yebaws

I have the underneath bolts out already. To remove the ram from inside the splitting box, I undid the bolts on outside end of it (on the bot that pushes the logs) Then realised that these had been welded on the inside and undoing them didn't release the hydraulic ram arm anyway. Your method of detaching the ram from the main frame and taking it out with the plate was going to be my next approach. The top of the pin, however, is welded onto the frame which was why I wondered if this was the right approach. but I suppose I'll just have to grind through the weld and re-weld when I put it back. Will take some photos. Don't think I'll have any guards in the way. Thanks for the manual. I have that one anyway. Was just wondering if there was a workshop version (for service people rather than consumers)

Actually, could really do with some help with that...can't see a way to get the infeed plate / splitting box out without cutting through a weld somewhere or taking apart a lot of hydraulics. Is there a workshop manual Calum H?

ditto. Sounds more or less like what I was planning. Thanks for all your help. Just have to work out how to detach and re-attach the ram from inside the splitting box...

Please do share here. Might do that while I'm working on it. Likewise Fisherman if you could post a photo of your re-inforcement. Calum H, my machine infeed looks pretty much identical to the images of Fishermans on page 2 of this thread - a wedge shaped gap between the static and moving plates (that's not just perspective) and that thin bit of metal underneath the plate in the second picture is bent in the same way. Infeed plate should be released just by undoing the bolts on the nylon blocks underneath?

Thanks, yes that looks like the problem I have. No log lift on mine, I think the damage was caused just by dropping heavy logs on the platform. Seems like a bit of a design weakness as others have had the same issue. I reckon I'll straighten it and weld on a bit of angle iron to reinforce. How did you get on with yours? Was it a lot of work to take apart and put back together?

I have an issue with my wp36, which I wonder if anybody can help me with? Plan to have a proper look at it when I have time over the next few days, but somebody here may have had the same problem which would make my diagnosis quicker... Last couple of times I have used it, I noticed that the infeed conveyor (ie the metal plate underneath the uncut log that feeds it towards the saw) is jamming frequently after splitting the cut logs. It only returns when I lift it at the operators end. Seems to me that there is more play in it than there should be. When you look along the infeed plates ("pull table" it's called in the manual) there is a gap along the middle where the two plates meet in a V. This gap is at least twice as wide at the infeed end than it is at the cutting end, so the plates are not parallel, which I'm guessing is causing the jamming. There's a steel plate at the infeed end that I'll need to remove to get a proper look at what's going on. I'm hoping that I will just be able to tighten something up but, as I say, would appreciate hearing from anybody else who might have had this problem. Thanks!

but now I see that the new ps-32 has some sort of "tool less chain tensioning facility" which looks a bit mickey mouse and people say doesn't stay tight. <<sigh>>

Thanks for the advice. See that Dolmar is made by Makita, so can't be bad.

umm, not sure I like the reviews of the husky 236. Shame because I like the x torq. More inclined now towards the STIHL MS170. Smaller engine, shorter 12" bar and another £20 but I think it will last longer. Another 30 yrs would be good...

Sorry, my mistake efco had a 14" bar and that's what I'm after as a repalcemnet

My efco 131 18" saw (I would guess 30yrs old) has finally died. I have a husky 365x torq that I use for most heavy work, but found the smaller saw really useful for pruning and smaller felling because it is so light. It won't have heavy usage so I don't want to spend a fortune, but don't want to buy a pup either. I reckon I'm looking at around £130 for a husky 236, which actually doesn't sound too bad. But there are cheaper saws out there with similar specs. False economy? Any advice appreciated.

Thanks for all of the replies. Plenty for me to think about. I have been using a 1:50 mix and Husqy oil. Air leak is a possibility, but I have also changed the carb at some point along the way which I would have thought would have fixed that (unless the new one failed also and the carb is the weak link). Usually fairly careful with my oil mixes, filling a 5l can with unleaded measured at the garage pump and then measuring out the oil carefully in a measuring jug. Actually, when I mixed The last batch the can felt a little lighter when I picked it up to add the oil. Maybe I had already taken some fuel out of that one? But that would mean making a thicker mix which would presumably just increase smoke and decrease performance rather than causing overheating? So far I'm liking the sound of the 365 xt. Yes, I think my saw may have been under powered for the bar length. Interested that the consensus seems to be Husky 'though. No Sthil fans out there?

I cut a lot of wood in stacks (saw continuously running at full throttle). I've just melted my third piston so am looking for a replacement that might last better under these conditions. My Husky has actually been a fairly good saw. I've had it maybe 12 years and it's served me well. Maybe 3 pistons is what one would expect to go through in that time? The last replacement (piston / cylinder assembly) I bought wasn't a genuine husky part as buying the genuine part would have made the saw pretty much a write off, so maybe I got what I paid for that time. (It didn't last as long as the other two). Anyway, I'm interested to here what everybody suggests as a replacement saw of a similar size as I'm calling time on this one. Lets say money is no object (although I suspect it will be...)

need a few more people round here with log boilers - they're all going for woodchip or pellet now...

Highlands of Scotland (outer space so far as some couriers are concerned). I suppose the problem with a towable processor is that it won't easily go into a lorry as a part load...

Don't know if we can put links on here... If it's the one I can see it's pto driven (I think, although he doesn't say) and not towable

I know, I know. Kick, kick. He said it was 2011. Just anybody let me know if they have something to sell see something that fits the bill please...

I was watching that one and nearly bid - only problem for me was the 20%vat on top (I'm not vat registered) and the cost of getting it the 600 or so miles from Suffolk to me...). I'm still slightly kicking myself 'though... Yes, they hold their value well, but dealers have to have their cut so my fairly extensive experience of bargain hunting tells me that a private sale will be a better buy, especially if I can avoid the dreaded vat. I'll keep hunting!

Thanks. Have already tried these guys. Dealers seem to be a bit pricey for second hand machines IMHO.... Was hoping that somebody here might have a machine to sell...

Must be towable and self powered and ideally in Scotland / N.England. Please PM me if you have anything....

do you have the wp30 or wp36?

Hi Rob, Thanks for that. Is it easy enough to drop cut logs that need more splitting straight into the splitting chamber?

Does the lifter ever fail to take the weight of a cord? And how easy is it to clear a jam from the splitter? Thanks for the offer of a try. I'm in the Scottish Highlands so unfortunately nowhere near....

Thinking about buying one of these and would be grateful for some feedback from somebody who has one (rather than somebody selling them:001_smile:). I'm working with some fairly heavy cords (3m, 14" diameter waterlogged) and need to cut to 50cm lengths. I'm wondering particularly if the timber lifter and splitter is up to it. These models seem to be cheaper than many and my budget is tight, but I don't want to buy a goose.... Thanks.

This had occurred to me as you seem to pay a lot more for an engine. Even a beat up old tractor (as long as the engine and pto are good would do...