Coletti
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Posts posted by Coletti
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Did this with exactly the same mewp, thankfully we were on an mod base and one of their 6x6 lorries with all difflocks on pulled it out a treatI always enjoy working out the story here.
Let’s park it off the road tonight, ready for tomorrow.
Oh-oh! Bit squidgy, reverse it out of here!
Bollocks! Up to its nuts, get some planks.
Get a chain, let’s try and pull it out.
Sod this! Let’s go home, sort it in the morning.
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I've an m500 I need to move on, I need to have a look at it first though. Everything was fine when it went into storage but for some reason the drive isn't working at the moment. I'll see what I can sort of you're interested
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Rotary will be faster and less taxing on the tractor but doesn't leave as good a finish as a flail so depends on the finish you want to leave and how long you want to spend really. Not had a lot ofdealings with rotary toppers but I can say that and 8' flail is plenty enough for a 115hp tractor so you'll need a bit smaller
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If you'd have bought the truck and had it registered then changed body there wouldn't have been an issue. Reaisticaly its no differsnt to any vehicle modifications eg body kit, exaust, engin mods etc and you wouldnt exlect to have to tell vosa about those. A good example would be to look at the length people go to modifying landrovers fpr off road, considerably changing the size and overall weight. I think making something your self is frowned upon but when it boils down to it it all depends on what materials were used and how well it has been put together to be honestTo be fair, my insurance company are only intersested in being informed of the modification, they were not interested in any certificate!
So my vosa guy was gettting a bit excited then was he?
I can understand adding a tailored canopy to a pickup would be ok, but not making something yourself from what i gather.
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I'm afraid you have been slightly miss informened. As a new, unregistered vehicle it has to have type approval when it is registered which yes, does involve the dvsa or dvla (im not entirely sure which it is from memory) but...If a vehicle has already been registered and has its type approval, a body change can be done without the need for another type approval being carried out (weather that be converting from pickup to tray back, pickup to tipper or tipper to heigh sided tipper, makes no difference) provided it is just the body being altered and not the chassis. With regards to weights, all that's needed is a ticket from a weighbridge to submit as proof of what it actually weighs. All of this information I was told by the dvsa and DVLA when I was digging around for informationLet me explain whats happened to me. Back in may i ordered a nissan cabstar double cab tipper. But i did not want the tipper body that nissan were going to supply, i wanted the vfs three way tipper. Vfs use a scattolini tipper, and in fact all nissan single cab dual wheel tippers are fitted with it, but one way only. The single wheel tippers are tipmaster, but for some reason, the double cabs are fitted with something else.
Now, because i am having my own tipper body fitted, albeit a standard off the shelf, fitted to all other single cab cabstars, the vehicle cannot leave the vfs premises and be road registered until it has a certificate of conformity. This has to be done by vosa, who then issue it. Mine was done on 19th december, and i am still waiting, although it may arrive monday.
I happened to query this with a customer who works for vosa, or dsa as they are now called? Who said it applies to any body modification that alters carrying capacity and load bearing, as well as alterations that can alter the structural rigidty of the vehicle.
His comment was thus, most wont bother, but in the event of an accident, or a routine stop check, it will then be flagged up and dealt with depending on the nature of the modification and its intended purpose.
Drilling holes in exisiting factory fitted body to accomodate extension sides would come under this remit,
Converting a dropside to a tipper would also require re calculations as to payloads which need to be indicated on the vinplate, and this can only be done by authorised and approved bodybuilders with input from vosa, in order to achieve a coc!
It's no different to buying something like a single cab ford ranger then fitting a canopy to it. Effectively you've altered both it's size and weight but it doesn't need any approval from dvsa/DVLA to fit said canopy -
Yes you should tell your insurance company but vosa don't need to get involved. Least that's what I was lead to believe when I was digging around a while back. Also...you could have the body removed and a new custom one made and as long as you don't alter the chassis or axle etc then again, no need to involve vosa. Same goes for converting a drop side to a tipperJust to jump on this, making your own chip box is classed as a modification to the vehicle, and therefore your insurance must be notified., but as i have also recently found out, it then needs to have a certificate of conformity, which requires a vosa inspection! -
I've had this 7 times. First time, fair enough...I was an idiot and not wearing any eye protection while grinding. Other 6 times it happened while I was wearing safety glasses and it somehow bounced around and got in there. Worst time was when he put the needle across the wrong side of the magnifying glass (on purpose) I jumped back as it looked like he was putting a 6" nail towards my eye, the doctor was in hysterics hahaI had a bit of red hot steel melt into my eye ball just last week, after a few days went to docs, she jabbed it with an ear bud, now it was sore, said emergency got a&e right away, so i phoned asked the waiting times, eye clinic is shut, anyway found a private clinic so phoned and just asked if someone could get it out, they said we have a specialist and he will stay late, we’ll... went down and this very nice guy had a look, wax a bit concerned as it was deep, so he checked the back of the eye ball, then he said all looks good so look at a point and don’t move your eye, i could feel him in there but no pain, when he got it out, i asked him what it was etc etc and what did he use to get it out, he said, steel, and he used a hyperdermic syringe needle, great job, better safety glasses from now on [emoji106] -
4 cube for chip and 1 cube for the tool locker so minus the tool locker you could have 5 cube. A simple custom tarp keeps everything tidy while chipping
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Thank you, what you have said is much more along my line of thinking (rightly or wrongly).Validation of a S211, really! Well the clock is ticking, and it started ticking from the first full day after the notice was served. If they are not happy they must serve a TPO, because after the six weeks is up you can go ahead and do the notified works. Maybe the council will kick off but they cannot validate the notice as there's no procedure to validate it. It's a notice, not an application.
Of course going through all the hassle of the council threatening prosecution etc might be worse than indulging them. And your client would definitely be pissed off if threatened with prosecution.
See S211(3) TCPA1990
However, you still have the problem that it's not clear what you want to do, which could be different things to you and the tree officer. And that may still result in prosecution.
I'd write to the council along the lines of: I am writing to you to provide a detailed specification in accordance with BS3998 to clarify the specification set out in the S211 notice served on xx/xx/2018 for the tree at (address). (Set out the detailed specification).
It's easier for the tree officer to decide if the works are appropriate, or not if they know what the works are. Reduce in height by 5m means different things for different trees: if the tree's 100m tall it means a finished height of 95m. Not too much loss of amenity. If the tree is 5m it means a finished height of ground level. Total loss of amenity. Same spec, completely different outcomes.
To summarise: You've served notice and the clock is ticking. After six weeks, but before two years, you can undertake the work in the notice unless the trees are TPO'd. The council can't prosecute you for undertaking work in contravention of S211 as it is a defence that you served notice. But, there is a possibility they could prosecute you for exceeding the specified works as it's not clear what you want to do.
I have given them the extra information they have asked for but also highlighted that we are nearly 4 weeks into a 6 week process so I require their decision without undue delay so I'll see where that goes.
I hate to make a deal out of dealing with councils, we all have to do it as part of the job but this particular council is known by many local tree surgeons for being very difficult and to be honest, it's rather annoying as it's completely unnecessary.
I called them not so long ago to check if there were any tpo or conservation area at a property and they refused to tell me until I told them what work I was intending on doing. After explaining I was going to be removing a dangerous roadside beech tree that has kretzschmaria deusta and is falling to pieces and needed to know if I had to submit retrospective planning for the removal or not, they explained they were tempted to rush down and serve emergency tpo's. This I can understand but I don't feel they have a right to refuse me the information I have requested pending a good enough explanation from my self. There were no tpo or conservation area for the property. -
This cost me 4080 all in for the conversion and it will be roughly 1k to have it uprated. Most quotes I got were 6-6.5k +vat just for the conversion so I feel I got it cheap but I have had to make a repair so it's all relative, I do feel 6+vat is asking a little much though but if you can get it converted for 5-6k all in then another 1k for the uprate you'll be about right
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Out of those choices I'd go with echo. The 360tes is a good saw and if all you were doing is big dismantles but I personally find that the 2511 is good for over 90% of the work I do. I have both but the 360 barely leaves the shed any more as I'll usually just switch up to a 550xp if there's anything large to cut.Hi, I’m new here and I don’t like technology much so this may not go right, but here goes.
I am thinking of replacing my Makita top handle saw with either a Echo or an Efco as I get on well with both the local dealers, but I could do with any advice / help offered on what make to buy. The Makita has been a good saw, but is now showing its age (it will be retained as a backup).
Thanks
On the ms150 bar and chain (or panther bar if bought from chainsaw bars which would be my recommendation if you do want to buy one) the 2511 happily handles the 10" bar and that will get you a long way through a tree, take into account it's small size and light weight and it will also do reductions negating the need for a silky and making jobs faster and easier. It's a no brainer for me really-
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Best give them a proper spec, because if the Council has to TPO the trees because of inadequate spec, customer will quite rightly be extremely pissed off with you.
Customer will be pissed off anyway. Notice was submitted nearly 4 weeks ago, first I've heard from them is today and they tell me it hasn't been validated yet despite it being a 6 week process and were nearly 4 weeks in. Where do I stand with that?
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Okay then, so in this case, I have not given enough info or detailed enough spec but what do you say about they last time they kicked up.Sounds like the other Councils are habitually doing it wrong, so now you have encountered one that is doing it right it seems wrong.Best give them a proper spec, because if the Council has to TPO the trees because of inadequate spec, customer will quite rightly be extremely pissed off with you.
My application read "to reduce 5no eucalyptus by up to 3m in height to suitable growth ponts and reduce extended laterals back to inline with the main canopy to suitable growth points" again, in this case they wouldn't validate the notice till they had exact start and finished heights. They argued..."how do we know how much you have taken off if you don't tell us start and finished heights" to which I replied "you will see start height when you make a site visit and you can invisible finished height from there". What they seem to lack is basic common sense in my opinion
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I will guarantee no tpo would ever be served to any of the trees in question so no need to worry about that. My actual suggestion to the client was to fell the sycamore and the oak and 're plant as they are shadowed by the conifers and as such have become far from specimen trees and I can do no more than give my best suggestion
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I'll make a note of that for future applications but what happens when you don't fell and just lop and top? Technically you haven't done what you applied for and they would have required much more info to make their decision if that's what you actually wanted to do.If you want to lop or top it, just inform the intention to fell, if the tree's no great thing.
Saves loads of aggro and discussion.
Frustrating thing is that with any other council I deal with, this spec would be fine, get validated immediately and any additional info would be requested following a site visit (which has never happened).
Admitidly the spec is somewhat vague and in unspecified but that reflects what the trees I have been asked to work on are like. If there was actually any worth to any of the trees I'd put a much more detailed spec in
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Had they bothered to make a site visit they would see that none of the trees are even close to worthy of a tpo but they haven't seen the site yet. Hence my gripe at them asking for additional detail that will be irrelevant to their decision, utter waste of time to be honestIf a tree is worthy of TPO, but the work you are doing is acceptable, then no TPO is needed, so they do need a pretty accurate spec of the intended work.-
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Thank you both. They haven't even made their site visit yet and I feel if they had, they wouldn't be asking questions but this seems to be the way they work.
I'm aware that "topping"and "pollarding" arent the correct way to go about things but on the other hand...some situations call for just that.
I've had issues in the past when I applied to reduce 5 eucalyptus. My spec was "reduce 5no eucalyptus by up to 3m in height to suitable growth points and reduce extended laterals back to inline with the main canopy" they came back with " we require exact start and finished height before we can validate the notice". That to me is asking for too much info for a 211 considering they just have to decide if the trees in question meet criteria for a tpo or not.
I will have to supply the info they want as they won't validate the notice till I have. I'm just trying to gauge if what they are requesting is over the top or weather I'm just being pedantic about it.
No other councils I deal with ask for that amount of info for a 211, they just use common sense when they make a site visit and I'm not alone in finding them difficult to deal with. -
Hello all and happy New year.
Could anyone shed any light on the detail required for a 211 notice?
It's my understanding that a basic description is all that's required as the work you wish to carry out has no bearing on weather the tree in question meets their criteria for a TPO or not.
As meeting the criteria for a TPO is the only way they can refuse consent...an exact spec won't change that.
The notice that's currently being questioned is to top a row of conifers by 50%, pollard a sycamore and reduce an oak. All are part of a scrappy hedge row that's be left untouched for some time and they say I need to specify exact start and finished height for topping the hedge and pollarding the sycamore and also require start and finished height and spread for the reduction. From my own experience, this sort of detail has only been requested when applying to carry out work to trees with a TPO.
Am I wrong in thinking they are asking too much detail for a 211 notice? Or do they actually need additional detail to make a decision?
I'd like to add that I regularly deal with 5 or 6 different councils and this is the only one that kicks up a fuss like this.
Thanks in advance and apologies for the rant.
George
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I'd say steel posts on the corners as that's easiest and cheapest way for atachment to steel bed then slot the planking in aluminium channelMorning guys,
has anyone got some decent ‘during photos’ of making they’re own arb body with the aluminium planking?
I see different ways of it being attached, some steel frames, some alli.
Cheers ? -
Yeah I've seen and torque figure seems low on the spec sheet but is rated to the same size holes. I've been reading into torque figures listed on drills and there's a difference between what's listed in the spec sheet and what you'll actually get in the field. Hard torque (maximum with no load) is what's always listed but soft torque (what is achievable under sustained load) is what counts for this sort of application and is often a fraction of the listed torqueI think milwaukee do a drill hawg but its only 18v, not sure if it will have the torque of the makita; its got 136Nm in low gear -
Interesting you say that, I'm currently making a winch using a harken winch (similar to the one in the picture) and had thought my 18v milwauke fuel drill may do the trick but maybe not. I'll have a look what milwaukee have on offer for angle drills in 18v as I've already got the batteries. That being said...I quite fancy the new dolmar 18v top handle so may be better investing in the drill you havehttps://www.honeybros.com/Item/GRCS_Winch_Driver_Bit
I had the adapter for a while, I had tried it with an 18v drill and it didnt have the torque -
Where did you get the adapter from?Ended up buying the makita and its fantastic; smooth, massively powerful and just so easy. Just have to be careful as there isn't the feed back you get when using the handle.
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They are quite expensive new but do come up reasonable price second hand from time to time. Best thing to do is look on eBay for "self tailing winch" "yacht winch" or "harken winch". I'll probably do the same to be honest, just for now I have a specific job in mind.Yea forgot about that bit about unwinding the endless rope puller I bought.. pain in the arse..
anyway, I think I'll get one myself. make it into my own version of the GRCS.... if I'd known such a thing existed I'd of got one instead of the endless rope winch... well maybe not, I use that for pulling stuff on my trailer...
I'm not knocking the rope puller, it's a good bit of kit and certainly has it's uses and no regrets what so ever with it but for the jobs at hand it would just be too slow and fiddly-
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The harken winch is what's on the GRCS although the one I have bought is the harken 35 whereas I believe the GRCS has the 40 so it's a little smaller and it's self tailing so no need to tend with one hand, just wind away with the drill.I'm a bit confused, thats not much different than the winch I showed that you said you already had..
I mean I realize you can use a drill to speed things up but by how much?.. then, I presume you have to keep one hand one the rope to tend and one on the drill.. I think you'll last ten minutes before you get sick of that to be honest..
If your asking me I'd bite the bullet and get a petrol powered two stroke winch.. that way you've two options when it comes to winching, the small lightweight one for when you need such a thing and the petrol one for when you might be there all day hauling stuff up banks and such...
Now havin said that, that winch looks pretty handy in its own right.. you could say its a poor mans GRCS.. put a bit of weld on there and make it so you can stick it on a tree..
how much are they?...
It will be much faster winding in with the drill and even faster still letting the line out again as you just unwind the wraps rather than fiddling with the ratchet to let the line out again.
I'll have to make a cradle but that's easy enough and hopefully, for the jobs I have lined up, it should suit as a viable replacement for a petrol capstan winch, a little slower yes but a he'll of a lot cheaper. The harken 35 I've got was second hand but barely used and cost me £183. Few quid for some steel to make a cradle plus a drill adapter and it'll come in at less than 250 -
I am, had one since its release. It's a cracking saw with lots of grunt, not exacyly an all day ground saw (50cc would be better) but for medium to large ground jobs and blocking down stems etc it excells. Keeps with the husky 576xp and less weight. Always get comments from subbies about how good it seems. Not had any issuesAnyone running an echo 620.
Interested to hear how its holding up.-
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Tiny echo!
in Chainsaws
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