Weeding woodland.

[Hunter]

Hi

I have recently registered with the forum and found it to be very helpful.

I am after some advice with regarding to weeding newly planted woodland.

We have just bought a 16 acer woodland. 1.5 acer of the wood has been felled in 2003 then replanted. When we have visited the wood before buying it we can easily see the new planted trees, the sale process was very slow and during that time the woodland has dramatically changed.

Below is the picture few months ago.

Now when we visited the woodland we are unable to see the newly planted trees as grass and bramble has grown and covered the whole area. We had to search hard to find them.

I was reading and seem the best way is to use Herbicide, I read about the safe way to use herbicide, using protective equipment etc.

My question is which type of herbicide do your recommend and which herbicide bump should I Buy. The planed trees are Oak, chest nut and wild sherry.

I am happy to do the job myself, take my time and enjoy it.

[Hunter]

Another picture.

[DanSmallLGL]

Your reading was right, Herbicide treatment to maintain a 1m weed free zone around each plant will give them the best chance for establishment. I would think Glyphosate/Round up would be the best herbicide to use, and the trees will probably need 2-3 applications each year.

 

It may be worth you looking into the competency licences PA1 and PA6 to give you in-depth knowledge into the safe use and application of herbicides.

 

An alternative method for weed control could be to fit carpet (or another suppressant) around each plant. This may need some hand weeding each year and removal of the sheeting once the trees are established. But it removes the risk of spray drift damaging trees or having to buy lots of kit.

[Hunter]

Thanks Dan. I have looked at mulching mats but concluded that herbicide is more practical especially it is sloppy area.

Any idea where to buy the herbicide, how much do I need per acer?

Would this sprayer be enough. I am worried because it is only 10 pounds but reviews looks fine.

Green Pressure Sprayer 7Ltr | Garden Irrigation | Screwfix.com

[10 Bears]

Best with a knapsack sprayer

 

as for flow rates/application etc. these are all specific to your sprayer and the chem used.

 

As advised, book on a PA1/PA6 course and they will train you in their most effective use.

 

There is too much to explain about this particular subject that could be covered in a few posts.

 

I appreciate you may not want to do a course, but look at it this way, I should hope you dont want to put a lot of harmful chems into your local environment at potential risk to yourself and the immediate flora and fauna. Proper training is needed IMO.

[DanSmallLGL]

That sprayer would be fine, most commercial outfits will use a Knapsack Sprayer like this Backpack Sprayer 16 litres - Peacock Salt

I have never brought herbicides myself but seems like you can just get them from the internet https://www.amenity.co.uk/total-systemic-weed-killers/roundup-provantage.html

Each herbicide will have info on the product labels telling you how much to use and ratios to water.

[Hunter]

Thanks Guys for the top advice.

[10 Bears]

I have never brought herbicides myself....

 

Each herbicide will have info on the product labels telling you how much to use and ratios to water.

 

Sorry Dan, but your advice is precisely the sort of 'best intentions' information that gets people and the environment hurt.

 

Sure, you can buy chems off the web. You can buy sprayers too as we both pointed out. Yes, there will be water/chem ratio on the label which will give a dosage rate, usually for boom spraying per hectare, which is not what is needed here, or you may just get lucky and get some knapsack sprayer information.

 

What you dont get though from just buying from the web is the important information on how to handle all this properly. PA1/PA6 course will give you knowledge on:

 

- how to store/handle/use/dispose chems properly

- how to apply the correct amounts per individual (that's person not equipment)

- how to work out flow/dosage rate per equipment (the effects of the person and the individual both make differences to amout of chems used)

- what to do in the event of an emergency

- what to do near watercourses

- how to identify potential hazards and stop them from happening

- how to stop too much harmful chemical getting into the environment

- what is needed in terms of additional equipment to ensure the individual does not become contaminated on site

- what to do to make sure the individual does not take contaminated chems off site (and into their home to poison their dog for instance)

etc. etc. etc.

 

This is not covered through buying items from the web and just having a bash. It is covered through undertaking proper training.

 

By your own admission you have not bought chems, which I will presume (at my own risk) that you have not completed your training either. You advise the OP to buy Glyphosate - but then say nothing about the connection between Glyphosate and its carcinogenic risk, nor do you advise any PPE etc. which tells me further that you are not best informed about this particular situation.

 

I don't feel it is correct to give people information on spraying potentially dangerous chemicals which can harm them, their local environment or their pets and loved ones, without a full understanding of the implications, or without encouraging proper training.

 

Yes, I'm on my soapbox now, but I would not be comfortable giving out information that could potentially harm someone - perhaps you should show some restraint in similar situations.

[Hunter]

Thanks again, I am responsible man, married and got three children, we bought the wood to protect it and improve it as it was neglected. We have no plan to use it in any commercial way and we are fully aware that it will cost us money to maintain it.

If I have decided to go with bestrides I will not do it unless I got the required training, I may at the end decided using mulching mates instead, or get somebody to do it. the problem is we have just bought it and we have no much cash left, I am worried that as the young trees are currently completely covered with grass they may die before we could save them. The picture above is few months old but now we cannot see the trees at all.

[matelot]

How tall are the trees? I normally find trees can take more shade than you think. I also think surrounding vegetation gives a warmer micro climate. Unless they are completely smothered in vegetation they should be OK.

 

Anyway, i'd be going down the slasher route instead of chemical.

 

Weed Slasher

 

Are there deer in your woodland? Those 600mm (?) tubes aren't good against deer.