ctenicera

Yeah, that's the bit I had trouble with too - I'd better not tell my boss, as I write all the risk assessments at work (which is non-arb, but still involves machinery, manual handling etc)!! As I said, I think it's just the daft way they word stuff sometimes, as it's happened before.

Hi APC, I did paper 3 today (had done the other two previously). I didn't really understand the wording of the risk assessment question either (at least the second part of it) - at least it's not just me! I have to say though, that this isn't the first time I have had trouble with question wording - there was one like that in paper two last year when I did it, unfortunately, on that occasion I must have got the wrong end of the stick, as my mark wasn't that good - hopefully I've got it right this time. When I did paper 1 last June, I got the results in August and paper 2 last December, I got the results in April, but they were delayed. So maybe expect a 2-3 month wait. Also, I'm just looking at all my stuff from ABC and the pass mark is 50%, gradings as follows - Pass 50-59% Merit 60-74% Distinction 75%+ But you have to pass each exam individually as well to get the qualification if I'm reading it correctly. I hope this info is correct as the date on the document that I have from ABC is 2008 - so may have changed since then. Hope this helps and good luck!

Evening, I'm assuming that if you are on the old RFS Level 2 course then you still do need the practical quals in order to get the full certificate? If so, then I would be interested in a place on A01, but only if you don't need to get all the practical quals before the old RFS 'qualification end date' of 31st Dec 2012. I can't afford to put myself through everything I would need before the end of this year. I know you need to complete the thoery part before 31/12/12, but does anyone know if you need to complete the practical part before then too?

Hi all, I had a really good chat on the phone with Treelife on Thursday and firstly I would just like to thank Keely for taking the time to speak to me and for being extremely helpful. For anyone interested in the courses, the best advice was to definitely try and do the taught course rather than correspondence, which is fair enough, as I think the contact with the tutors would be invaluable when compared with the correspondence version. As for pricing, it is actually pretty much the same for the taught version and the correspondence version as the main part of the course is the assessment procedure - which is of course the same for however you undertake the course. My guess of around £3000 is correct for the Level 4. Overall, looking at the qualification content it seems like a really good course, with a good wide range of topics and can prepare candidates for work not just in practical arb, but also for assistant arb officer or consultancy jobs, so it seems like it could open up quite a few doors in terms of potential career paths. Hope this info is useful to anyone looking into the course. Hi Caliburn, brilliant post by the way. Go for it and I wish you the best of luck in your career . I'm a lass and totally understand how you feel.

Evening, Chaffey, I will certainly let you know what Treelife say - no answer as yet though. Caliburn, I believe the fees for the taught version of the Level 4 are in the region of £3000 (not sure whether there is VAT on top of that too?). It's a bit pricey for me I'm afraid, but I should expect the correspondence version to be cheaper as you aren't paying for the tutor time. The question is how much cheaper - I will let you know when I find out. One of my main considerations is that I'm not actually an arborist, I'm studying arb firstly out of interest and secondly as I hope I may be able to make a second career out of it if I ever find myself out of a job in my current profession - I wonder if it's worth shelling out such a large amount of money for something I may never use or may not be of any benefit to me?

Hiya chaps, Thanks for your replies - I did suspect that may be the general concensus. I guess the fact that no one is doing it says it all! I have done the Level 2 by correspondence too and found it OK, but I think the Level 4 is a big step up from the Level 2. Will be interested to see what Treelife say.... Cheers

Hi, Is anyone currently doing the Level 4 course offered by Treelife by correspondence? It's something I'm considering for after I finish the RFS Level 2 in June this year, but am reluctant as apparently it's really hard to do it without proper tutoring (I don't think I can afford the taught version and I'm a little too far away from any of the venues)? I have contacted Treelife this weekend for some info, but I wanted to also get some opinions from course participants if possible? Cheers

It was a female tree surgeon that got me interested in arboriculture. I'm now studying arb in the hope that I may be able to make a second career choice out of it if I'm ever out of work in my current profession.

Hey sorry fella, seem to have annoyed you here! It's only for domestic use in the garden and doesn't really matter if it breaks down after a year or so, I'll just buy a new one. Was just after some general opinions. Thanks all for your comments - general concensus seems to be 'avoid', so I will.

Heard of the make, but know nothing about them. Are they any good? Cheers in advance

Just downloaded the Treeid and Wintertreeid by Isoperla and I like them, easy to use, good photos, fairly comprehensive for native and well naturalised species, but doesn't include any exotics. Not much use if you are really up on your tree id, but good for learners like me. A fungi one would be good tho - will have a look.

I used HPI's own website about 6 months ago and didn't need a chassis number, just the reg. It costs a bit, but well worth it if they flag something up.

I did the first one in June this year, got the second one in December and then the third next June - leaving me with the December 2012 exam slot to re-take any should I need to!

Hi, I'm doing up an old Husky 65 and I broke the sealant that was around the hole coming out of the fuel tank when I pushed the fuel hose back through it - consequently there is now a small fuel leak through this. Anyone know what I could use to repair this? Thanks

Thanks for quick reply