Jane_Whitt

Root system Our native oaks have developed adaptations to survive the long summers, dry most of California. Senior survival is the development and characteristics of its root system. When an acorn sprouts first, there is a rapid development of roots and very little growth above ground. This initial root is a taproot extending to great depth of reliable moisture. In fact, the tree of the early focus on establishing a maintenance system with deep roots. Once this has happened, more foliage on the ground and the growth takes place. As the oak grows, the root is cured with an extensive system of lateral roots extending horizontally from the trunk to and beyond the drip line, sometimes as much as 90 feet. For a mature oak, this horizontal root system is the mainstay of the tree to the rest of his life. Includes very important roots that absorb moisture and nutrients. Most of the roots occurs within three feet of soil. In shallow soil, root system is concentrated in one area even more superficial, one to two meters below the surface. As a mature oak, especially in areas naturally dry in summer, deep vertical growth of the roots of the shape of the sides, usually within ten feet of the trunk. These roots lead exploit more soil moisture and stability to an increasingly massive tree. By the time a mature oak has established its root system so elaborate and designed for your environment and particular site conditions, which has lost the vigor of youth. It is less tolerant of changes and less easily retrieved to support a fully developed structure of life. To protect a mature oak, with special attention to drainage, and avoid filling, trenching, or paving near the root zone. IRRIGATION Native oaks require little or no supplemental irrigation generally healthy and stay on dry soils. COVERS Earth and other materials placed on top of natural ground level, called fillers, are usually packed. They make the soil less permeable, which restricts or prohibits the exchange of gases and water movement. Excess moisture trapped by filling and also the root cause crown rot. Because there is no guarantee that full security can be added with about an oak, it is best to avoid manipulation of the natural grade, or to leave the natural grade in the root zone alone and use retaining walls . Optimal treatment under the tree is to place a 4-inch layer of shredded bark mulch on the soil surface. Ideally, the least expensive, pieces of bark contains a wide range of particle sizes up to 2.3 inches of sawdust pieces. Less effective and more expensive, bark mulches have been selected for a uniform site, may come from recycled wood chips or strips are made of redwood bark, and these are not generally recommended. Place no more than 4 - inches and not immediately put in the trunk. LANDSCAPING If under oak landscape you want to be kept to a minimum to avoid a negative impact on tree health. Avoid extensive landscaping, lawn, especially the herbaceous ground cover, annual and perennial flowers that require heavy irrigation. Select your place plants that tolerate shade and dry soil conditions. Many beautiful species of native plants and species from other Mediterranean regions of the world, will thrive in these conditions. Do not water the plants or within 10 feet of the trunk, under any circumstances. Between 10 feet and the edge of the plant canopy drip line to use accents in place of cover crops. Drip irrigation just to get new plants established, and only then periodically during the warmer summer months. An ideal development scenario includes the installation of the plants in late fall and root systems to establish in the winter months. During the first growing season using drip irrigation system for watering at least three at a time possible a month or less. In the following years a month or less watering during the hottest months is to keep plants healthy, vigorous and attractive if they have been carefully selected. Paving and soil compaction on the root system can be extremely harmful and can cause distress and decay. The covers are an excellent way to create a usable outdoor space under native trees. FERTILIZATION Native oak trees rarely require fertilizing, especially if they have been bitten. If the foliage is mottled, or lacks a deep green, light fertilization with nitrogen fertilizer can be beneficial. Soil testing by a local soil laboratory testing is the best way to determine soil fertility. PRUNING Pruning is not usually necessary in native oaks, except to correct structural problems or to remove dead wood. The elimination of more than 10% of live foliage at any given time can be detrimental to the tree. Excessive pruning or thinning of the extremities can expose inner branches of the damage the sun can stimulate the tree to produce new succulent growth that is subject to mold, and in some cases, can cause a decrease in force or can kill a tree. Only dead branches, weakened, diseased or dangerous should be removed. Pruning must be done during the winter dormant. Robles have been pruned by a qualified arborist certified to maintain their health and structural integrity. SIGNS OF TROUBLE Any of the following symptoms may indicate a serious problem. If you notice any of the following symptoms, contact a trusted arborist to determine a course of action: • thin cover or open, sparse foliage, fall foliage • mottled yellow and small foliage • dead or dying branches or foliage • dense and short shoots on branches and / or trunk • caries or cavities in the trunk or large branches • yeast stops working, mushrooms shelf in the trunk or root collar • wet patches, pus, or mucus in the trunk or limbs

Copper Beech Tree Tips: A variety of European beech tree copper beech (Fagus sylvatica purpurea) produces stunning deep purple foliage or copper. Available in a regular array and a way to mourn, the copper beech makes an attractive landscape specimen. Usually reaches a height of only 50 feet, weeping varieties rarely 10 feet. The silver bark provides winter interest and nuts are a source of wild foods. Planting Location The beech tree copper is resistant to cold U.S. USDA Zone 4. Choose a planting site that provides the soil with good drainage. The tree prefers slightly acid soil - does not grow well in clay soils and miss often. Locate the tree in full sunlight for best color. The tree can grow in partial shade, but to maintain deep purple or copper that requires full sunlight or the leaves start to turn slightly green. Avoid planting in areas you hold the salt spray. The tree of copper has not tolerate any form of salt. Even the de-icing salt can kill the tree, according to Floridata. Water needs The beech tree copper required to develop a moist until completely established. Once established, can tolerate a limited time of drought. A heavy drinker, the tree consumes large amounts of water when the temperature is hot. The tree should be well-drained soil and tolerates no roots moist at all, according to the University of Connecticut. In areas with exceptionally hot summers, as in USDA zones 7 more, the tree does not thrive and often die. The copper beech is heated much more sensitive than other varieties of beech trees, according to Floridata. Pests and Diseases Only a few pests bother the copper beech. The tree may have powdery mildew. Its new growth often suffers the invasion of the colonies of aphids. Hosing the tree with a heavy water spray or using a pesticide usually take care of aphids. Keep the tree with regular water and fertilizer will help prevent blisters. Because the copper beech tree is a variety of European beech tree, which does not suffer from disease such as American beech bark you often. Disadvantages As the copper beech tree ages often develop large surface roots that make growing around the base of the tree difficult. The branches of copper beeches often extend into the soil or cry down to sweep the floor in the varieties to mourn. Seldom grown grass under the trees. The tree emits shoots around the base that must be removed quickly to keep the overall look of the tree.

Introduction: Hedges provide privacy and beauty in the landscape. Many trees are well suited for hedges, but selection of a tree should take into account the specific purpose of coverage and the growing conditions in the desired location. Check the individual tree species characteristics and needs of the site. A homeowner who want to plant a hedge must be a commitment to do major maintenance. In fact, the trees, if collected properly, it can be a means to cover low maintenance if space is available. Remember that you will have to devote much more space to a tree in the bushes. Meet the requirement of minimum distance tree can be found at your nursery. Deciduous trees in detection coverage usually offered only during spring / summer growth. Evergreens, both broad and narrow leaf are effective for the entire year of coverage. Sometimes a tree in flower is desirable. These trees can be pruned periodically, but should be allowed to grow in their natural informal way. Planting: The planting space required will vary with the type of tree and the purpose of coverage. For the most part, you have to allocate space to a tree in the bushes. Keep in mind the requirement of minimum tree. Conifers used for the screen height, which require little pruning and should be spaced about six feet away. The trees untrimmed hedges or informal must be separated a bit more if you plant hedges trimmed. To ensure a thicker cover, place the plants in a double row. Education and care: Trees do not have training and pruning, and shrubs. Most trees can not be rejuvenated by pruning back to ground level. Trees do not fill well when he led - and the majority should not be covered. Shrubs grow to fill the coverage much faster than trees. Since trees take longer to fill the space and planted further, the initial planting may seem little and take several years to look like you want. Patience is a necessity. You have to give a tree that needs time. Recommended trees for windbreaks and privacy hedges: Abies concolor or white fir, grows to 65 '- A large evergreen tree with silvery blue green. It is not as strong as other evergreen trees of great size. American Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis or: grows to 30 '- Useful for windbreaks or screens. Do not use in dry heat conditions. Amur maple Acer or ginnala: grows to 20 '- dense and compact, requires very little pruning. Useful for protection against wind and big screens. Tsuga caroliniana Carolina Hemlock or: grows to 60 '- dense evergreen compact. The use of windbreaks or screens. Cornelian cherry or Cornus mas: grows to 24 '- small yellow flowers in early April. Dense and compact small tree. Red fruits are produced in summer. You might even consider a dogwood or Cornus florida common. American beech or Fagus grandifolia: grows to 90 '- Dense compact tree. Useful for windbreaks or screens. They can be difficult to transplant. They tend to be expensive. American Holly Ilex or opaque: grows to 45 '- Espinosa broadleaf evergreens. The fruit is colorful. Winter can be injured in the northern areas.