Pan

As its so dry you could at the moment. Bear in mind though its in 4ft lengths so probably too short for a timber lorry. I could move it to a hard drive but only if it were worth the effort.

Thanks for comments guys - As I thought pretty worthless, I should of started mixing it in my log loads years ago but now the pile just grows and grows! Surprisingly even the older 10year stuff is still quite sound

Hi all As per title just wondering how much this stack of seasoned softwood is worth? Or, if you are local any offers? This is a stack that has been building over the last 8-10 years. It is mainly Leylandii cordwood and some Pine. I only have a small log round so all of my customers go for the hardwood. The pile is approximately 6ft in depth, 6ft in height and 100ft in length. It is made up of various diameters from 4" up to 24" most of it is in 4ft lengths. I am based between Maidstone and Ashford in Kent. Any comments or advise much appreciated.

Hi Eddie Have you had any luck finding a new chain yet? I been desperately looking for one myself for that machine - but like you keep coming up blank. Let me know if you come up trumps!

It's going to be planted up with wisteria and climbing roses, with a small box hedge running the length of the line of posts - so mowing not to much of an issue.

The posts are tanalised softwood. They did come in rather dark but quite pleased as they suit the property well. I would love to make one out of green oak one day The curved corner braces were for decorative effect only just to soften the structure and stop it looking too square

Hi all Just finished building a large pergola that I thought I would share with you. Posts 5x5 had to buy pre-mortised as I didn't have anything big enough to cut these. Chamfering corners with router. All the rest of the timber was 6x2 and 5x2. Cutting all the notches and shaping the ends with jigsaw. Bandsawing the curved corner braces. Part way up. Finished!

Hi flames - Impressed by your mill and milling, very impressed by your flooring and now having just seen your website seriously impressed by your wood turning! I don't mean to derail the thread too far into wood turning but being a fairly novice turner just wanted to ask you a question about seasoning. When you rough turn your bowls etc from green wood that you have just milled, how long and what techniques do you use to season them to the right moisture content before you remount them on the lathe to turn true and finish? Any help and advice gratefuly received!

Thank you very much for that pricing information Jonathan. Its seems a bit of a minefield out there for the uninitiated a bit like buying a second hand car! Its great to have an idea of a price in mind even if there is a bit of haggling involved! Many thanks again

Hi Jonathan Wow! there are some lovely looking rays in those oak planks. I need to ask your advice on something - I've got a small stack of different timbers to start myself off milling but I'm not bringing much back from my tree work these days as everyone wants to keeep the wood for logs. So I'm thinking of approaching a few local forestry contractors to see if I can buy some sawlogs off them. I've never purchased timber in the round before so I haven't got a clue about how much it's worth. I know the price will be very variable based on quality but could you or anyone else give me a rough guide on the price of different species of sawlogs in the round (rideside). I want to be able to offer a fair price at the same time as not being ripped off! I guess I'm mainly interested in Oak, Ash, Sycamore, Cherry and possibly Walnut. What are these worth per hoppus or cubic foot for an average quality sawlog?

Hello all Nothing taken personally! Just keen to learn from others who know more than me. Andrew - Lovely table! I've never thought of cutting a slab like that on that scale. I've made a few house signs before - similar process but never thought table top size I will give it a go. Alec - The oysters you refer to I think were originally made from Laburnum. I once tried making these and dried them in a box sandwiched between layers of sand - everyone split! perhaps I hadn't cut them at a steep enough angle? Rob - Point taken I will try to be more specific and keep things brief - Oops typing out a long reply again! Jonathan - Keen to hear how you you got on 1/4 sawing today. When you halve your longer logs with the chainsaw mill to take out the pith do you do this by eye? Or do you measure down from each end to ensure you follow the line?

Hi Rob Thanks for reply - interesting to hear how you saw different species, especially how you deal with burr timber. I guess it makes sense when you think about the fact that the best burr will be on the outer layers of a tree. I had hoped that this thread would of created a bit more interest in the milling forum - was it something I said? I guess the rest of the 'Top Dogs' wish to keep their secrets and not pass them onto 'Bottom Sawyers' ! Silly me always thought that was the idea of a forum - exchange of ideas etc.

Hi all - new to this forum and new to milling. I have followed this forum for sometime with interest and thought its about time I joined in. Being a tree surgeon I have good access to lots of different timber and being a keen woodworker have some knowledge with regards to the different properties of wood. I have decided to get into milling in order to utilise my available timber more effectivley. Locally I see so much good timber being wasted for the firewood craze - it breaks my heart! I understand the processes of obtaining tangential boards from plain cuts (through & through). I also understand the process of quarter sawing to produce the more stable radial boards. But are there many variations of the above cuts that suit different species of timber ? Do many of you quarter saw other species than just Oak to bring out the beautiful medullary rays as well as gaining the extra stability ? Do many of you semi quarter saw or produce one square edge timber ie put a breaking cut through the pith of the log and then tangentially saw at right angles to the breaking cut ? What is the best way to saw burrs to reveal there hidden beauty ? How would you saw fruit wood as opposed to say a Yew tree ? Perhaps all of the above is too much hassle and its better to plain saw everything and easier to sticker and stack ? Lots of questions I know, but surely different species have there best features enhanced by choosing the most appropriate cut. Even the most featureless of woods must show different characteristics according to how they are sawn. So come on you expert millers! - can you share some of your secrets to a keen novice who just wants to get the best out of their timber - what are your thought processes when faced with different timbers and how do you get the best out of yours ?