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Posts posted by arbmark
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Hey mark, dont quote me on this in future, but I was told by 'worm products' people, that the worms are already in the wood - or the laid eggs are - and when the temp/cycle is right, the new worms hatch out.
as far as new attacks, I guess a treatment of barrantines or a pyrethrin based product before your finish might be good - i do that. I cant see wax or lacquer making much odds to a beastie that wants to get in for a munch...
240 is plenty i think. i know it's macracarpa but you never know when you'll get some grain lifting soon as you put the first bit of something on it - and a finish is generally obtained from rubbing out anyway...
oops i quoted you!
thanks for the advice i got a bottle somewhere. i think 240 is fine - i have higher but every blemish tends to howl out and dings show up more plus my fingers hate sanding more than sawing! Was going to do the seat today but got too busy in the end
Cheers:thumbup:
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Speaking for myself, I'm in it for the glamour and the groupies
is this the all the friends youve made on mumsnet?
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Hi All,
Just finishing up last stages of a macrocarpa "throne" i have carved. Pics coming soon. Whats the best finish for the above - i prefer oil/wax but if it has to be varnish, it has to be. Currently sanded to 240g - should i take it to 400g?
Two small bore holes already in one corner.
Thoughts please maestros
Cheers:thumbup1:
Mark
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sort of on the point - i heard you could coppice hedges of overgrown trees, which meant you could then remove them a couple of years later once they had grown back into hedges. whaddya all think about that one! havent tried it!!! and probably wont either...
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he sure is
never reduced a deodar but i have kept 'pruned' a medium sized atlantica and it looks pretty good but then it is more 'interesting' species in terms of colour and form.
That looks great Tony
i would still give the crown lift/ open scaffold a good go -and whats the view of - a road?! surely a view through an open canopy of sexy branches would look much better. sometimes its just the instant fix that the customer wants that the problem
removal would be such a waste - get it TPO'd now!
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This tree cedrus deodar can be reduced and still look good.
simples.
if you wanna see a perfect one look down clarendon rd watford!
agree tony but could you make it look as lovely??!!!!
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naah......gradual crown lift, thin, retain leader and aim for the flat topped specimen it would happily reach anyway - could be several years repeat work on that one!
its not a pine. what is it? cedrus? actually it could be cypressy.......hmmm i wonder who'll be along to set me straight.....
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whats the question - does it burn?! i would expect it to burn lovely, with the old reservations about resin in chimneys.........
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chains a little dry guys but this saw has always had oiler issues and and to go back early on (Stanton Hope were excellent). But never been happy with it but you have to muddle on.
Will go back and see if its totally dry.....Yep it is now - it had flung a little bit before. I thought that if the oil wasnt getting through the chain tightened slowly but i may be wrong
cheers guys will check the pump tomorrow in the daylight
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whats going on?!?!?!
picked up the saw (after giving it a cleanup the other day) and after a couple of cuts the chain went all tight. i slackened it off a bit, it tightened itself up again. Played with it for half an hour and cant get the chain anywhere near the right tension - when i set right it then tightens itself.
gremlins? some sort of fail-safe?
half expected jeremy beadle to pop out out of the bushes.
any thoughts guys? ta very much.
Mark
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doesnt always work man but worth a go. youre gonna get epi'z all over the place i expect anyway - just keep the ones you want and snip out the ones that are going blatantly wrong (or cut back as spurs) - theres a balance though with letting the tree get its xylem function going well again, so tell you mate to be patient and it'll need several visits and cupcakes/babyshamz to boot
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did you remove the prunus then? what about making some bark nicks to encourage a bit of epicormic action from where you want it.....if its now got light it could help to even up the crown?
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Yea -"alder scarce at all" what a load of rubbish!
Felix whenever i see your name youre always being a naughty boy. Moderators! Moderators!
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Nice work worcs! This was made to be shared - i'm off to facebook
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liking this thread very much, and i'm off to the course on WIG on exmoor. Nice one Charlieh. Cheers mr
Mark
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i have a mate (former arb) who does this for a living freelance and is a bit of a pro when it comes to hoisting fat camermen into the canopy - pm me if you want his details - he's in bristol. Suppost this is your job though! He's a helpful kinda chap but its his livelihood if you know what i'm saying!!!!
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You might already be aware but you may not need planning permission for the shed.
Do you have more than five hectares of agricultural land? Or are you doing any forestry on the land?
If so you have permitted development rights, parts 6 and 7 here:
The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) Order 1995
Basically you have the right to build a shed for agricultural or forestry use if you meet the criteria. The council cannot say no but they can argue you do not meet the criteria.
Hope this helps.
he's processing which is a different use class from forestry, believe it or not, hence the need to apply for business use....now windfall has admitted retailing logs they will want him to apply for it i expect...its good to keep things legit and the planners are usually helpful when you go to them, at least on the face of it.
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if you want a towable and the timberwolf is too much try a bearcat....parts are a bit tricky but simple and well built. a new one is under 5k i believe from abbey pro
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ive got the old husky top handle and its fine. probably going for chips now!
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the very basic bits are....
its simply a cut, a split and another cut. anything less than that is a lazy hack, and isnt good for the health of the shrubs
you need to cut about 2/3 of the way through down at around 30-40 degrees from vertical(on the opposite side to direction laying!), as you bend the stem over make sure the split runs down the stem, if it goes up you have messed it. cut the stub off with a cut that slopes up to the bottom of the split - there must be some images on google. A billhook is kinder to the cambium than a chainsaw but if its about speed then wazz through with the saw.
each stem will probably want any of the thicker side branches removed.
the actual putting together i can help you with as i do the far less poncey Devon style!
yes you can change the angle you cut at to point the stems in the direction you want them, probably in towards the centre. a felling lever is useful for opening up the split.
good luck:thumbup1:
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how long will what take chris? the purchase process will take at least a month. you probably wont be coppicing this year! whats in it at present? species, age, been coppiced before? 10k would be a bit of a guess, prob more if its got good access and 'appeal'. most coppice is done on rotation ie not all at once.
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Nice and dual purpose...a scented reminder of summer days....! Cheers Matt. Miss the old conservation work and looked into contracting & prow but set up too much expense/hassle without guaranteed work. You seem to have a great set up, with variety.
Personal question but do people prefer rubber or nylon?
Any other cheap long probe ideas?
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Thanks chap. Those prices are something arent they! Probably good quality to be fair.
One google search led me to a list of conundrums solved by MacGyver!!!!
Could you divulge any names of aforementioned websites?!?!?
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bull rope advice
in Rigging and roping
Posted
Afternoon All,
just ordering some bits from Jonesie and i am looking at 16mm marlow bull rope - is it suitable for natural crotching, pulley rigging or fine for both? I'm after a rope that doesent mind a bit of rubbing on the odd branch
Cheers chaps/chapettes
Mark