billpierce

one piece of oak for seat then the bit the hinge fits to at the back has the grain running the other way i.e seat grain runs front to back, bit at back left to right as you look at it.

was a piece of oak been cut for a couple years but knocking around yard in rain, so i'd guess 25%

if your going for 1 piece of wood keep it good and chunky i would say!

made this from oak. bit too green so split a bit but works fine. 2'', thick, carving chainsaw, sander, 180 grit finish, tung oil x8 coats. the hinges are annoying but prob ok if your good at hinges.

i'll give it a go! oh and the rails have enough depth thanks

i have had this exact same problem and are yet to solve it. it has on an elderly husky bar and what spud says about splayed rails was my conclusion as i like you it was happening on a new chain.

my bar looks good with a steel ruler against it and right angle on the rails but when buried in a cut catches and feels like its really badly burred.

do you reckon the bar has been around for a good bit?

different insurers?

very sorry you had stuff nicked. its horrible that it happens.

i'd like to mention that not everything that get nicked should immediately be blamed on travelers.

go on then, explain why you would do that?

Bit of a gamble though: Ive had hiluxs since 1990 oil & filters changed every 5000 miles also props greased, they never carry more than half a ton, don't get thrashed up and down the motorway and do little off road in 4 wheel drive. I take mine to around the 250,000 mile mark and they still run like a gold watch. If the said pick had done around the 100,000 mile mark then its not a gamble , but at that mileage and not knowing its history makes it a gamble. imo

aye you wouldn't really want to pay top dollar for one with 250k on it. if though reckon its a bargain then your ok. they seem pretty resellable whatever condition!

yep my hilux has done 310k and still going strong so i wouldn't let 250k put you off. depends i recon on final cost. i think i would be tempted to get an old bj or hj pickup if i had cash sloshing about.

i know its a petrol but this is class

thats a good price there are coils on ebay that are double and triple that price

just put dolmar part number 181 143 204 in google search

this coil was used in lots of makitas and some dolmars around 46cc to 50cc its a red coil

around mar 2010 some models where upgraded to a black coil part number

181 143 205 from an orignal makita parts lists :thumbup:

would either fit or do i need to stick to the red? guess that means you won't be able to get one any cheaper then?

thanks

bill

doesn't look like it

Have you checked the coil-flywheel gap? It should be about a business card space between.

But no spark is no spark, sounds like your coil is dying!

yeah checked the gap its cock on. thanks

new coil £115 from makita!

That would be pig rich if it was caused by the carb adjustment - but it really sounds like your coil either is limited way too low down, or otherwise defective.

plug looked fine so sadly i reckon the coil is goosed. is there anything i haven;t checked?

i used an ms170 for 4 years with a husky357xp/ stihl ms361 for blocking out. this was fine and i got it second hand for £30 and had no real issues with it. nice and light.

i would however not bother buying it new and would save up for a pro model light 35cc saw. i have just bought a backhandle dolmar ps3410 which is very similar to an stihl ms200 which is a robust and lightwieght saw. you can get a dolmar for about £320 or pay a bit more and get it with a carving bar. i'd speak to shavey on here about it. however i have only just got it and it runs very well, is very powerful and wieghs about 3.5kg with bar and chain.

there are also echo equivilents cs360 back handle looks pretty tempting also but have never used this.

personally i would say that the 211 is quite close in power and size to a 181 and would again suggest saving slightly more and getting a pro saw 50-60cc and i would say this does not HAVE to be a stihl or husky (although they are great) and would def look at makita/dolmar/echo. seriously, if i had to replace my saws tomorrow i would be getting them. not sure if you were suggesting getting both saws or just one. honestly unless your doing alot of massive things you'll survive with one saw for a bit, particularly if you don't mine swapping bar and chains from carving to rollernose for big deep hot cuts!

have fun and keep asking questions!

i have also tried the coil with the wee wire going to the switch disconnected to see if this if its earthing somewhere to no avail.

so, it was running ok but like i say max rpm 10-11.5k no load with b and on, it was a bit wierd on full throttle with no load like it missed a fire from time to time, but this disappeared when in the cut. so i thought this was just the limited coil.

so yesterday i leaned it slightly but the rpm went down, so i richened to beyond the point it was at and it also went down. so i put it back to exactly where it was. and thought that would do. but was slightly bothered by it.

then i checked plug colour which was fine, but then there was no spark!

i have checked the connection from wire to spark plug which is good, and have aslo checked the other wires and there is no faults i can see. i also rechecked the coil gap and connections around coil and all seems fine, the flywheel is sat on its spline ok too. from the spark cap to earth reads 1.3 ohms which is significantly lower than on another saw i tried which was around 10. have i gone mad/or broken something, or has the coil been breaking down and now has gone?

as per usual i appreciate all the advice

my brother in law has a RAV4 and rates it. i've been in it a good bit and it easy gets 50mpg not just on a run. its a diesel d4d one. who knows could be good?

Ah, that's the devils lead - the saw won't work on a Sunday with a red lead:001_rolleyes:

just my luck! seems to be running better in fresh fuel.

I'm going to go out on a limb here but... Have you checked the flywheel position and coil gap? The flywheel key may have sheared or fallen out or the coil gap may be too large, retarding and limiting the ignition to 8k rpm

i'll check, thanks

right, took exaust off and gasket was the wrong side od the heat shield. popping as stopped. wierd on offy revving has ceased also, perhaps it had remnents of shite fuel in or something. its revving to 11.4k max now with a 15'' bar (without me adjusting.) so i guess its a bit on the rich side, perhaps a precaution of this overheating issue. i'll keep an eye on the plug and maybe lean it out a bit in time.

its a red lead to the spark by the way.

thanks

also the exhaust is popping a bit. what?

just got a used dcs5000, when not in the wood it seems to run rough almost like it misfires or is cutting out. does it have a limited coil? and if so is this it. it clears up and cuts fine in the cut, the spark plug looks new and has not yet really got much of a colour to it. my concern is the person i bought it from has twiddled with the H screw.

when you stick a tach on it it'll rev to about 8k before it goes all over the shop. do i need to tach it in the cut?

also it came wit a 18'' bar,i want to drop this to 15. is it necessary to retune when going down in bar size? i never have before and have not a problem, but it just occured to me that a significant reduction in bar size might require a a slight richening?

thanks in advance

if your really serious about milling and your buying it only as a milling saw save up for an 880 instead. kind of wish i had. but ended up with 2 660 on a double ended bar which is sweet.

i wouldnt mill much over 30'' with a 660 unless you hate yourself and saw.

ledgend

milling oak is hard on the saws. we use 2 x ms660's on a 48'' (ish) cannon double end, which is ok, but if one saw isn't running its murder.

personally i wouldnt be looking to do much over 30'' with a 440 if that.

its also worth mentioning with a double ended mill you also have the option of just popping a dead saw on one end which acts as an oiler if say your milling cedar and your by yourself/ or have all the time in the world.

also with mine i use 325 chain as reckon its narrower - this is what it came with when we got it second hand so haven't had the chance to try anything else yet. ( also came with 2 x 9t 325 sprockets for the 660s).