treesrus

you could try doing what ice-skaters do - wear their tights over their boots...

concrete will be like a cup and hold water, which is wht it will rot more quickly. i was asked to move a sculpted eagle, (from a weeping willow), when the customer moved house, was allready about 10 yrs old, 12ft high, wingspan 6ft. stump was starting to go but customer was adamant she wanted to take it with. treatedit with preservative, but got local smithy to make a massive iron peg to secure it, one piece in the ground, concreted, and the other end mounted/bolted within the stump.

it's either Alder, or maybe it could be Alder.

Just a thought....

 

We have British Standards concerned with Trees and Developments, Nurseries and Planting and Tree Works amongst others. Why not have one for house buying!? (even if it's just ickle)

 

The amount of times I've come across NIMBY's who've bought a house with a tree next door adjacent or on the boundary and want it down/pruned a few years later. Surely a bit of advice from an estate agent (should they be considering this anyway?) would reduce the number of cases like this one presented here?

 

 

In regards to this tree, why are there so many members who feel the need to get one-upmanship on matters of the law?? (and that is aimed at both sides of this argument). As Jules states, so many cases like this go unresolved (in the law) due to interpretation of words and phrases, misunderstandings of terminology or sheer bloody-mindedness from arguing factions. BUT, as Rupe states, this tree is easily resolvable and has given by far the best (from a common sense perspective) advice.

 

 

We can argue till we're blue in the face about the benefits of trees and if we could change your mind to leave it and live with it, great. If not, go with professional advice and remain amicable at all times, even show willingness on your behalf to mitigate the pruning of the tree by buying a small potted tree and offering to plant elsewhere perhaps. And in future, maybe you have friends or relatives thinking of, or in the process of, buying a new house that you could give sound advice too in regards to houses and boundary trees.

spot on, not many customers really understand what the results of their demands will be. without the cooperation of the neighbour, a crown lift/thinning won't be possible, and just shaving one side of the tree, for several reasons, is not a good result and won't be a significant gain as regards light.

could be bacterial wetwood

looks like the ripple sycamore i had once, and the next one looks like birch burr.

p.s. don't be fooled by any company proffessing to remove knotweed permanently within 3 yrs or so. i have been dealing with it for years, Glyphosate is the active ingredient required, but because of the depth and tenacity of the root system, it is hard to guarantee success. there is a Defra report somewhere of an instance where the stuff popped up again some 20 odd years later. i have experience of it re-emerging after over 10yrs!

totally agree with Armybloke, the tree was there first, learn to live with it!

"Please be aware that your common law rights are intended to allow you to

carry out the minimum amount of work. If you carry out extensive works

and in so doing you make the tree unsafe, the tree owner may have a case

against you for criminal damage." for this reason, be sure whoever does the work is qualified and insured.

try this; Hardwood Anatomy | The Wood Database

hard to say without more info, but i was once asked the same question, turned out to be compacted soil around the base of the tree. so be sure to check all possibilities otherwise you'll get the same problem with the new tree.

bark not right for cherry laurel or bay, could be portugese laurel (laurus lusitanica).

and if you do any work without permission from your neighbours, regardless of whether it is on your side, it is then criminal damage. as said previously, trees grow, when you bought the house you should have considered that. it could be much worse, if it was a beech or a leylandii. birch are delightful trees, learn to live with it.

to get more light, you could suggest a crown lift, and some work to narrow the crown, that way, the shadow of the tree will move more.

bark is similar to laburnum except lab is either greenish or orange (when dead), and the heart wood is always dark. my thoughts are rowan, but i might be wrong.

looks like number 5 there too, any other marks??

fantastic, would love to go back again. (esp. Kyoto).

see if you can get to do something on Niwaki, (cloud-sculpted trees).

my 353 is still my best saw, never a problem with it, would buy the same again.

i used softwood, 4"x4" legs, 3"x9" planks for the top - needs to be rock solid.

.....

i have had my business name used by unknown cowboys on 3 separate occasions, each time i got a complaint about bad job done and rude, aggressive operators. i was able to clear my name, but i suspect this may be quite common. i'm in n.wales so i doubt it's the same characters as yours.

dig up as much of the root system as you, the more the better the recovery. lay them on a tarp, cover with wet newspaper, and very carefully take to preprepared site for immediate planting, if new site not ready, find somewhere to heel them in, maybe in a pile of weathered woodchip, or leaf mulch.

the bloke who stands under the tree you're in wondering what you're doing there.

not very long lived trees, (less than 60yrs), i have one in front of my house, reluctantly taking it down next week. had one come down in the storms near us, damage to nearby house and lots of aggro. get it checked, you may find it's past it's sell-by date. reduction is not recommended.

what is it with the English and their lawns - i got rid of all my grass and now the moss looks lovely.

if it's a pet kitten, it will come to you while you're up the tree, if it's feral or adult, leave it.

which explains my success/failure rate.