BillQ

That's the point in question, and I proved you wrong it isn't about ⬇️ Absolutely, correct just like the MOT is only valid until you drive the car away from the garage. Re underfloor. There are plenty of vents around for there to be airflow aplenty and yes they could get blocked either accidentally or on purpose but that's whataboutary or deadcatting. A simple heat engine like my stove is not going to work as supposed by the manufacturer and the independent tester as the variables are many and the stop on the primary air, in my opinion, is a blunt instrument at best, the hole drilled for the screw has a couple of mm play, the bend in the metal is possibly a couple of mm away from the natural curve of the plate which begs the question of whether it was a Friday when the person bent it and it certainly isn't a right angle. So combining those little things with the weather, the heat, length and construction/type of flue, the type of wood, the temperature of the wood, the heat of the stove etc etc I'm going to use the stove without the stop in place and use the look of the flame and the temperature of the flue (very sketchy but a reasonable way to identify the flue temperature) and how warm the room is as I am then in control of the variable factors which a metal box cannot do. I worked in all male workplaces so I have a certain amount of thick skin and I think you missed the sarcasm a little. Get used to the word narcissist, as you can't back down and you keep saying you don't care what I do but you still want to reply, your first reply was an absolute give away, next time just ask for clarification rather than think the worst of someone or tell them that they are butchering a stove by just removing a stop. I notice you didn't bother doing the same, unless I missed it, to spud when he told of how he adapted his? Perhaps you thought that you could try and bully the noob, not happening my friend.

I still didn't install it, I'm not HETAS registered, that's what you said, so I'll still wait for your "sorry I was wrong" A fools errand but hey-ho!

Why thanks for the welcome, I'm well aware of how forums get bullying narcissistic types that can't back down from their lofty heights but I'm sure that isn't the case here 🤥

What do I win? If the damp warm air inside doesn't go anywhere much apart from contacting the colder internal walls then you get condensation and mold, so having an open fire originally and wall vents the relied on that air movement to prevent that along with sash windows and wooden doors. Since then someone fitted double glazing and 6 point locking composite doors, and blocked up the lum, lovely and toasty but a condensation trap. Putting in a log burner has removed a lot of the condensation we used to get because that's how the house was built, if I blocked up the internal vents and just use the combi to heat us then I'm going out on a limb and betting we go back to condensation and mold big time.

Just for you, and I think that a "sorry I was wrong" is due?

I would disagree with that too, my house was designed for airflow (early 1960's house) and has less condensation now than with the modern gas combi boiler alone. Here's the wonder of technology that stops me from setting the right burn for the right conditions and fuel. Not rocket science that's for sure.

It is fitted with a limiter, yes but you are wrong about who fitted it, it was a HETAS registered fitter that was provided through the stove supplier. I really don't know what you think I'm doing but I would prefer that you either explain or shut up.

I don't see how it is butchering, if I lived outwith a smoke controlled area it wouldn't be there, however I am using wood that is dry and suitable for burning in it. I worked in engineering until I was in my 30's, and to an extent until I retired, and even the machinery that should have been identical due to how they were constructed needed to be run slightly differently. A metal box with insulation is not or cannot be the same as a boiler/evaporator/pump or whatever even the chimney or flue size, diameter and construction will have a bearing on how it performs against a supposedly identical unit in another setting. I don't use rubbish fuel such as pallets, sterling board, old fences or even unknown 60 quid dumpies of wood I just want to use my stove commensurate with the fuel I use and how warm I want to and I don't think that stove manufacturers get it right, nor have I as sometimes I have closed down too far and I get sooted glass but after a couple of weeks I think I have it not too bad, earlier this evening it got a bit too cool so I needed to get some heat out and now we are warmer so I'll cut down the air, by having a rudimentory stop of a screw and plate, kind of like having a bolt underneath the accelerator in a car as a speed limiter.

Nope. Security screw and a small metal plate are all that stops the primary air closing fully. When we measured the room volume and used various manufacturers (and other) online calculators and it varied between 3.5 and 4.7kw however with a 5 we can open the door and push the heat to other parts of the house. Another strange thing is they do a 5kw wide-screen stove and a 7kw stove and they are the same size. I contacted them and they said that it was just the internal parts that were different and that and other things bring us to this thread. No bite, no agenda, just curiosity

I have a multi fuel stove, most of the time we use wood but we wanted the option of using solids. Its rated 4.9kw and is "ecodesign" and must; Significantly reduce its 2.5 micron particulate emissions (aka 'PM2.5') to levels significantly lower than that of not just an open fire, but also more efficient wood stoves produced a decade ago. Restrict its emissions of 'Organic Gaseous Compounds' ('OGC'), Carbon Monoxide ('CO') and Nitrogen Oxides ('Nox'). Provide evidence of a stove's compliance through independent testing. However it occurs to me that a lot of this is very variable, engineering tolerances especially as the stove wears, installation, type of wood burned, how warmed up the box is etc etc. Recently I bypassed the primary air stop and had a play around with closing it down but not going down to slumber mode. The stop is set to around 1/3rd of the full movement of the primary air arm which was surprising. With Ash and sycamore I could go beyond where the stop was and still get a clean burn (visually) but not with softwood which would indicate that I needed to have more primary air for softwood and less for decent hardwood. If I went too far I noticed the flames went a deep red with blue tinges and keeping the flue temperature steady wasn't easy and I had to open the air back up a bit. Burn times are a lot longer but we don't get overheated by the radiant heat from too much flame and are still cosy enough. Early days as yet and most of the time it sits on or around the stop area but it is handy thing to be able to bypass I think. I realise that some may be horrified that I may be putting out more particulates or bad gasses into the air but I think that the makers of the stove and laws are being over cautious.

It does look similar to the husky visors but I wasn't sure , thanks for the reply

Not hijacking the thread but rather than add another, I'm trying to source a new mesh visor for a Jonsered helmet but can't find anything on the web? I'm not an arborist just cut downed limbs etc but still value my boyish good looks 🤥 Jonsered balance ac size 54-61 if that makes any difference

Straw?

Generally we don't slumber ours, but in the recent extended cold snap we put a shovel of solid fuel on the wood embers last thing at night and just riddle the grate first thing and add some kindling and a log on top and open the secondary air to get the embers glowing and ignite the wood. Most of the winter we just light the stove for the evening.