canoehead
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Everything posted by canoehead
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"Ours are normally 18" long & between 6" & 12" wide in 1" increments." out of interest, how thick do you cut them? are they tapered (if so from what to what?) and how do you estimate the amount of timber you need, by cubic meters per 1000 or tons? thanks
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as far as i can tell it was an oem. thou the ref. no's don't exactly match mr solutions fiche for the same parts. and it was a spur sprocket. (now that i know the difference, thanks Agg). it was like it torqued itself apart. i blame myself for running the saw past the point where i should've stopped to remove the chain for sharpening. only had the one chain with me that day, and just wanted that last cut of the day. wont do that again in a hurry. doh!!
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it is the sprocket/clutch drum they've parted company.
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thanks everyone for your replies. really appreciate it. i stopped using it yesterday when it cut out driving the chain. started it a couple of times. the engine ran fine, and drove the chain forward a bit, but without power. will be stripping it down this weekend for an examination, and report back. thanks again.
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milling for about four hours, then something gone, clutch? haven't stripped it apart yet, engine runs fine; chain rotates, only without power. any ideas?? oldish saw (5-6 years) have used very heavily this year, its cut and milled a house worth of timber. can't complain. just want to fix it asap as have more milling to attend to. here's a pic of my timber frame under construction.
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sweet. thanks for the replies. i looked at the parts pdf before posting, that's why i was wondering. as it only shows one slide (tiny mesh screen) which fits on the cover. so are you supposed to alternate it from the base to the top depending upon the season? which is which? i try and sharpen chains almost daily, they're not bogging down, and are pretty scary sharp, so will try changing the rakers. so how much is a bit in dropping the height of the rakers? is it incremental? a you'll have to experiment kind of thing? mostly milling green maritime pine atm, some seasoned walnut and chestnut. was running a 575xp couple of years ago, doing the same thing, and have to say the stihl doesn't clog anywhere near as much, so i ought to be happy, and stop whining.
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alright, so its not strictly the air filter, however, on the inside of the air filter cover are two openings for tiny mesh screens, one at the top, and another at the bottom. how much difference does it make if one of them is missing? are they both the same part no.? i only mention this as i'm milling at the moment, and am having to remove the air filter to clean it quite frequently. anyone?
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similarly, i'm fairly keen to saw all my own shingles, its affordable and do-able, but appropriate for me as a woodsman and carpenter, and in keeping with the design of the house. we are trying to be self sufficient here, and i see manufacturing the house, as much of it as i possibly can as part and parcel of that process. i'm going to need more than 3500 shingles and i can't imagine cleaving them all, there has to be a more efficient way, namely sawing. having read that post someone else posted about shingles in the US i know there's no need for them to be gnarly and cleft to be waterproof. i would rather spend a couple of hundred quid on sawing my own roofing cover than over a grand on slate. i'm not trying to be cheap, although every penny counts right now, but resourceful, which is essential if you're trying to be self sufficient. i've seen shingle roofs in the states and canada and always wanted to do one. now seems the right time. how are you getting on with yours?
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hi chris, wondered what conclusion you came to re sawing shingles? i'm trying to do essentially the same thing. build a timber frame post and beam house with my own timber. and as much of it in timber as i can/is appropriate. i bought a logosol M5 for that very reason. it has its up sides and downsides too. it needed a bigger saw than the one i started out with aswell. logosol recommend the stihl ms660 as a minimum. i had a husky 575xp, and it was okay on yellow pine, but not powerful enough on large lumps of hardwood, it ended up kerfing the cut too frequently. probably not helped by not having a support on the bar tip, a design flaw they now seem to be addressing. this isn't a problem with the stihl (i ended up buying one off ebay 2nd hand - one of the best things i've ever done, when the husky had 2 piston seizures one after the other) the stihl runs with the same bar as for cross cutting a 3/8ths pitch and the chain is a 75rd rip.
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milling roof shingles from pine using alaskan
canoehead replied to offgridchris's topic in Milling Forum
yeah fire is a consideration out here, there were a number of forest fires in the general region last year, but none in our immediate area, fortunately it's not quite that dry. however, we are right in the middle of a forest, and if there is a fire, well the whole house could go. it is a hazard of the area. it's freaky when your whole valley is smoke filled from forest fire. price you pay i guess. -
does anyone know if logosol make a shingle milling attachment for their M5 mobile mill? or has anyone homemade one? how well does it work? how many could you cut per hour, reasonably? anyone?
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tried removing the air-filter completely to do just that, but the connecting hose isn't long enough (it's a preformed dedicated size) to allow you to make the connection. and couldn't get into the carb to remove it from that end either. the stupid part of it is, you can't see what you are doing it all has to be by feel, or knowing when the two have mated (i wont make any analogies). if only they (in the husqvarna design dept) had allowed a bit more free-play for overhauling rather than only concerning themselves with maximum performance ergonomics. and just when you think you have got it seated it pops out. it is a flanged hose that has to sit into a double flanged housing (again the analogies i shan't be making). i don't want to say try picturing it. it is a bit like tyre fitting in reverse, and without tyre irons. nearly had a fawlty moment with it the other day. fortunately none of my neighbors speak english.
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milling roof shingles from pine using alaskan
canoehead replied to offgridchris's topic in Milling Forum
in a similar situation. am milling the timber for a post and beam timber frame house i'm building here on the side of a mountain in the middle of a forest, in the centre of portugal, and i would dearly like to use shingles or shakes for the roof. i have a logosl M5 and am trying to find out if they do an attachment for milling shingles (anyone?) bizzarely, even living in a forest doesn't give you many options of different species of wood to use. if i can get chestnut at an affordable price i will use it. even though i've felled a lot of maritime pine for the general construction, i would think twice about putting it on a roof, even tarred. i want to be able to make my own roofing components, and not just use slate like everyone else here, or teracotta tiles. and finally here's my question. how many trees and of what diameter do you think you will need? right now i'm only guessing i'll need a few to cut 3 and a half thousand shingles (maybe more). -
rebuilt the top end of my 575xp save for one problem. can't get the connecting hose between the carb and the air-filter to connect. i'm assuming there's a dedicated tool for this, i don't have it if there is, and was wondering if anyone had figured out a solution to getting the hose to connect into the air-filter. there isn't room to get my pork sausage size fingers in there to join the two parts, is there a tool like a pipe chain wrench? that's supposed to be used here, and if that's the case, how would i go about substituting one? some sort of handle with a hose clip or cable tie? obviously concerned i don't tare the hose. perplexed again (that's twice in a week with chainsaw problems, thankfully resolved the last issue). anyone?
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araldite. why didn't i think of that.? superb answer. now, that is exactly why i joined this forum. this is the environment if you don't fix it, it will stay that way. thanks for all the advice.
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hi, having a headache trying to resolve a fuel leak on my MS660. the fuel tank steps down in size at about the half way mark, and there is a seam on the inside, at which point the fuel appears to be escaping out from, (it bubbles on that seam when the saw is running). i am assuming that the fuel tank is one piece rotomolded, and not two sections joined together. now the outer part of that seam appears to flange out into the trigger housing/handle, and it looks like a rupture could possibly have been caused in the tank at that point by the torsion the handle is under when i stick my enormous chainsaw booted foot on the handle to start it. have inspected the fuel hoses and connecting block, and the tank breather, and all seem to be in working order. is there anywhere else between the fuel tank and the carb that fuel could leak out, and then run down the tank? no doubt i am missing something startlingly obvious. still with a lot of timber to mill, under the pressure of time, and a house to be built, and now somewhat perplexed. oh i might add i'm living half way up a mountain in the middle of a forrest in the center of portugal where i can't get someone else to look at my saw. any ideas? anyone. (obviously i should've thought of that before moving here), anyone?
