muttley9050

Nice, will make all the difference to your accuracy.
If you have a waney edge slab you want straight you can screw or hot glue to a piece of ply to use as a guide down the fence.

I might risk it at 6 months and pulling it tight with a pair of sash cramps then!

This is what the customer wants replicating, using the original fittings. It’s pretty rustic to say the least 

"More imprtanly they do the job they are designed to do"
Exactly they are designed to be built using joints that are suitable for green oak construction.
A screwed Ledged and braced gate isn't this.
Yes you can do it. Yes it will be OK.
But will it still fit well and look better in 5 years time like a well weathered gate would. I doubt it.
Id rather follow well known standards in timber construction for my employ.
If I build a gate like the op wants it would be made from softwood or seasoned oak at around 20% moisture ideally.
You just have to make a gate of different construction for a quality green oak gate

Three horizontals with the vertical nailed onto them. No joints, just two diagonal braces.

You will probably find fixings will need tightening up in 6 months so I wouldn't dowel them.

Green or seasoned completely depends on the design of the gate.
With the right joints it can be built green but you will have to allow for the shrinkage in the posts.
A picture of style of gate would be useful.

Lucky to get hold of some more really nice Oak lately, cracking little telehandler hired in for the weekend. 

Our church tower was rebuilt by the Victorians without taking the spire down, they propped everything on oak beams. Seems like you must be able to prop this with enough 4x2 like you say, maybe a box or two of 100mm screws.

 As I understand it the boards will not shrink by any significant amount longitudinally. Yes, there will be gaps created when the boards dry and shrink across the width of the boards. With Ash being naturally dryer than say Oak would there be as much as 10% shrinkage? Pre-drilling the boards before screwing them down might alleviate and cracking.
 
This is what I’ve done with the Spruce floor in my workshop and a large decking area I’ve laid in Larch. Neither have cracked, the gaps don’t bother me as getting the shop built was more important to me than gaps in the flooring.
 
We also clad my brothers workshop/office and the front of my workshop in green larch board and baton with the boards nailed down with no pre-drilling and no issues either.
 
All I was really saying is if it’s a loft floor, in a garage and the owner would rather crack on now and not a years time I don’t see a significant risk in just banging them down.
 

Remove roof. Ratchet strap under last good board and around top board/plate. Prop up strapped wall with 4x2 temporarily. Dig out in sections underneath and build a wall to support it all. Point up areas where straps are after Everything else has gone off.

Depending on design this may be very possible without removing roof.

If he’s not planning on using the loft for anything other than storage perhaps they could just be banged in green? I’d also mill at an inch and a half
 

A customer wants me to mill this for floorboards for a loft in a timber garage. Is not planning on doing tongue and groove. 
 
What dimensions should I cut them to and how long will they need to air dry? 

It's all on Youtube. Start at the beginning if you can. It's much funnier if you listen to it in sequence.
 
 

Not heard of cabin pressure. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be available anymore.

Spoke about this kitchen repair job a while ago in another thread and some of you helped me identify the wood as American cherry.

I now need to try to match the finish so I can do some local repairs and make a few new pieces of timber to match.

I've tried all the finishes I have and none of them are close enough for me. I assume it has some sort of spray finish on it.

Any ideas on the best way to match this?If it was able to be touched up rather than the whole thing refinished then that would be better.

Thanks for the help with this.

Thanks for the feedback, cheapest automated machine I found is £912.00. If the venture flopped it'd be an expensive door stop! [emoji20]
 
I see the Portek Ultra Mk4 has the same features as the 620-230 Oregon, but it's 2/3 of the price, so might be worth a punt if this isn't going to be a big earner (judging by the poll so far). I appreciate all your honest feedback.

Nice work

What mill do you have please?

I'm not knocking you for getting as high a day rate as possible. But trying to justify it because it takes you ages to collect together all the bits and somehow fit them all on a little pickup truck is just silly IMHO, when it could all be on a trailer ready to go.

 

Justify it as a unique service, wide boards and planed/thickenesed- that's where the extra money is for sure. I'd pay the extra for thicknessing if I needed it.

And I'm not trying to justify it. Just explaining how I got there

You need to get a bit more efficient at the maintenance and unloading by the sound of it! An hour to unload and blow off, wtf! 🤣 Backpack blower on site, get home, unhitch or forklift off. Let alone and hour and a half to load up and check the oil on a 14hp single cylinder petrol, don't be silly. And perhaps try keeping a few ten litre jerry cans handy, filling up at a garage is a total waste of time in my book, I have 150l of petrol and 2000l of diesel most of the time.

 

I take your point about pricing and what you can earn bricklaying, but I can't see many takers at £600 a day although good luck if you get that rate, I'm not knocking you, anyone can be a busy fool and it's good you value your time. At £450 a day plus any blade damage this mill will easily pay it's way (it costs about the same as an auger plus breaker for a mini digger for crying out loud). It's a relatively unique service that can easily be sold as a bolt on to a tree job when the rest of the kit is already on site. No brainer.

 

For me, it's not about what I can earn bricklaying (which I hate anyway 🤣), in my business it's about how many times you can duplicate yourself by putting men in the cabs and behind the controls of your machines. I then just drift about and do what I fancy (usually welding and running the yard). Works for me. But if you are a one man band then I agree it's best for you to make every day as profitable as possible. For me, there's a sweet spot and I need to keep a volume of work/recommendations coming as well.

 

I'm also keen to see how much I can save by doing things like halving sleepers for thinner sleeper walls (might warp too much but worth a go), milling my own oak or chestnut posts (£110 net to buy here, I resell on the quote for £160, got to be some money there) and milling basic things like 4x4 posts (costing £16 to buy these days). My local sawmill are great but everything is a month's lead time.

Parts of the mill are stored in 3 different places on the property.

Lots of other equipment to load.

If I rush I can get the loading done in a hour but it is usually after a hard days work and I don't charge my time out at rushing around like a blue arse fly.

Most of the milling I do is cutting oak beams or huge slabs. Which are all manually moved, I don't charge lightly for this.

As I said I don't want to contract mill anyway. My mill is used for my own timber supply and timber sales. Most enquiries I get that I don't pass or refuse, my quotes are accepted, so I think you might be surprised how many people are willing to pay that much. There is also not many people offering the service of a mobile mill to cut plane and thickness 5ft slabs though.

You crack on with how you do it but my prices aren't changing. I like to work 3 or 4 days a week and that suits me.

For the record I hate bricklaying to and dont do much of it. But it was a good example of another job I can do with very few tools or outlay.

Last minute request from the boss for a necklace and bracelet stand. I thought I had a good eye but it proved impossible for me to freehand drill a 28mm hole perfectly true, or even close. These will have to do 
 

I plant to offer it with the MultiOne for £450 a day- both should fit on the wagon/trailer, and the loader won't be doing much work. Just replacing a man, which is what it's all about for me.

I paid £350 a day for man and woodmizer for a day on-site.

Woodmisers cant mill the trees I can.

600, I’ll do it for that and take away the saw dust!!
be cheaper for them to buy planks surely?