frans

You are prob. correct. I dont know the exact numbers as that is Greg's business not mine. He sure doesn't make a killing I know that for sure. I did the tapping myself. And yes I broke on tap (which is still in the hole). I had to shift the holes over a bit. Tapping threads into steel plate with a tiny tap is not easy. You have to have alot of patience and cut a bit, back out, cut a bit more, and just take it easy. rush it, and it will brake.

It is easy to spot on the bridge. Look for the row of stitching which travels along the length of the bridge. If 1 row, don't use it.

hope I dont get in trouble for this but.... Here is a great advert. for the Hobbs http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=rigging&Number=109565&Searchpage=1&Main=109535&Words=&topic=&Search=true#Post109565

good roping is an art form

thanks for the 'heads up'. I will take it to heart. Frans

You guys are going off into intellectual land..... If you have a chunk, and you are roping it off of itself, you tighten the load line as much as you can. This facilitates tipping the chunk off of the stem and removes any slack from the load line. Then, when the chunk is falling, slack develops in the load line. Taking this slack out, as the chunk is falling, is called: Rapid slack removal. The trick is to take the slack up, as the chunk is falling, and then letting the load 'run' (guided decent) as it falls, to minimize the shock loading on the load line, and the anchor point. The ratcheting bollard on the grcs, as well as the fixed bollard, both work very well for this purpose. I would say however, that any of the fixed friction points, the porta-wrap, figure 8, Hobbs, Grcs, ALL REQUIRE some education and skill to operate. If you take a wrap around the tree trunk to lower loads, it is far easier In My Opinion. When you have a small diameter tube or capstan which is taking the loads, you must learn to deal with the smaller friction point. The lowering devices are much more precise, so have a steeper learning curve than taking a wrap around the trunk.

Nailer nailed it very good with his post. Monkeymadman, I have the DVD, but part of the video is posted somewhere(you can do an internet search), and I live in the U.S. so kind of hard to get it over to Brit Land....

tockmal, Have you tried the angle attachment for your chain saw on a pole? It really helps to make better cuts, and your bar doesn't get pinched so easily

I have not read too much about the TreeFlex lately. When I reviewed the saddle, I had it for a short time, during ideal working conditions. It was warm and dry, and the jobs I had were fairly easy. Also I didn't want to abuse the saddle I had because it was not mine. Now, in the wet stormy weather I have been doing my best to thrash the crap out of my treeflex. Not in an abusive way, just putting the saddle through it's paces. I chunked out a fairly large oak trunk with the 066 the other day, and the saddle stuck real good to my waist. I like how it doesn't slid down as easily as my B'fly. It must be a combination of the shape of the back pad, the lumbar pad, and the buckle system to hold it on. Also I noticed when I pull the saddle on with soaking wet pants, from the rain, not an 'accident' , the buckle method of cinching the saddle tight to my waist actually IS EASIER to do, than with the traditional one buckle method. It could just be me, but the treeflex seems to be easier to take on and off. I have noticed however that these same buckles actually can be loosened from being rubbed against. I was moving around a stem, and the stem rubbed the buckle, caused it to release a bit, and the waist suddenly loosened. But I dont think this is a bad feature, in fact I like the way the waist cinches to my waist better than the one buckle system. This saddle has been out for awhile, does any one have new feedback on it? Thanks

that picture is just wrong, MB. I'm gonna call in a exorcist to remove that from your computer and the entire world. AND from my own brain. check out the little guy in the middle

Johan (also my brother's name, good name!) Climbing on a spider jack or lockjack is a whole new world. Approach with caution and start low and slow. the positioner will not work with a cable core flip line.

Peace bro

You chopped up my quote and made it seem I said something I didn't say at all. Here is what I said: Check out the thread: Blockdriver. Getting back on the winch thread, I have yet to see a modern tree company which DOES NOT use some kind of winch, portawrap, or comealong to work trees. Of all the tools a tree service needs, I think these tools are an important part.

I was sent a blockdriver some time ago to try out and give my thoughts on it. Overall I have gotten a mixed reception on the device. I have brought it to several tree services and for the most part have been laughed at. For me personally: I have used it on some fairly big chunks 4.5-5 foot range maybe in the 500 lb. weight range. Historicly I would always either set a pull off line cut at an angle, or just give a mighty heave and push the chunk off. So I was a bit skeptical myself when I first saw the device. After using it for the first few removals, the device does exactly what the manufacturer said it would. Also I have not managed to break it under normal use. So it seems plenty strong to me. The manufacturer warned me about keeping the chain at just the correct tension, but the chain has not slipped on me at all. Next week I will send the device to a guy to check out, and I am hoping to have another review when he has worked it on a few jobs. I give the Blockdriver a thumbs up

Here is where your question was answered promptly and respectfully telhol. I have not used the Haultz lowering device. But after checking it out, http://www.haultz.com/features.html I decided that I didn't like it. Seems too bulky, sticks out from the trunk fairly far, looks top heavy with the strap on the bottom, rotates/flaps from side to side, and I am not sure if you can load it midline. But, Not having used it, I will reserve my opinion. It may be a great device, for example check out the Blockdriver. Lots of negative response, but overall a workable device which has its place in tree work. So who knows about or has personal experience with the Haultz? Anyone? It sure has been out there for awhile

Here is the straight scoop, telhol: After the purchase of the winch unit, welding, x-raying, powder coating, and purchase of the load strap hardware, Greg has a resulting profit of under 300 dollars. Less when he sells in bulk to major suppliers. The idea of making money from the invention is to sell lots of them. This is a common profit margin as anyone who has done due diligence would know. I ask you, why have you not taken even the slightest effort to research the cost of the Harken winch, which is available on line? You would know the starting costs of making a device. Then start talking to folks who make stuff and sell the product. Research on the internet is so easy that to not do it tells me that you are incapable or unwilling to apply yourself. Anyone can type their opinion on the internet. Maybe enroll in a college study program to better yourself and improve your ability to think? Just a suggestion. Oh, and learn to spell. Your sentence structure and spelling is that of a child, not an adult.

Why even bother with tree work? Why not golf instead? Here is a driver for only... Price: £1600.00!

A pig tail is not a 'requirement'. As KimTree & Myself have demonstrated in our posts. Kimtree has a hook, and I have a pig tail. Both work for the job. I think it is important for folk to realize that what has been pictured here are two different devices that ARE CUSTOM MADE.

I think one of the reasons why people are so ready to accept sub standard work on their trees is because they dont place a real monetary value on the trees. The more people come to realize that their property values DECREASE when the tree is cut any old way, the more they will be willing to pay for proper work. My impression is that Europe has more laws governing tree work than America. But, like America, both countries have folks who just dont care. Its a challenging and thankless battle arborists have in educating the public. A great example of priorities is a person with a real fancy car, who takes it to a shop which does bad work, but gives them a low price. If they can do that with their expensive car, what hope do we have with trying to get them to do good work on their trees?

An important detail which I think is important is Greg Good's Pig Tail. This allows quick on and off, and doesn't jump off the hook. Very difficult to bend the rod into the proper spiral, so I called Greg and had him send me one. Have you had the rope pop off yours kimtree? Also with the GRCS, the 'visor' attachment which allows the base plate to be inserted into the tree to keep it from sliding up the trunk, is attached with a simple rod which you can pull in and out. Makes putting it on and off the base plate a matter of seconds. No bolts. Kimtree is their any reason why you bolted the winch to your base plate instead of making a plate which you can slide in and out of the base plate? How heavy is your device in comparison to the GRCS? In my Jr. Grcs, I used one 10,000 lb. ratcheting load strap. Makes it easier to set up and plenty strong

Actually the shear strength of a 3/8" bolt is massive. I dont have the charts handy but it is easy to look up on-line.

KimTree's winch looks nice, however in my opinion you dont save alot of money by building the unit yourself. If you count your time as not significant, and the materials and tools are readily available then I suppose it works out. But it is kind of like re-inventing the wheel. The GRCS is very well designed, all the welds are done well, and x-rayed for spotting flaws, and it is powder coated so it doesn't corrode easily. However to answer Buzz's response, I have always wanted a smaller lifting lowering device to replace the Port-a-crap (sorry port-a-WRAP). So using a Harken # 40, I welded up a smaller winch I call the Jr. GRCS. It is very very easy to set up with one person, and works just great. I have also included my handle storage modification. I used a clip from a tapemeasure and screwed it into the side of the handle. The handle clips and unclips very easily onto the yellow ratcheting strap which holds the winch to the trunk. enjoy

I would like to thank whomever turned me onto the LandRover4x4 web site. Very helpfull, thanks

Thanks for the link!

Here is my answer to storing the grcs winch handle while on the job: On handle has the clip on the underside, and the other handle has the clip on the side. I think the side is the better way to go so the handle does'nt stick out and get hit with falling debri. ---having trouble attaching, stand by.....