Bunzena

We had this problem and initially resorted to using an O2 Boostbox that routes mobile calls via a broadband link. Like many others have said here - it works well if you have a fast broadband link - but otherwise it was very patchy. Typically cutting out after a call lasted more than a couple of minutes. More of a toy than a solution. In the end we forked-out for a mobile phone signal booster/repeater made by Cel-fi. It's the only legal option in the UK. The ones on eBay aren't - and the fines are astronomical if you do get caught. It was pretty expensive but works really well. We went from one flaky bar in the house to 5 bars. Call quality is crystal clear, we now get 3G data [great when the internet goes down] and there's no need to register each individual phone that uses the system [unlike the O2 Boostbox]. There are two units [a Base Station and a Transmitter] - BUT you do need at least one bar somewhere in the property - so if you have that - this might be an option. [The Base Station does have an aerial 'port' - so if you barely get one bar you could put a High Gain Antennae in the loft or on the roof]. Setting the thing up is very, very simple - it essentially does itself! The two units talk to each other - and there are even graphics on a little screen to help. No technical knowledge required - and once installed you just use your phone like normal. The only downside is the price - and that each unit only boosts/repeats for one Network only. So if you are on O2 and the wife is on Vodafone - you'll need two sets. Budget £1400+ for that. I saw in the press the other day that Ofcom may be about to deregulate the booster/repeater market -perhaps as early as Q1 next year. That will bring more choice and lower prices - but don't hold your breath. Hope this helps.

Thanks to all who contributed. Lots of very helpful advice - only goes to prove what a great forum this is. Stihl is working again after a carb rebuild and new fuel pipe - but it's days are definitely numbered. So after much thought, have bought an Echo 390. It was the light weight and easy availability of spares/service from the dealer that eventually just swung it. Very happy with it. I also treated myself to some Aspen. First impressions are how different it is from 'ordinary' petrol/two stroke. Much less smell and using the saw is far 'cleaner'. [Almost as if I've switched from 4-stroke from 2-stroke]. Not sure I'm fully committed to it yet [it is expensive] - but first impressions are it's good and might work for a few selected tools.

I'd echo Paul J. I'm lucky enough to have and use a Gransfors Bruks splitting maul. Whenever I use it - it brings back the joy of using a really, really good hand tool. Lovely weight to it and the finish and sharpness of the head beggars belief. It is expensive but it's lovely to look at and gorgeous to use. One well aimed hit and the rounds just cleave in two. Having used a selection of axes and mauls over the years - my preference is for a maul. More versatile across a wider variety of different timber types. More likely to cleave first time - and easier to remove when jammed than an axe. So overall I find it less effort. Just my opinion.

Good one Spud! You're right - and I have a Carb refurb kit for the Zama on order - plus fuel pipe. Top end is fine. So will have a go at that myself. If it all goes pear-shaped, it may be in the post to you by end of the week. But the saw has always been temperamental from new. Never a good starter [even with new plugs and new fuel]. And when I really need it - there's always something scratchy-wrong with it. I think it just doesn't like me.....so time to 'trade-out'.

Thanks Sawchip - wise words. Only wish I could make my mind up!

One question on Dolmar. Any issue over quick availability of spares? Not just for now - but longer term?

Thanks Neil-R Dolmar is certainly getting some good reviews. And Shavey must be blushing by now!

Thanks BishBashBosh - really, really helpful. Tons of useful info. Hmmm. Running dry. It seems to split opinion. I try and run almost all my kit [chainsaws, strimmers, blowers, auger, gennies] dry when I'm planning to store them for any length of time - and never had a problem. But there's always been a doubt in the back of my mind about drying-out carb diaphragms, etc. And you've made me think again. That it might be wise to invest in some Aspen and perhaps not run things dry in future.

RMac - great post - thank you. Lots to think about. Some seductive comments about 'build quality' on the older style Echos. I am a sucker for anything that has an over-engineered feel to it. [Albeit I'm working to a tight budget]. Thanks also for the recommendations on bars and endorsing comments about ForestAndArb. Although I have a slight leaning towards the Echo 390 - it is likely to be stored for a few months a year. I always run my saws dry - so having no primer bulb might be a pain. [Don't know if anyone has a view on that]. I guess I could start using Aspen? [Not convinced by it - but never having used it - that's probably an unfair comment!].

Thanks Sawchip. Looks like another very good suggestion! [Quite a list of 'possibles' now building up!] Time for another cup of tea....

Thanks TimberCutter. Stupidly - I'd not even thought of a 390. It looks like a really good saw. Having read some reviews - that's backed-up by owners too - so a really smart suggestion. ForestAndArb have a good online price - is experience of them generally good? And I see lots of suggestions for alternative chains/bars. Curious to know how many people stay with 'stock' items. Thanks again to all who've contributed.

Thanks Stubby. I did have in mind an Echo 450 - or possibly a Shindaiwa 452S. [Not sure how much difference there is between the two - and which one might be better. Both brands are owned by one company - I think?]. Already have some Shindaiwa kit [brushcutter, pole saw] and it's been fantastic over the years. Tough, reliable - really love it. Getting spares other than by mail order for Shindaiwa is tricky though. So Echo might be a better bet. The Husky 445 looks good too - but don't know if it's better than the Echo. Any thoughts? Thanks everyone for comments so far...

Thanks MonkeyMoreton - not considered an Echo. Any model you'd recommend? And Gooseflight - not sure about the fuel pipe - will check. Thanks for the advice. My MS230 was always a bit of a shocker to start right from the beginning [i had it new]. Feels like a 'Friday-night-Special'.... Any other thoughts from anyone on replacements?

I've had a Stihl MS230 knocking around for the last 6 years - and it's always been a pig. Doesn't like starting and now won't rev properly. Been back to the dealer and I've pulled it apart more than few times. Works for a while - and then starts playing up. Always drained of fuel - and serviced regularly. I've now lost confidence in it - and want to replace it with something equivalent. Being lazy - I'd like an 'easy adjust chain' too! Could anyone help with some suggestions? Ideally something you've had a better experience of than I have with the Stihl. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/images/smiliesmodern/001_smile.gif Many thanks.

Okay - problem now officially solved. Shillo - you were right. Fitted a new chain sprocket and the tight/loose spots are now gone. What was really deceiving is that visually the 'old' sprocket looked 'new'. Could not detect any run-out or damage. And the difference between the loose and tight chain was considerable. But something was clearly wrong - so in the bin it goes. Thanks to all who contributed suggestions. (great forum!). Will now go mad with the grease-gun - and probably adjust the oil pump to run a little more generously....

Thanks to all who've posted so far. Will check-out all the suggestions and report back. I marked one of the chain links on with Tippex (remember that!) and also marked the chain sprocket at the 12 O'clock position. I then rotated the chain and checked to see when it got 'tighter' and 'looser'. The chain 'tightens' and 'loosens' four or five times with one full rotation of the chain (can't remember exactly) - whereas the tighten and loosen 'cycle' repeats with just one rotation of the chain sprocket. That suggests to me that the sprocket or the gear shaft that it sits on may be the problem. Really interesting comments about the setting for the oil pump. It comes 'factory adjusted' (so the manual says) - and that is almost fully screwed down. It does put oil on the chain - but that's a very different proposition from the fully opened-up suggested already. The fact I've tried a new chain - and the bar is relatively 'new' probably rules any damage from lack of oil causing this problem - but it's something I need to think through going forward - so thanks for that. I have greased the gearbox - but I'm wondering if I've been generous enough. There really is no play I can detect in the shaft - despite very vigorous pulling and pushing. (So much to think through!). I'm going to buy a new sprocket - but visually I can't see anything wrong with the current one. I can't see that the adjuster screw is stripped - and the fact that the tight/loosen cycles follow a pattern suggests it may not be this - but I'm going to get the magnifying glass out! Really appreciate all the thoughts - please keep them coming!

Hi - need some advice please. I have a Shindaiwa Pole Saw - which I'm using more than I expected at the moment. It's in good condition - and I try and service it more than specified. Yesterday I encountered a problem. It jammed-up when limbing a tree. Turned-out that the chain had tightened-up so much when running it simply stopped moving. The funny thing is that if I loosen and adjust it - it's very loose on some parts of the rotation and tight as tight on other parts. Tight means really tight - and loose means almost loose enough to jump-our of the groove. So I removed the old chain and replaced it with a brand new one. Same issue. I removed the bar (which is also less than 2-3 hours old) and cleaned it out. The end sprocket rotates beautifully, there are no bends or apparent tight spots and the chain groove is clear and free of any burrs. The oil pump is working and everything seems well lubricated. I then looked at the chain sprocket. It's steel, hefty and looks in good nick. I do have a slight suspicion that it may the culprit - but can't detect any run-out by eye. There's nothing trapped in the teeth of the sprocket - and no discernible damage (it actually looks like 'new'). I took it off and re-seated it - and there was no improvement at all. That just leaves the shaft from the gearbox to the chain sprocket. Again, there's no play in the that - and I can't detect any run-out. Now thoroughly mystified. So my question is this. Anyone got any suggestions as to what it might be? I have seen that there have been some other posts about tight chains on Pole Saws - but that seems to be down to lubrication issues - and in my case it's tight spots and loose spots (if that makes sense!). Could it be that I'm overlooking something? Interestingly this is the only real trouble I've had with Shindaiwa. My perspective is that the stuff they make (made?) is really top-drawer.