David Dobedoe

I offer a service to help arborists make independent through examinations of equipment an integrated part of how they manage equipment. ( Hopefully more useful than just having someone look through the kit because its a legal requirement but I can do this if that's what you want) This can include advice on equipment selection. For new users and students this can help them make effective choices. For all users its worth factoring manufactures retirement guidelines and quality of documentation in equipment choices. City and Guilds NPTC Level Three Certificate of Competence in the Through Examination of Arboricultural Equipment Professional indemnity insurance with Arborisk

I have a fairly consistent problem with the starting of a 550xp. Most often when others, mostly novice/students use it who perhaps not using the switch as intended. My guess is that they flood it and then its dreadful if not impossible to start. Abandon the saw for a couple of days and attempt to start it 'pops' on first or second pull. Still won't start as it should but will start with the throttle held down. Perhaps this is significant to those of you with more knowledge than me? Smokey once started. I don't think fuel quality/mix is the issue as its one of several saws all on the same fuel. Usually the Husqvarna XP pre mix. Get the saw warmed up and it's fine. Stop and restart whilst hot and its perfect. I'm wondering if the novice users and flooding it is a factor? Perhaps the petrol is evaporating off overnight and then when restarted there is an excess of 2 stroke oil in the cylinder which is the source of the smoke. I know the mk1 550's can be a bit fickle in regards to starting, in this regard ,this is one of the worst saws I've used. If I had to guess the saw would have 100 - 150 hours on it. Anyone seen this before? Any ideas? Thanks David

The boys have killed my Jo Beau M300. The chassis is bent such that the Anvil is pulled out of shape. This means that it cant be adjusted to give a nice uniform gap between the anvil and the blade which in turn means it pulls through chips that are to big and the machine jams. New chassis is approx £1200 and that's before labour and the various parts that would probably be needed for rebuild. So the question is what to do with it? For me and my contacts a chassis repair is a non starter. Risky and expensive. Would approx £2000 be good value for a rebuild? I've been offered cash for the engine so selling the engine and scrapping the rest is an option. Any other ideas? David

Just found the manual, its 60Nm for the blade bolts

I am going to swap the blades on my Beau Jo M300 chipper. Does anyone know the torque settings for the bolts. I'm struggling to find the documentation. Thanks

Happy to give Sam a reference if that helps? D

We are in the process of updating risk assessments for teaching forestry and arboriculture. Does anyone have a risk assessment for teaching rigging that I could have a look at? Is there an AFAG Guide or similar that I have lost track of. Thanks in advance David

I have a colleague who has done a Lantra cross cutting qualification in the past. He is under the impression that it 'runs out' after five years. I understand that refresher training is considered good practice and a requirement for working on forestry commission sites. (Fisa) Does his qualification run out or is he confusing it with good practice. Is there a different or similar story in regards to the NPTC qualifications? Thanks in advance D

Just had a look at the reset instructions. Saw would need to run on 'cold start' for over 30 seconds. I'm lucky to get 10

Yes

201 top handle, starts easy, cuts well but often won't idle after its been started. Tends to settle down if i cut something. Sometimes reving it up up seems to help. It has a new air filter and plug recently. What would be the next steps in sorting it? (And yes I may well send it to Spud)

(I'm no legal expert) If you don't own the trees and didn't do the work I don't understand how the work that has been done could affect you in terms of prosecution. If you buy the land the tree/s were on you perhaps could be accused of the work if or when it comes to light? I would think that the best course of action is for somebody to talk to the tree officer. The issue here maybe that he needs to take action on whoever has been involved with the work which is a bit difficult if they are either going to be your next door neighbour or the people you are trying to buy from. Possibly a better way forward once the tree ownership is clear is for the owner to approach the tree officer with the aim of resolving the situation without prosecution. Mistakes happen and it maybe more in the councils interests to resolve with considered replanting or... I look forward to seeing what others have to say.

Sling round my back with a cross in it. Made a sling to fit with a length of climbing tape and a 'tape knot' works well. Have a tiny rock climbers karabiner to attach it. I like that whilst it has limitations, (knotted sling and non locking karabiner) it fits perfectly and is strong enough to use as a sling and karabiner combination if 'push comes to shove')

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Maybe, but having spoken with both Aborisk and Trust who i understand to be the main suppliers of arboricultural insurance in the uk it would seem that as soon as your in a supervisor role and self employed / sub contractor you are carrying employer type responsibility on site. I flagged this because i suspect it affects quite a few people. Would be keen to hear about exceptions.