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offgridchris

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Everything posted by offgridchris

  1. i liked the norwood portamill PM14 mill which sits on a ladder. that was a good price from the U.S until they quoted me around $1000 for shipping.
  2. interesting mill, i'd be interested in what you think of the mill. im trying to find the cash for a logosol. i love the alaskan but it is tiring and better for larger stuff. are there any video clips of the mill?
  3. thanks for the replies. gutted. looks like its a felling bar then. big lesson learned today. rope the tree and remember to knock in a felling wedge.
  4. had a frustrating day trying to fell a large pine tree. the result is one hung up tree and a bent bar. should i try to straighten it or should i get it done by someone who has the right tool. i need it perfectly straight for milling. and the last time i tried on a smaller bar i ended up with an S bend.
  5. i had a bar adapted to fit my old homelite ( rob what was the company?). i suppose if i use the 660 bar and possibly have it adapted. or just us a .325 setup and loose a board here and there. i was thinking a 24" bar which should be plenty. ive just had a load of cypress delivered, with more on the way. i dont plan to sell the timber just use for our house. although i mentioned it to a friend who is a carpenter and was interested about using it for decking and cladding. i was worried about using the logosol on my own and having lift the larger logs. but all solved by siting the mill on the bottom of a slope and loading then onto a wooden rack. the logosol dvd was very helpful. im going to set all the logs up then they will be ready for cutting in the autumn. expensive mill for just a frame, but looks well made.
  6. Rob, thanks for the reply. unfortunately at the moment it looks like the narrow bar doesn't include the 880. the saw is just a bit too big. hind sight is a wonderful thing.
  7. recently ive been looking for a way of speeding up milling smaller logs. ive been using a 48" alaskan, small log mill and mini mill with great success on larger timber or timber where its easier so bring a very small mill to the tree. now i want to cut a lot of thin boards using timber i can move to a mill. i was looking at the Logosol M7. has any body used one? the kerf is also something i want to change. can i get a 1.3mm bar for my ms880 ( logosol make one for the 660)?? i know most people will say its to small for the saw, but my thinking is if used only on small logs just to cut thin boards. i cant seem to find a comparison of kerf sizes for the different chains. thanks chris
  8. the spread sheet looks great thanks. ive only been milling timber in our woodland. this may turn into a business and im interested in the prices of timber. can anybody give me an idea of the cost ( i take it its all in cubic feet?) of different timber. ive been milling douglas fir, red oak, ash, stika, corsican pine. and it looks as if i'll have to buy some sweet chestnut in the round(for shakes. see other thread). im gonna start phoning saw mills next week to get a better idea, but i like the advice from this forum. nice and impartial.
  9. cracker it looks like sweet chestnut it is. any idea on what i should pay for lengths/ rounds. ive only ever milled my own timber. or anybody in mid wales with access to some chestnut. i already have the froe.
  10. following my other post about making shingles. has anybody seen or used the portable ripsaw below Ripsaw portable sawmills - welcome a bit pricey but its the cheapest way i could cut thin boards or shingles in long lengths. i was thinking of creating the taper by dressing the shingle with a draw knife? any other ideas as i said before if the roof is going to cost me over £3000 if i buy ready cut WRC shingles or more for cleft hardwood.
  11. thanks for all the replies. im hoping my neighbour will let me use his bandsaw (also depends if its big enough). the Leylandii im hoping is big enough to get into decent shingles. if is splits into bastard shakes then great. although i don't think it will. considering the cost of WRC shingles i could afford a band saw attachment for a chainsaw, which ive seen on the net. anybody seen one in action. i cant believe saw WRC shingles are over £1:00 each. if ben law can split 1000 chestnut ones in a week. then that's a nice earner and i may have to give up the day job. the plan is to clear fell our sitka spruce and replant with sweet chestnut and other hard woods. although a nursery crop of Leylandii looks surprisingly like quality stuff.
  12. i would love to use all these durable timbers, but i want to use what ive got. the Leylandii looks the best but would have to be sawn because of the knots. has anybody used it as a timber? also any ideas on sawing with a chainsaw mill. cleaving with a froe would be my preferred method but again it has to be the right timber.
  13. if i use WRC any idea how much it costs for the wood in 1' rounds? i live in mid wales.
  14. thanks for the replies. i was thinking of scots pine or corsican. ive just found out Leylandii is very durable. we have a number of these in the forest opposite us. they are only around 8" in diameter. the new extension roof is 16m2 and the main roof is 60m2.
  15. ive been busy milling the timber for our green timber extension, using an alaskan. ive nearly finished and im now thinking about the roof. i want wood shingles/shakes. the problems is i dont want to buy them. has anybody sawn their own using an alaskan. i know half will be lost in cutting. producing the taper? can you fit a small narrow ripping chain on my ms880? also as the title mentions i want to use pine as that's what ive got plenty of. so to preserve them i was thinking to charring them or linseed oil? the roof pitch is 50 degrees which helps and i plan to leave a large space under the shingles for good air flow. the problem is we live in wales, so plenty of rain. thanks in advance.
  16. Cracker, how the the stove performing? i've been looking at the boiler range made by grey metal stoves. im worried they are poor quality. it would be great to hear from you or anybody else who has one.

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