wicklamulla

On 07/11/2019 at 10:31, EdwardC said:

 

Noice LC,  had one years ago and missed out on another recently on facebook marketplace.

4 hours ago, MattyF said:

I had two wheel clamps a head lock and anchored chain on the floor on the chipper ,two lockable bollards in front of that, my tractor with three point linkage winch lowered and and the battery taken out in front of that. One large armoured door in front of that. All the saws and rigging kit in double locked armoured boxes.. a second locked gate people sleeping within 20yards and cctv... the only thing missing was an alarm system ...They came in with catapults to take out the cameras then oxy torched the locks for every thing else ,came to 27k .. they also some how knew I had a number of saws not in that lock up so started marking my house , at this point after already loosing a grand total of over £30k of hand tools and four wood chippers probably coming in around to another 55k over the years I packed up and left as to be honest and I’m not trying to be hard I would of killed some one and I knew who had done it so did the police. It was not mentally healthy being in that area and despite spending most of my life there and having a lot of friends I will never go back, as I would actually do terrible things with out a second thought and these sub human bits of shit are not worth doing time for.
We need new laws in this country , I feel for any trades man who has built there livelihood up from nothing but hard graft the effects mentally of loosing your livelihood are well ...not positive but don’t let the bastards get you down get an alarm or change yards or even have a separate place for saws at home and don’t tell any one where it is.. it mad spending an extra half hour a day protecting gear but that’s what it’s come too.

read the above 3 times and i am shocked.  My wife read it and she is shocked! It sounds unreal.

8 minutes ago, Jamie Jones said:

Thanks for the feed back... I have a CS2511..... 

Is the gap between the two not big enough to justify.. Just felt that a 35cc with a 12" or 14" Bar would be much better than the 25cc with a 10" bar..

 

I find i can use the 2511 and swap straight over  to a 50 or 60cc ground saw without the need for a bigger top handled saw in between. If yer still keen I'd shop around and pick up a new 360TES at a knock down bargain price. 

On 03/11/2019 at 09:10, jmac said:

Vermeer ax 19 ????

yer an August Hunicke fan too i see!

1 hour ago, devon TWiG said:

really ?  .... what catapault do you have and what length pole ...??  I gather it is possible but I cant do it !!!

Here ya go. 

1 hour ago, Kenneth said:

I would like to ask for some views, comments on the Tanaka 7201, 72.2cc chainsaw. I bought one last week brand new with a 24" Tanaka guide bar but asked the dealer to rather fit me a 20" Oregon guide bar seeing that the 24" bar made the machine "tip" forward due to it'weight. I have only started it 4-times (it is loud!) but have not used it to cut anything. What can I expect from this machine over the long run? 

what's the frequency.....?!

Is this yer first ever chainsaw?

On 20/10/2019 at 17:27, devon TWiG said:

Yes i have seen that device where you effectively use a pulley to gear down effort and then capture but i do not really think i will bother as 60 ft is probably enough .........would be interested to know how far others get on a straight pull ...

i reckon i can get well over 100 feet.

On 02/11/2019 at 14:16, markrufrider said:

i have some info from a valid source can't say any names and i no a lot about the new saw and its release date 

6.7 kg

4.1 kw

70cc

no auto carb 

magnesium pull start casing as well as chain casing and crank casing 

release is next year jan some time 

watch this space 

and it comes with a tsumuru bar 

 it's gonna be called the Echo CS 7310 SX apparently.  We shud get it here in June maybe.   

'the 362 has a new chrome plated cylinder which gives better acceleration and durability',  this i heard from an Echo rep.  Basically i would wait and see if they are any good afore spending money.  I have had a 360Tes for a few years,  good saw but not stunning. Jamie Jones do you have an Echo CS 2511 Tes yet as that would be money better spent in my experience.

i simply keep a tin of mackerel and some extra fruit in me lunch bag.

19 hours ago, Justme said:

 

 

£900 per head (Medical, theory, hazard, driving, CPC mod 2 & CPC mod 4) & every one can have C1 inc 5 years worth of CPC to get them started.

sounds reasonable.

17 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

Sure bud...

Or have a look at the: today's milling thread, today's job,advanced chain sharpening etc etc

Or my YouTube channel:
Roughhewnuk

Or my Instagram page
Roughhewnuk

I'm also sponsored by Logosol portable sawmills Panther sawmills

Or through the hundreds of posts I've done on Arbtalk.

I do a mix of subbing and my own work,
Mainly commercial stuff from car parks to construction sites and clearances. I also travel all over the uk subbing to various firms and individuals,
I've worked in small scale forestry,LA,
Emergency rail and utility work,
domestic arb etc
As well as the sawmilling and selling of beautiful oversized British hardwoods.

the reason i asked was to see if yer line of work was any different to mine for example,  i do Tree surgery and a small bit of forestry and woodland works but i'm not sure about the Hort. exemptions applying to 'the likes of us',  interesting thought though.

3 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

Ask the dvla,hmrc and vosa.
I did.
When I get a new engine for the transit, I'll be trying to get it hort registered.
Will update what happens.

do ya mind me asking what ya do for living?

On 20/09/2019 at 16:44, Mickins said:

DIY fix with issues

I had the stud come loose on my echo cs2511tes which was so disappointing because it is a great little saw in so many way. I took it back to where I purchased it from and they sent it back to the Australian distributor and after several weeks they gave me a new one to replace it, for which I was very grateful,   

I was then very careful about being sure not to over tension the nut on the bar stud; I prune palm trees and soon after I got the replacement I was pruning the fronds off an 8m tall cocos palm and as I was getting through a cut I used the saw to deflect a frond away from me and I felt the stud may have given way. Sure enough when I got down to refuel and adjust chain tension the stud was loose and I could no longer tension bar properly. Very disappointing because the pressure I used to deflect the frond was not excessive or unreasonable in any way. I was reluctant to take it back to the store again because I was now sure that a replacement would only have the same problem, Plus it would be quicker for me to fix than wait 2 or 3 weeks for a replacement. 

The stud is only threaded into plastic housing that goes into fuel tank with some plastic bracing. So I drilled into the socket that the stud came out of, all the way into the fuel tank then tapped an M8 x 1.5 thread all the way through into the tank. Then I got a hex head M8 x 1.5 bolt and threaded it into the threaded whole from the inside of the tank which some epoxy glue as sealant. I figured there is no way the hex head will pull through. There is also a locating pin/stud behind the  M8 chain bar stud/bolt which I removed and drilled through to the tank and tapped 1/4" thread through to the fuel tank into which I threaded a section of threaded bar from the outside and fitted a nut on the inside of the fuel tank because I could get a hex head bolt in from the inside of the tank because too far offset from opening. I then got a 1/4" hex nut and ground it round so if fitted comfortable in the slot of the chain bar and ran that down the stud. Then I drilled a hole in the chain cover for the extra/2nd stud to go through and made up and steel reinforcing plate that screws to the chain cover, so now I have two bar studs (photo below). I also made up and fitted a wooden spacer with a 1/4" whole in it that goes between the metal plate and the plastic cover, this prevents the steel plate bending when tightening the 1/4" nut. 

Works great and has been going really well for about 8 months but now I notice the studs are getting longer, they slowly pulling through the plastic and my fuel is starting to leak. When I look inside the fuel tank I see the plastic mound that held the original stud that I tapped the M8 x 1.5 thread has peeled away around the M8 hex bolt head. This bolt and the 1/4" stud are still very firm and still very effectively secure the chain bar tightly in position but I can see that I'm going to be making a few more mods in the near future to stop the M8 and 1/4" bolts from creeping through the plastic, and fix the fuel leak which will only get worse with time. I intend putting a steel plate with a 8mm and 1/4" hole inside the fuel tank to fix this.  

Echo / Ariens would have most likely fixed it for free as they did mine and some others.

I had an old Isuzu pickup for 11 years and originally paid 4k for it,  sold it for 1k.  It got exported.

10 hours ago, woodwizzard said:

I might just muddle on with my 560xp and ms650 and put the money towards another motorbike instead ?

slippery slope....

tink i'd prefer a basic lace setup as i reckon you can't go wrong with tried and tested 'technology'.  That system on the Boa boot looks loike a gimmick to me and i too would be concerned about damaging the adjusters.

Been putting this job off for a while now. Old tie plates had stretched due to wear on tipping components like the pivot points etc. Had a local chap fab these up for me,  cost me a huge £90!  Very happy as I assumed it would cost a lot more. I was gonna sell my fairly tidy MK6 Transit and buy a newer MK7 but opted to hang onto it as it's cheap to run and fix. Been slowly upgrading and improving things. 

i bought the Notch version with the optional trigger assembly,  it is good but can be hard to activate the trigger mechanism sometimes.  The APTA and suchlike are great  but you need to pump them back up after each shot and if you miss yer target 3 or 4 times thas a lot of pumping where a catapult type is quicker to reset and fire.

42 minutes ago, Woodworks said:

Am I right in thinking you run a Rodeo? 

Well Beau i was gonna buy a Rodeo but an older Isuzu TFS69 came along and stole me heart as it is in excellent condition and low mileage for a 2002 vehicle (came with 67k on it). This is my second one,  the first one did nearly 11 years with only a rear diff pinion bearing and a set of front discs needing replacement so i know they are basic and fairly well put together, the first one was stihl on it's original clutch when i sold it earlier this year with only about 135k on it.  It can only tow 2.7 ton versus most Rodeos be able to tow 3 ton but i only use it as a quote vehicle and for 4x4 access on some jobs so the tow limits are never going to be an issue unless i decide i need a high sided tipping trailer to compliment the equally old Ford Transhit then i'd struggle to stay legal on the weight front. The benefit of my antique 4x4 is it has 2 gear levers versus shift motors as on the Rodeo and relies on no electronics to shift from hi to lo,  it cannot SOTF though.  Initially i wanted a much newer pickup as the old one was looking worn and tired but in buying this 2002 model i have saved about 8k as a nice Rodeo is about 10k used.

On 04/10/2019 at 22:34, Ty Korrigan said:

3mm alloy.

 I could have ordered 4mm but it's a trailer not a Panzer...

 

Stu 3mm alloy with the added chequer ticks on it is more than enuf.

On 04/10/2019 at 21:49, monkeybusiness said:

It looks smarter than the chequerplate from the factory though IMO.

Dan, i'd want the chequer side on the inside as it'd be 'more robust' and would handle 'log stikes' better.  Smoov side outwards so ya could easily have it sign written.  I purchased some 3mm aluminium chequer plate off of Facefook meerketplace a couple of weeks ago and will be riveting them onto the frame work of my Transit tipper as it 'looks better' than painted plywood and should be maintenance free.

21 hours ago, Woodworks said:

I know quite a few Dmax owners have gone down this rout. Would have thought it might be quite a nice truck to use once done. For Matt maybe some freewheel hubs on the front and you could run in low range without torque wind up as well. 

Thas the setup i use and it saves the clutch, tyres and gearbox.  Luckily my ole gurl has no ECU's or a DPF and i blanked both EGR's.  So is it a case with these newer vehicles that they either have Adblue or a DPF but not both?  Think i'd prefer the Adblue with no DPF option if it was available.

those 0.43 chains are a pig to sharpen and the teeth snap off from time to time but they really are good for pruning / reduction works as the finish cuts are clean and tidy looking.  I reckon that 200T will eat those small chains though.

On 10/08/2019 at 11:55, Big J said:

Most of the roads on the continent you wouldn't even think about the width of your vehicle. We haven't upgraded our roads to keep up with the development of vehicles in the UK.

 

For instance, on a site we're working at the moment, the pinch point was the road on one side of the bridge adjacent to site. A 2.9m wide bridge with a right turn after it meant that the lorries were having to turn right whilst still on the bridge. It was tight even for 6 wheelers. So I put a ruddy great big layby in straight on from the bridge so that the lorries can now completely cross it before turning and now we can get wagon and drags in. The whole network just needs an upgrade.

 i wondered if it was you had done that when i did a 'site visit' yesterday.  I will hafta inform Devon Highways i'm afraid...