practice sir.

Yes it is, we did use it at the apf last but one show, drew a lot of people onto the stand.

Christ here we are again running the saw with no bar and chain, I strongly advise you do not do that, on the over run they can, and will spin off, once away from the drum you have two shoes one spring and a spider flying through the air at speed. Yes clean the bar delivery holes, next you need to remove the clutch and check the oil pump gear behind, then remove the oil pick up pipe and filter and clean, has this been running with bio oil?

No it will still be tight on the shaft but the initial firing up starts to put a load on it, if it’s not tight enough, or it was not correctly seated in the key way it will shear, from what you have said it makes sense.

Sounds like it has sheared the flywheel key knocking the ignition timing out.