Rowan the Bruce

That is a stunning bit of wood, bloody heavy though. I did a crane job the other day taking out a Cadagi - Corymbia torreliana and the crane driver was taking lumps that were roughly 2 tons, he wasn't too keen, I was really surprised at how heavy it was.

Thanks for that Peter, I reckon spraying with something that stinks of cleaning chemicals will perhaps do after getting the cotton buds out.

Steve I reckon I'd look a bit dodgy opening my suitcase and declaring a Husky and a Stihl to Brisbane customs officers. However when they open the container at the dock and see the word 'Chainsaws' inspection will definitely follow - now for every minute of that inspection we will be charged, if they decide the items need to be fumigated or heat treated we will be charged a lot!

So you see how important it is to get it right in the first place.

Anyone know if steam cleaning a saw would bugger it?

Thanks for that I have some surgical spirit in the cupboard I'll try that first.

Hi Guys I am moving to OZ soon, I want to ship out two big saws with the rest of our household stuff. The customs will require empty fuel/oil tanks and no trace of any sawdust, resin or fuel. Basically it needs to look brand new. I am in a Phytophthera ramorum and kernowviae area and also DED does not exist out there either.

So how to solve this problem - useful chemicals, steam clean (problems with electrical components?) err um?

Any advise would be totally awesome dudes!

Bloody criminal that is, blatant vandalism, how many years old was that! Did they find one without tree squatters in it or something! Have you seen How to Grow a Planet, now that's impressive

Shame it isn't waterproof, the original back pad is like a sponge, well soaked after today. Might check it out though.

Hi all just wondered if anyone has had this problem, the ignition on my timberwolf keeps on switching itself back to 0 from 1 and switching off.

I remember using an old entec years ago that did the same but didn't do the maintenance on that machine at the time.

If anyone has experienced this before some advice would be good as I am not sure if it is a simple spring needs to be replaced or the barrel itself ?

my garage did it so just a local parts place i think, they bled the fuel lines too

Checked the plug and its well blackened so looks rich to me, must've had one of the boys took the old orange screwdriver to it. got a new plug but need to tune it now.

It was the fuel filter, turned to mush in the severe frost, I hadnt changed it in 40000miles oops! 15 quid sorted.

Hi guys I have this problem with the ms 250, it struggles to start after it has been running and warmed up switch it off and then its either flooding or too lean. Not sure of the problem. Any advice please, today is the first day of not climbing for about a month so may be able to sort it.

Hi evenangel I have an LDV on a W plate and exactly the same thing happened to me on friday 3rd. It was apparently minus 8 and I had loaded up as usual ready to go and off down the road, lost power and didn't make it much past 30mph the slightest incline and down to 10 mph. It is in the garage at the moment so if you find the problem let me know mate.

Yeah , sadly sunday im my paperwork day . how was the South west woodland show ?

Yeah the show was really good, the missus was even interested in the wood fuel and crafty stuff. My boys had their photos taken whilst sitting in a £ 250 K forest harvester, and loved all the big machines. Worth a look next year as some bargains on sale too.

Yeah, I was thinking of getting one. Does seem like more to go wrong, would prefer the old orange screwdriver thing. Feels nice but only checked them out at the South west woodland show so haven't used one yet. You up early on a Sunday Dave?

Not to sure what you mean but a Tirfor should only ever be used to pull. It's not rated to lift!

:001_huh:My Tirfor has a 5 ton pull and 3 ton lift, of course they can lift. You can even use blocks with them.

I have recently bought an 026 which has been used only a dozen times and has been in a colleagues shed for 4 years with fuel in it.

We dumped the old fuel and put in fresh, then pulled it over a few times and away she goes. The old chain has been burned up so we put a fresh one on the 18'' bar, it seems to be a bit gutless though (I used an 026 for a few years with a 16'' bar). I'm used to running a 372xp with 18'' bar or an ms 250 with 14''. The compression ain't all that good but is that cos I'm used to pulling the ms250? (no decompression button). The tick over is'nt constant and fluctuates a little.

So I figure that after sitting around for so long I will probably need to change something. Diaphragm? Piston rings?

So expert opinions and advice welcome.

And yes, I think we agree, although the original poster may be beginning to wish he'd never asked! (hopefully he's got something useful to work with from the earlier posts)

Although it is a new subject for me to delve into, learning is the key to perfection. Some really useful tips and as the pine is to use as flooring for a kids playhouse I'm not too concerned with the asthetics of the wood this time. I am the type of person (bloody hippy) who uses chemicals, other than petrol/diesel in the kit, as little as possible so using a kiln and milling at favourable times is preferable. My lack of space is an issue and warm wet cornish summers too. Currently i have an entire trunk of Crytomeria stacked in my attic (hope the landlord doesn't read that!) seems like a good place to dry stuff, dark, air flow but warm. Thanks for the posts.

Anyone know if the above borate solution is normal borax powder with water and what the ratio it says 5% for woodworm etc so maybe thats about right?

Order Woodworm Treatment Products - Boron based Woodworm Treatments

Although that seems a bit pricey compared to:

intralabs | Borax

Thanks for that Alec, yeah it was in Cedrus deodara and Pinus sylvestris (very wet) and the stickers are very dry. Everything is a learning process.

Hi all,

I've been playing around with an alaskan 36 inch mill for the year and some of the wood has been getting blue mould. I dont have a kiln but have recently been put on to a chap who is running a home made one. Any tips on keeping this stuff away would be good as it isn't as nice to look at as a perfect grain.

Yes, I can recommend this course for anyone who is involved with the arb industry. I went to one in Cornwall last month and found it useful as a recap and to become up to date with the new standards. Dom is a good speaker too.

Thanks for a good day.

Regards - Tristan.

Hi all, wondered if anyone has used a TDS gold fish 9.5 with dyneema for lowering awkward stuff and large lumps? also if any one has used a bak rak towball mounting plate?Superwinch Parts, Electric Winches and Winch Bumpers, UK – Goodwinch.com

havent used a winch for years other than a trusty tirfor and cant afford a GRCS or hobbs right now.

hope you can help

I bought a 200t on ebay for 330 quid it looked like it had been used 3 or 4 times. I searched for about a month. 3 years later its still used almost every day, replaced a few bits and good servicing monthly - I am one of the lucky ones though. Never buy one that looks too dirty.

Good silky handsaw is useful too

Have you got too much time on your hands again man?

Did you assessor tell you that, if so, my money is on your assessor being Pip. Go on, was it, was it?

 

Good old NPTC planting, it owes its very existance to the RFS cert arb

Yep you're right, but it is true in Cornwall he is the assessor with the ability to assess more NPTC tickets than anyone else. I know what your thinking but I've known him for years and he helped me out on that one.

By the way it was with Kensey not Lyner as i am in mid Cornwall