wisecobandit

Does he live far from you?

Tell him next time hes going to use it to make you aware and charge him the going rate to go watch him cut his logs so you can watch how he does everything.

Sounds more like operator error than the saw itself, likewise ensure you watch how he makes his pre-mix up etc.

I have used degreasers like jizer before using water to clean it etc but seems long winded with brushing it on and washing it off (haven't got an air line unfortunately tho makes sense how you do it)

I do use old fuel sometimes tho the other half complains about the loitering smell lol, saying that she does about the brake cleaner but atleast that evaporates in a few minutes.

I did think about a paraffin bath type thing but worry about dirt/rubbish in the carb etc.

Never really thought I would use one but bought a cheap b and q one once when the where on offer and suprising how many times I have used it. Don't spend a fortune on one just buy a cheaper one then if you find you use it lots and it breaks go buy a better one.

Oh sounds like it may take a bit of healing then ;-(

Never thought about insurance policys tbh as never really gone sick, the quack even commented as he hadn't seen me for nearly 4 years but just shows how these things can crop up out the blue.

1 of those things you knew what it was without having to be told but even im aware it wouldn't heal itself and would only get worse so for once in my life took the attitude to get it sorted sooner rather than later.

Seems its more common than I thought it was, though the doc said it was surprisingly high just below the belt line, I thought it would've been low. Oh well best I back off all the light duty jobs at home and let them build up for after the op so im not bored senseless.

I tend to use brake cleaner for cleaning off all the grot before tearing down saws, however it appears im using more and more of the stuff.

Only buy it from tool station (about £2.23 a 400ml can) but wandering what other people use? ive used 6 cans in just a week.

I know when I worked at Vauxhall they used to buy it in 25ltr drums and we used to put it in pump bottles to use so may have to look into that method but is there anything else others use that make economical sense?

Ah b+gger, just got back from the quacks and been confirmed I got a small hernia grrrr

Well I know need to go in as an inpatient to be told by them now "yeah its a hernia" then go back in again for a minor op to patch it up.

4 - 6 weeks off work he advised after the op. Being self employed I give it a maximum of 2 wks....

How much time off do these people think we can take and be able to afford it...

I run full throttle from word go, 50:1 and rarely take my finger off for the first few tanks, after that, the saw is a demon, did it with my 346 and my 560, I didn't buy the 550 as the demo saw didn't seem as good as my 346

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

A man with my way of thinking lol.

The main thing is not to glaze the bores as Spud says, no excessive heat etc but on the other hand you don't want it sat at a fixed rpm whatever that may be as that will glaze it up to.

My attitude although prob wrong is used it as its meant to be used and don't think about it being a new saw, just avoid extended long cuts, if it goes wrong its under guarantee.

Being autotune it prob wont run its best to start anyway as they take a few tanks to get themselves dialled in.

Not ideal but I know Oregon dropped them out there catalogue etc but they where still available. Madeson in Oregon, USA where selling them still tho.

Yeah, thanks Rich, wonder where you got that one from:001_rolleyes:

 

Also have a Jonsered 2171 that has had a cheap Chinese kit fitted and then seized, carb settings are fine so may be an airleak but will test later.

 

One thing I have never seen before is that the piston out of the Jonnie has a rough cast top - how crap is that - they are always machined down to size but this one is something else - cheap, cheap cheap rubbish!

Possibility of an el cheap piston like that expanding with the heat and seizing?

Even the top bevelled edge looks like its been finished with a file...

Interesting it has ZV stamped/etched on it as most of the Chinese stuff put nothing more than the directional arrow.

Try this one for seals.

 

Simply Bearings Ltd ~ Oil Seals SKF FAG TIMKEN KOYO NTN NKE TRULOC Needle Rollers Taper Rollers Rod Ends Oilite Bushes Loose Balls O Rings Grease Plain Thrust

Thanks Rich, That's a bloody handy site to know, already placed an order so you should ask for commission from them.

Seems stihl superseded the p/n 3 times and then don't do it anyway.. Seems it was only the very first few had this particular seal and not used on any other saws. Turns out its the same size as the front wheel oil seal on a triumph motorcycle...

Stripped down a 1976 stihl 051 which is in a condition that most sane people would right it off and throw away. Taken me longer to find/order new crank seals than to clean and strip it etc. 1 was easy to find (flywheel) as commonly used but the other a right pig to track down.

Seems leaving a chainsaw on a log pile outside for 2 years doesn't do them any favours...

Can get them online here...

Tank Vent for Stihl 028, 048 - 1117 350 5800 | Only £2.50 | Stihl 021/MS210 Chainsaw Spares

tank vent tube p/n 1117 350 5800 £2.15 + vat

021 023 and 025 certainly use the same.

I might do mine again in orange but is the stihl orange or husky orange better?

Stupid thing is ive got a 1985 husky which looks almost as good as new, the plastics haven't faded, the paint doesn't chip yet the newer saws are just disposable like newer cars.

Can quite easily say the 044 has more paint missing off the crankcases than what its actually got left on it. My 357xp has turned into about 4 different shades of orange/red. Clearly the newer saws are built out of inferior materials.

Lol I was actually talking about the crankcases not the plastics.

Certainly not a job for today as need to get paint etc ordered or whatever if anyone had any good result. Just didn't know if anyone had tried one of these diy powder coating kits or anything.

Get back to the sink!!!!!

Lol left myself open to that one....

Worst thing is, no dishwasher.... see if she was at work I could be washing chainsaw bits in there lol.

Easy-lift , scary thing is shes working a ward today she doesn't normally work on with 2 agency auxillarys and they are charging £60 an hour each whilst Helen will be in charge of them, working a sunday for £20 an hour...

Cheers for the heads up Marcus, its a long slog but we all get there somehow I guess. Cant moan I guess, we both have jobs, the house, 2 cars etc so cant all be bad.

Right, lets get back to peeling the veg

So having done 67hrs work this week, the better half working today and having worked everyday this past week/weekend (shes a "womens problems" nurse up the hospital) ive got the sunday off....

Or so I thought, first job after dropping her to work at 7.30, then nip around her mates and hang a couple of window blinds, go get some veg for tonights roast on the way back home, feed the dogs,wash the dishes from last night as we didn't get in and eat til nearly 9, on the 3rd load of washing in the washing machine this morning etc and no doubt more as the day goes on....

What happened to my sunday morning lay in??

Is it just me/other half going mad or has that sunday day of rest well and truly gone for everone?

I suppose I am up at 4,30 every morning so atleast 6.30 was a bit of a lay in....

Well I have got a new pro-lite 20" Oregon bar that would fit it.

Just ordered a new full chisel chain as not got one spare so will give it a go. Thanks peeps.

Wasn't sure how the pro-lite bar would stand the abuse an 044 can give but willing to give it a go and have some fun in the process lol.

Anyone ever tried and had good results? ie no issues with spilt fuel taking paint off etc

Debating giving it a go on the 044 as starting to look rather well used now.

Wasn't sure what paint to use for the best results.

20PCS Gas Fuel Filter For STIHL Chainsaw 026 029 034 036 038 039 044 046 066 088 | eBay

Ive used this ebay seller and never had a problem until my last purchase where clearly they had been sent out and made the u.k but not me. Despite emailing them I had no reply and had to do the resolution process through ebay and had money refunded. this week. As said never had an issue before with them and probably a one off.

Most people play safe and just stick a 3 notch headgasket in. When you get the original out it will have a notch/notches on the outside of it somewhere and for each head skim you add 1 notch. All well and good if your head just needs a light skim but heavy skim ideally you want to go up 2.

You wont notice the difference using a 3 notch and playing safe.

I think you can even get a 1.6mm as they are rather prone to going.

If you do do the timing belt mark the pullys with paint or a hacksaw cut. Ive come across more than one where they run terrible on the factory marks, had a 300tdi once that was 2 notches out on the diesel pump mark and that's how it left the factory.

Cant decide which length or type bar to go for on my 044.

Such a simple decision yet I keep changing my mind.

Ive got a ported 357xp with 18" , ported husq 365 with 20" so the obvious thing is 24 or 28. Tbh I don't use it much as the smaller saws are adequate as most of what I cut is under 20" or so.

Then I think why go so big for a saw I don't use much and considering im a tight arse and the extra expense...

Oh decisions decisions

Thought at one point just to try find a second hand 28" on ebay or something but hate the thought of possibly some junk turning up only fit for the scrap pile...

 

Tip: Using an arc set, starting the rod is easier if you strike it like a match, and you pull the rod through your weld - it should sound like bacon sizzling in a pan and you're set up about right.

Using a MIG, you push the wire through your weld

 

Good luck burning stuff

Good tip to remember and so frustrating when you see people doing the opposite and then wander why there weld isn't smooth.

Pretty straight forward job on the 200 lump. Just beware the manifold bolts are prone to snapping on them as soon as you touch them. You can pull the manifold back far enough to get the head off without removing the turbo. I would certainly say change timing belt whilst you have it off, and atleast the 200 hasn't got a superseded belt like the 300 which had rubbing problems as the didn't run true.

Break the crank bolt by the usual breaker bar and crank the engine method.

Engine model could be 3TNV70-STB

Appears your model minidigger suffers from having a small radiator which the fins are prone to clogging up with dust and dirt. Not saying that's the cause but certainly worth checking and keeping an eye on for peace of mind once its sorted out.