Stubby

Look . The only way is up (pardon the pun )for a new Husky climbing saw and if the totally bonkers 560 is anything to go by it will be it will be exceptional ! Lets face it all the others were pants .

The dogs dangelys and some

Yea it will be good . I got a 560 and that is bonkers ! but I soon will have my 346 back with a "spud tune " with all the porting and squish etc etc so I'm gonna hang on !

Never broken a girly button but the guys who blank em off bust allot more starter ropes .

I would say take the saw you are used to , if that's your mates , so when they ask you to spin off the clutch and mess with the power mate rim you will be familliar with it . If you got a really sharp chain he will most likely tap a few of the cutters with something to dull them off so you will have to sharpen up any ways. Husqvarna 346XP gets my vote etc etc . Good luck with your course .

Hi. As some people keep saying dry wood is dry wood . If you use dry , seasoned wood as a constant then some woods will have a higher calorific value than others .However all dry , seasoned wood will burn . I might be mistaken but I think hickory has the best calorific value but beggers can't be choosers . Keep it dry season it for as long as you can and keep warm . Simples .

My Hydraulic one is "far eastern" .. It has a double acting ram with a wedge with a cutting edge both sides , anvill (splitting face) each end . 20t force . All I did was covert it to road towing with suspension and road tires. Must bee no more than £1400 tops . Its not as fast as my screw type but it has never not split any thing . I liked the design where you can put a ring on each end so you don't wast the return stroke .

Hi I have some pop , nice strait bits about 6 to 8 in dia . so one slit and its done . well seasoned . Never burnt it before but have heard its no good for open fires as it spits . anyone confirm that ? If it does I will put it with my eucaliptus and cherry and keep it for stoves only .

Sir Frank Whittle was thinking along the lines of a jet powered saw but the war got in the way .

Yea ! double acting piston with a super heated steam feature . I think you have cracked it !

Is there any were to put a nuclear reactor ? you could put were the air filter was then you could cut for the next 300 years stopping ! Sorted .

That should be in the national gallery ! You have missed your calling

Waiting to try the Husqvarna T540 . All other Husky climbing saws have been pants I know but somehow I think this will be different My new Husky 560 ground saw is a complete loony ! If the T540 is any thing like as good I want one !

Hi . The key here is what Spud says "aluminium transfere " Don't just fit a new piston and rings without cearfully cleaning the pot . If you don't you will be back in the same boat almost at once . Good luck .

With a screw type Assuming its a clockwise rotation ,you should always keep your left on the ring and keep your right back so that should it flip it will flick your left hand off and not trap your right . Having said that you should only need a momentary push on the ring and then you can let go as the screw will pull the ring on itself . Simples !

Hi Matt. I have two types a cork screw type and a hydrulic ram type . The cork screw is by far the quickest especially on big rings as you cake almost solit it like you were cutting a cake . If yopu only have a max dia of 15 inches it probably does not mater which you go for . If you have a tractor yuc can use then a cork screw such as a "high crack" or similar would be good . You only need a ford 4000 or Fergie 35 set at just over tick over speed and there is so much torque they will spit anything . Regards Andy .

I am a husky man I admit ( save for my 200t) but I have never been more struck by a saw first time out than this one . I revs like a loony . I changed the power mate rim from a standard 7 to an 8 slot and the chain speed is - - shall we say a bit fast . There is a rooster tail of chip coming off. You godda try one if you can .

If you want a 60cc saw there is only one in my book, The new Husky 560 is totally bonkers . you must at least try one , please .

If he doesn't injure himself and gets as far as breaking sweat the sparckel of the idea will soon fade. I assume he is talking it terms of felling and not just walking around picking up dead wood an wind blow ? When he gets his bar stuck and one leans back and or hung up in the next tree etc etc you know all the probs Then ask him if he would consider a deal on the timber ?

When I take mine in its always something he call the "pump piston" It has only been expensive on an earlier 200t that did not have that part that was replaceable. Then it needed a new carb with the bit that you can replace instead of a whole new carb . I know what I mean anyway .

NGK I find are the best for reliability and long life. Bosh are not bad but the ones badged Oregon are pants . I have an 02 Husqvarna 357 and I think its on the same plug as was in it when I got it . Although lots of people on here have said don't do it - - I have wire brushed it up a few times and re set the gap . Ho hum

Yae , like I said thumb nail thickness !

I know this is the wrong answer but I usually change it when it stops running. A wire brush up and reset the gap (thumb nail thickness ) sometimes gives you more time .

Mine is a goodun no danger . It seems so much lighter than my 357 . And loads more razz and grunt . For me its an out and out winner

It would be extreemly roude of the not to !