Stubby

Just a thought - - How tiered is your 346 ? If you talk to spud he could breath on it for you . He did mine . He ported it improved the squish tuned it with a taho to max out at 14400 to 14600 rpm with the plug giving the correct coloure . It is now way more efficient with more zing, more grunt and runs an 8 pin power mate sprocket on a 15" bar with no problems . Totally reliable starts every time hot or cold and dare I say it a pleasure to use . More use than my new 560xp at the moment ( another story ) - - -

Had mine 2 months now, fine at first on a 15" bar .. Now cutting out under load on an 18" bar in big ash . It just shuts its self down it seems . Is there a fix anyone ?

Had mine a couple of months now and been well impressed untill today ! Started paying up . Been using it with a 15" bar with no problems . Went up to an 18" and worked it hard in some big ash we felled . Just cross cutting thats all but using the full width of the bar and it just dies. It happened six times. Its like it just shuts down . Perhaps I have one of the early ones . We shall see as its going back this weekend .

Spud will know . Just ask him .

I have a 560 so have the same tensioner design . All I can think is the taper on the peg that engages with the hole in the bar is not fully home when you do the adjustment so when you finally tighten the bar nuts the taper pushes in deeper pushing the bar forward just enough to tighten the chain too much . To overcome this ( if it is this ) you need to have the cover almost tightened , just loose enough to make adjustment but only just .

Nasty busines

Husvarna with different coloure/shape plastics baisicly >

Rim is a better design as it floats so accounts for any missalignment of the chsain . Spur does not . Just get your money back and get Orange and silver .

That will be the needle roller bearing then ?

If its 1.3 (narrow kef) The husqvarna "pixal" chain will fit . If its 1.5 wide bar groove I have heard it said you can use either but not the other way round as a 1,5 will bind in a 1,3 wide bar groove .

I had the same on a Husqvarna 357. It was never enough to investigate but just enough to mildly irritating ! Sorry I can't help !

I can assure you if you get a 560 you won't be dissapointed . Mine is stonkig . Had it a month or so now . Best 60cc saw I ever had . End of .

Any decent engineering supplier or to hard ware stoe . Most of them are 5mm screws except for the cylinder bolts which are old bsf imperial size . Any oner who works in an engineering tool room will have shed loads for mould tools .

I was anti primer bulb to start with , thought it might get punctured but it never has and I would not be without one now - for all the reasons above .

I Have the very last of the D22 Navara and I too was worried about the rod going through the side on no 3 cylinder ( it seems to be that one ) I was told there was a bad batch of con rod bolts on a small percentage of trucks , of course that is a lot of trucks , even though a small percentage . If you have good bolts and change the oil and filter every 6000 its a goodun. Luckily mine is . It pulls the chipper ( 8" Jensen 540A ) up hill in 4th . It pulls over large trees that lean away from the gob and is great in the mud with some 40 road 60 off road rubber . I pulled the mistubishi canter with a full wet chip box and hooked up to the chipper off a wet sea of mud using low ratio . I can't fault it .

I have heard that the cage is plastic ? ? I could be wrong . ( Husqvarna man my self ) but maybe there is a bearing from another saw , be it Sthil or whatever , that has the usual metal cage tjat would fit/have the same dimension ?

I would think that the original spec one would work best but ask spud anyways . He knows loads .

Was it genuine ( OEM ) Husqvarna pot and piston or a cheap after market one ? If it was a chineese one it wont last the day ! If its a Husqvarna one then maybe the carb wants looking at . Ask spud . he will know .

Agreed . The saw spud has worked on for me is totally usable and totally reliable . Starts second or third pull from cold and first pull from warm/hot. will idle all day if thats what you want . Pick up is instant mid range is good and is generally more efficient . Steve has set it up with a tacho to max out at 14400 to 14600 rpm with the plug giving the correct coloure . He burried it in some common oak and tached it in the cut at arround 1200rpm this being where some saws max out not under load .I put an 8 pin rim on to give even more chain speed but it might be better with a 7 and rely on the torque . Have yet to do a comp . It seems to pull the 8 fine though . Went through some holme oak yesterday like a goodun. It is most definately way better than standard and well worth the money . Provided you use good quality mix and keep the fuel fresh it will give good service for a good many years . ( 15" bar full pointy chain )

Sorry should have said adjust , then tighten .

Tighten it finger tight , hold saw by back handel drop the bar tip onto a tree but , log or similar this will push it up .now tighten . This works with any type of saw .

That's a .243 deer rifle not an old Husqvarna .

What if you got a richochet from your .243 and accidently killed the farmer on the ladder with his top handle saw . ? ? ?

The Rolls Royce of bars in my opinion but as you say pricey . Used alot by the loggers in North America and Canada I know . Its like anything now -adays you gets what you pay for . If you wanna pay for a Cannon Super bar you will have the best .

Get a second hand 346 and get SPUD to breath on it . He did mine and its " stonki'n "