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It is very important that the spring on the red stop switch is under the choke shaft when re assembling the carb to the machine, if the wrong side it affects the movement of the switch, the machine will have a home produced cylinder so will not be Mahle, the cables from the ignition unit connect to the auto tune unit with a white block connector, but there is a single separate wire which is the ground wire for the auto tune unit, this wire runs under the induction tube and is secured by one of the carb floor screws, it is very important this wire is well secured or this will affect the running, I was a little concerned to see what looks like a 14mm plug fitted, heaven knows how that affects the combustion chamber area.

Can’t think why it would affect the carburettor or the tuning?

I have seen some like that, the material in this area is very thin however, this should be a low stress area so hard to understand why they have fractured in this area, the av mount is still intact so other than it does not look too pretty, it is still useable.

Are we talking mark 1 or mark 2?

So on the bench remove the air filter, look into the throat of the carb whilst pumping the purge bulb, if there is fuel escaping into the Venturi this is where the problem lies. fuel hoses to, and from the the purge incorrect orientation. purge bulb faulty. fuel inlet needle in the carb leaking. non return valve in the car faulty.

Just to clarify it is not a primer, it’s a purge, so it is pulling fuel from the carb and dumping back to the tank, if it is connected up properly it cannot flood the engine no matter how many times you press it, if it is definitely flooding the engine their is something amiss with it.

So are you saying it wants a pot and piston as well? I though this was a running saw, just had a leak.

Sorry that is an age thing, so it means taking extra precautions to make it seal.

There is a dedicated tool, but is pretty expensive, you cab strip off all the components and use a small blow torch to heat and expand the crankcase.

Seen plenty like that, this was why they added an additional screw to clamp the crankcase tighter in that area, if the saw is a good runner yes it’s worth doing, split the crankcase and fit a new gasket, as a belt and braces repair also use some instant gasket either side of the new gasket, it would probably be worth replacing the main bearings as it’s apart, pretty sure we can advise you as you go if you choose to repair it.

Chain saws are basically stationary engines, all the cooling air for the cylinder comes through the grill in the starter cover, so keep them clear.

Seen and repaired many a 162, so the twin Steele ring piston came later than the single cast ring, due to premature wear on the Steele rings they went back to cast,the cylinder remained the same with both piston types, they did all have Tillotson HS carbs, and sem coil and ignition units, yes I would replace both seals due to the age of these saws, the seal is pressed into the pump housing, be careful when refitting it over the step of the crank, the seal should sit proud on the inside, replace the o ring, the flywheel side seal is pressed into a plastic housing, make sure it is not warped and replace the o ring.

How are you running a 058 gauge chain in a 050 bar, if it actually turns the bar must well worn, it should not turn at all.

We went on the Thursday, it’s amazing the lengths some companies will go to, Stihl had a barber shop on their stand not sure I was too welcome though, a colleague paid cash for his sausage and chips not a card?

It’s aimed at anybody that runs a saw with outboard clutch and no bar and chain fitted, an accident waiting to happen.