treesrus

my '88 defender 2.5 TD was on 199,987 miles on the clock. i was going to give it a celebratory wash when it hit 200,000 but it got robbed out of my drive to use in a robbery, in which it got wrecked. did alright from the insurance though.

just started watching Green Wing again, brilliant..

came accross this today, would suggest a fungal disease.

acer.

Had my broadband and landline with orange, who then became EE, and who now are turning into BT. 😳

had broadband with freeserve, then orange, then EE, now BT, downhill all the way.

...and the quality goes up!

i got my training at Llysfasi college between wrexham and Ruthin, may be too far for you to travel, (but not as far as Myerscough), but definitely recommended.

nothing wrong with using top-handled on the ground.

i use brash mats.

The ad says 75c- 200c, I'm thinking it would maybe start working between these temps?

75-200C is the ecofan 806 costs about £155.- , i,d check your surface temp before paying out that much.

it only takes 100C to boil water, not hot enough for an ecofan. you need to measure the temp at the surface. the ecofans will turn at lower temp, but not fast enough to move any volume of hot air.

Thinking of getting one - anyone use a fan with integral boiler ? I am wondering if there is enough surface heat to get the fan to work effectively.

very good question - my old multifuel w/o boiler would get surface temp up to 300C, but my new woodburner with boiler at best only gets up to 200C but usually runs at 80-120C. in my haste, i bought an Ecofan 800 off ebay (cheapest), needless to say it was not up to the job. the Ecofan web site gives info on temp range of the various models they have and in my case the best would also be the most expensive (£150ish). at present, i am using an ancient mains fan, which works exceptionally well in distributing the heat, and i will probably continue to use this as the electric used in minimal. i plan to do all the calculations re ecofan v. mains fan.

get a surface thermometer, they are not expensive, then you can see if your burner gets hot enough.

15' of a 90' red cedar? i'd tell them to leave it alone, it's gonna grow back worse than it was.

I have looked into fans, as you would think having one very hot room in the house with a wood burner in it, the logic would be to use a fan to push the heat out of the room to the rest of the house. Fact a fan will cool air.

If you lay on the floor in the doorway of the room that has the wood burner in it you will feel a cool draft being pulled into the room, if you use a thermometer to see the difference between the floor and the highest part of the room there is a vast difference this is thermal cycling. Thermal cycling will move a huge amount of air. so in answer to the question all a fan will do is cool air and interrupt the natural flow of air.

I would buy one tomorrow if someone can prove they work but I think they are a placebo not as we see a fan moving but its moving without and power supply.

I think the only way a fan would work if one is placed at the top of the door adding to the thermal cycle.

slightly flawed logic - the point of a fan is to move the hot air away from the stove quicker so that the cooler air that replaces it is heated, more heat is radiated to cooler air than to warmer air, meaning that less heat goes up the chimney.

yep, i've seen this, too - it's those pesky squirrels.

you're right, we are collectively steered away from uncomfortable truths by the media, but there are some out there who are rocking the boat, most notably Russia Today, must view, especially Abby Martin. check these out, there are many more: Chris Hedges on the Roots of Terrorism - Truthdig

and [ame]

depends on your layout and how hot the top of your stove gets. i had a twin blade heat driven (£47ebay), good but my stove cycles cooler input air through the top so it doesn't get hot enough to drive it to it's full potential. i now use an electric driven fan, and, yes, it blasts the heat away from going up the chimney, ( i have a relatively large fire place), and makes a significant difference to heating other parts of the house. i gave the heat driven fan to my daughter, who has a stove that gets hot enough on top to drive it, she's over the moon as it warms her entire caravan, and keeps the condensation away. definitely recommended.

i pollarded a young HC about 10 years back, cut back the main trunk (9" diam) to about 8' off the ground, originally was going to kill it off, but use the stem to tie on a washing line. The HC reacted so vigorously that i have been cutting it back it every year since and it has now developed some good pollard knuckles. the fresh growth are always water shoots, but that is the nature (and reason) for pollarding.

the main issue is having the patience to establish that good looking pollard, it will take years...

i guess the high-vis is so they can find him in the undergrowth!

yep, cryptomeria, has a fluffy sort of look to it.

in japan it's called NIWAKI or cloud sculpted trees, takes a lot of skill and training to do it right :-

i was told this is leylandii.

Daltontrees gives the most sensible, accurate and relevent response throughout this entire thread, and to which i entirely agree.

put a large alsation in the yard.

check with the books or online, also there are bonsai clubs around (where in wales are you?). i have about 10 bonsai going on for 10yrs. you'll need lots of patience and be able to give them daily attention sometimes, (regular watering when we have dry weather.) start off with Jap acers, or hawthorn, both quite forgiving.