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ledders666

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Posts posted by ledders666

  1. I've been using an Akimbo for a while with a drenaline...

    Mixed reviews from me I think.
    I like it but it has some significant flaws.

    -the comfort in the hand is not great, not a major problem but can be uncomfortable if you need to pull it hard

    -the major thing I dislike about it is it's not consistent at all on wet/dry/damp ropes. It can go from working well to shit very quickly. And need adjusting. Which leads to another problem..

    -i need to run mine on the minimal friction setting on both adjustments when the ropes is dry. So when the ropes wet and It locks on I have no means of reducing friction further. Mainly resulting in it being pretty useless in the rain and I go back to the rope wrench.

    So would I recommend it? Probably not.
    I'm looking towards that new rope runner next which I've heard does not suffer with the wet rope syndrome

    It has converted me to mechanical mid line detachable devises though. Nice and compact and less faff to put on and off to a wrench. Maybe the akimbo mk2 may be better if that's ever a thing


    Has anyone found similar?

    • Sad 1
  2. On 05/07/2020 at 20:27, markrufrider said:

    did i ever say i was an echo convert hahaha o i am missing one saw from my collection 2511tes isn't hear but iv been testing reviewing the new battery dcs2500t for a few weeks now i test review echo saws a full review will be up on the echo blog page soon any questions feel free to ask lads try and answer them as much as i can on the saw 

    107381914_10158411715120040_8283651417830724248_o.jpg

    How do you find the balance of the DCS-2500T?

    I'm dubious that with the battery at the rear and with the smaller option of bar on would it feel unbalanced?

     

    Thanks

  3. Hi,

     

    I'm wanting to add bat surveying as a service I can offer.

     

    Does anyone have experience in this?

     

    Are there recognised organisations that provide training?

     

    Any help at all really would be great to point me in the right direction.

     

    Thanks

     

  4. Reading other comments as well, I'm not a great fan of the 'What if' scenario of getting out the tree with a cut arm, for example, if you have 2 ropes. Don't cut and hold with a chainsaw, simple solution... Silkys can still catch you out of course but generally much less severe..

     

    the other I don't quite agree with that I've seen on this thread is having a second substandard anchor, for example if you main anchor failed and you would have to descend on the substandard one. It seems in the 'what if' scenario youd be in a worse place had you have not had the second anchor, substandard or not?! maybe I misunderstood what people were saying on that one, but kinda the point of having a second TIP.

     

  5. Had a first go with two ropes today, so limited tries so far I know. but overall I'd say it was pretty positive.

    It was slower yes, but i'm not practiced with it so this will speed up, and it wasn't that slow anyway.

    I used the following method, which I'm going to try and refine some more to see how it goes. as an idea the tree was perhaps 18m high and a Sycamore, so usually a fair amount of solid points to use as anchors.

    1 Main line, SRT set up as usual.

    2nd shorter line, DRT (could also be SRT to get extra length out of it, but more moving to retrieve it each time) today was a 5m line, I have a 15m one also If needed. (Also one of the points in the original post was about space on the ground and extra ropes etc, This second line doesn't need to reach the ground mitigating that problem)

    3rd short line 2.5m I think.

     

    This works as this article, in the FAQ bit, states only 1 has to be long enough to reach the ground uninterrupted...hope its not that one that gets cut!

     

    I  used the 2nd shorter line as my 2nd Anchor always around something that could take my weight fully on its own, in case the main line/anchor failed.

    and used the 3rd short line to strop in, also always on something that could take my weight, whilst moving the 2nd anchor point around the tree.

    Then whilst cutting I had 2 points of attachment, on independent anchors, 1 long enough to get to the ground and a 3rd and to hold me in place as usual.

     

    So rather than look for 2 anchors to set up and leave for the duration of the job, I moved the second anchor around with me. I think it worked pretty well. Takes a bit more forward thinking to plan a second line as well as the main line. But on this tree is was more than possible to implement it.

    As said only tried it on one tree so far and I'm sure there will be times it will be annoying.

    But today was fully compliant and easy to implement and work with.

  6. My first job working in the council we were taking a Large Beech down with a crane. one resident went off on about how we shouldn't be killing trees and taking this one down was a great act of vandalsim. My boss at the time calmed them by reassuring them we were only taking it down temporarily so we could inspect inside the trunk for decay and it would be put back up tomorrow, hence the use of the crane to carefully dismantle and rebuild it... amazingly they bought it and walked of quite happy

    • Like 6
    • Haha 9
  7. Hello,

     

    I have just moved up to Cumbria from Wiltshire where I used to do a couple of hedges each year for the past few years. Both Midlands and southern styles.

     

    So if anyone is looking for a hedgelayer in Cumbria either needing an extra hand or for someone to take on the whole job, please let me know.

     

    Thanks

  8. Thanks for the response. What is a good rate to pay a second climber?
    More than a groundsman. Less than your lead climber.
    Although good groundsman are worth just as much as a lead climber and just as essential so just need to judge there worth yourself.

    As to what skills I would say all the skills as your lead climber. But not in their prime so either still leanring so more time may be allowed for them to do work or some supervision. Or someone who was a lead climber who wants to take a step back. Probably the better as they have done it all and can foresee what needs doing and the likely way it will be done.

    All subjective mind
    • Like 1
  9. I am in the process of starting up a rail team, based in Bath. We will be working generally in the Bristol area but when required may need to travel further away. The work should be starting at the start of November.

     

    I am looking to set up a 3 man team made up of 2 climbers and a groundsman.

    Will will require CS30,31,38,39 as a minimum, if you have more CS such as 32,40 and 41 units this is preferable. Ideally you will have a Personal Track Safety certificate but this can also be arranged for you if you don't yet hold one.

     

    I will be looking to take people on a self employed basis to start.

     

    If you are interested please PM me your details and any questions, and I will contact you to discuss further.

     

    Thank you

    Josh

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