Pete Bannister

Chris, Building Regs apply to everything There's no escape! I suggest the practical issue is this.. you dont want the roof slab to crack when you undermine it by removing existing support. If the existing slab is a pretty good concrete ( think you said its 6" thick) and if its reinforcement is beefy enough, in the right place in the slab, and in servicable condition, that slab may well span OK without the intermediate support. If your dad is a design engineer or if he's dealt with plenty of suspended slabs he'll be able to make an informed judgement about it simply be referring to span tables and having inspected the slab and perimeter support. The imposed loads from snow, wind and any access or storage loads must be considered as well as deadload. Any timber member (regardless of quality or species) would have to deflect before its providing support to the slab, you would do this by wedging between the timber beam and the slab. Shrinkage of timber could well be an issue and thats why timber is not the most sensible material to use, in this case. I spend much of my working life dealing with timber and specifying it as a building material.Timber is a fantastic building material; so is concrete, but the arrangement you are contemplating does not work to the best advantage of either. Thats not to say it wont or can't work! good luck.

Good movie. Thanks for posting. From your accent Id say more NW England than NW Pacific? Rupe Also, the tibloc is a bit fierce on the rope, very pointy little teeth in it. I would agree. I think Petzl developed the Triblock for 'rescue and emergency' rather than repetitive service. It has been reported to have stripped the sheath off the core. And you dont want to that too many times in a week!

Chris, photos and or drawing would help. The timber pieces in a flitch provide resistance to torsional forces that develop as the steel or iron plate deflects. A flitch beam is an overly complicated and expensive way of providing a lintel unless there's an important aesthetic involved. It is more often than not more important to protect structural steel from fire than it is to protect timber (which, when of sufficient section, self-protects for a time). Structural timbers need to be fit for purpose, mechanically and provide adequate durability. You cant use green timber to support brittle masonry structures without problems as movement occurs through drying. In general terms what you are proposing very probably involves 'The Building Regulations'. Its you statutory obligation to comply. This isnt necessarily a big deal..but you should be aware of a few issues. It may well be easier and cheaper in the final analysis to use a proprietary concrete or steel lintel.

Well thanks for posting this WF Wales..I read the sales blurb paying attention to the supportive test data. Can't say that Id agree that an alleged smoke reduction of under 6% ( their figure from the chart Ringelmann Chart BS 2742C) is a great deal to shout about. The chart giving 'burn time' comparative information might be useful if it included many tests replicates ..but as it stands its not remotely scientific. The language generally used (e.g. 'vacuum') in places is just plain misguided. First impression...all smoke and mirrors!...

take time to consider all the possibillities ..then just do it like I do! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhVZ4hdz8sw&feature=related]Chainsaw Fail During News Coverage - YouTube[/ame] te he good luck

Tony & Guy, this is a side issue but... lime wash (calcium hydroxide) when fresh is extremely alkali and is v different chemically to the calcium carbonate in soils. Absorption of CO2 by the hydroxide results over time in reversion to carbonate. However, could the tree assimilate either into woody tissue? Tony, is this a common technique? and is perhaps a hydrated lime used rather than true lime wash? Regards Pete

Martin, apart from the smoke possibility, which is well covered above, it could be an allergic reaction to the Ash as has been mentioned or a reaction to fungal spores. If the Ash has been stored in poorly vented environment, mould colonisation of the surface of the wood (and often plastic sacks) can occur..some folks can be allergic. Are others in the same household showing the same symptoms? If not, then its probably allergy.

Bit late to contribute: but for what its worth; I come across Antrodia ( usually A. serialis ) in processed structural timber. Your photos look like a dead ringer Tony. One thing I would add is that its associated with warm, very humid environments

Lois, we all hold a duty of care to others. That is a long established principal in common law (English law that is) since Donohue and Stevenson 1932 The difference between the duty of care that is expected from a layperson and from a commercial specialist or a professional (e.g. a tree inspector') is simply that the latter would be expected to utilise specialist knowledge, experience and or training in the execution of an instruction. Codes of practice, Standards and the like are the measures most folk use to convince themselves and others that a duty of care has been performed. If you are answering an assignment question then it’s important to note that duty of care is not be confused with contractual obligations Good luck

nice Gainsborough thanks for posting that..I might see if can visit that if its still at the Whitworth. 'Bet that guy on the top saw had a strong back' Yes David but I'll bet the fat bloke in the frock coat had the profit from it! Ahh those were the days.

Well this has probabbly missed the boat ( sorry about the pun:biggrin:). Creosote impregnated pine sleepers that just aren’t going to wake up. Bacteria degradation of the wood and maybe bacteria and or fungal degrade of the tar oils in freshwater aerobic/anaerobic environment... Quite impressive if you like that sort of thing. these timbers had recently been excavated from mud. The timber has the consistency and smell of over-ripe peaches

afraid uploading photos isn't happening. I'll try again later.

Its a tropic hardwood rod. Will outlast us all in just about any environment but its heavy heavy. If you need high strength properties and super durability then Greenheart is good. Alder would be high on my list for 'sustainability' reasons. As Agg says, rotting at the waterline is the big issue you're up against. As for treated softwood..well if you're like that sort of thing..but not if your into 'proper' wood. Ill upload some pics of very mushy but very heavily creosote impregnated softwood ( pine) railway sleepers that had bee sitting in surface mud with clean fresh water running through it. Aerobic/anaerobic fresh water environments are particularly difficult to preserve wood in. Bacteria had digested the wood and I’m not sure, but probably also the creosote (could have been a fungal interaction going on there)

There you have it Bluecedar, that's at least 99.9% certain!

Bluecedar, The second photo looks like it could well be Flammulina velutipes. Check out this thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/fungi-pictures/40036-nice-bouquet.html

I'll take a couple of cube off your hands

Sloth, in my experience (as a surveyor of buildings and structures not trees per se.) the insurer will be easily satisfied. What they would like is a 'yes' or 'no' answer to the question 'is the hedge likely to cause damage to the insured building/property'. If the hedge is the property/responsibility (part or wholly) of the insured, then advice on whether the hedge is likely to cause damage to other property may also be appropriate. Of course; that's what they would like: what they get might be a little more subtle! good luck

Ah yes! many thanks Gerrit.. my blinkered vision comes from many years looking at fungi in buildings, where temperature range in relatively small. E.g. S. Lacrymans is quite sensitive to temperature flux.

Gerrit, thank you very much for that. Sporophores appear to be doing quite nicely at prolonged period bewteen zero and minus ten (ish). Sloth: well done!

Valid points guys; thanks for the comments:thumbup1: I was looking at the photos, wondering why no bootlaces and, like you Sloth, I did think about the time of year and couldn’t ever remember seeing honey fungus in such fine fettle after heavy frosts. Rob, I also mused over sulphur tuft. But still I can’t put my finger on it..Expert opinion needed please: either that, or I'll have to have a proper look!

On a dead sycamore in mixed broadleaf woodland in Lancashire. FB clusters ran from the crown to the base. I was a bit rushed at the time so didn't poke around. Nevertheless, cant see why this isn’t Armillaria spp

Pedroski, right now I’m wearing Icebreaker merino ski socks, (and that's not a chat up line). The socks I wear today cost more than the boots I could afford 30 years ago! I think you are probably right though..feet, like hands toughen up.. well, either that or you just lose nerve sensation with age:confused1:

Tim you are right to take it seriously! You may need larger sized boots, because most of us buy footwear that's too restrictive/ small. Think about removing volume rather than adding to it. Putting more insulation around feet that are already constricted will do one thing; reduce blood circulation: that leads to chilblains (your symptoms?) in the mild cold/damp conditions we have in the UK and frostbite in colder climes. Woollen socks, the best you can afford, will pay you back too (not least because they don’t get smelly). Wearing two pairs of socks is usually a mistake IMO. One pair of really good socks is almost as important as your boot. good luck

yes indeedy ..Im leaving that... If possible. will have a closer look next time I'm on site cheers

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