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Walking sticks


rob39
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Hi all

I've got some poles of Birch and Hazel which would make perfect walking staffs. (currently drying naturally)

Anyone have any idea on the idea thickness?

I'm wanting to keep the bark on so whats the best way of cleaning them?

May take some bark off a couple of them so whats the best way to do this?

Whats the best coating for the finished product, Danish oil? Linseed oil? Varnish?

Best prep prior to coating?

 

Any other advice on making walking sticks??

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1. Anyone have any idea on the idea thickness?"

 

 

I'm wanting to keep the bark on so whats the best way of cleaning them?

 

May take some bark off a couple of them so whats the best way to do this?

 

Whats the best coating for the finished product, Danish oil? Linseed oil? Varnish?

 

Best prep prior to coating?

 

 

 

Any other advice on making walking sticks??

 

 

1. Inch is slightly narrow but makes for a fine came. Better 1 1/8" to 1 1/4". 2" is study but heavy over long distances.

Edited by TGB
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"I'm wanting to keep the bark on so whats the best way of cleaning them?"

 

Mild soapy water applied sparingly with a sponge/cloth. Dan or gently rub.

 

 

"May take some bark off a couple of them so whats the best way to do this?"

 

Carefully cut round with a sharp craft knife first. Then cut away or peel away.

 

"Whats the best coating for the finished product, Danish oil? Linseed oil? Varnish?"

 

I'd say varnish, makes for a tougher initial surface, (but you don't need to have a great sheen on it. Though oils will continue to protect, after the stick is dented on a rock or something.

 

"Best prep prior to coating?"

 

Finely sand twig ended and knot ends. The remains of a twig or rough bark adds interest. But it'll catch on trouser legs and bare legs. Leave character but think of the end-user.

 

* Fit a brass ferrule for look & longevity. This type will require a pin to secure it; and will need to be predrilled.

* Fit a rubber ferrule for grip on most surfaces, (dry ones at least). And the user can change/renew as needed/when worn. Something like this: http://www.cosyfeet.com/walking-stick-ferrules?utm_source=CF_Shopping&utm_medium=Feed&utm_campaign=CF_Shopping&gclid=CN7G0sSPocoCFSoUwwodIn8CRQ#.VpNKUezfWc0

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To clean the sticks I use a green scotch brite pad then carefully sand or grind any large protrusions with a Drenmel. If you decide to take the bark off a spoke shave works well and leaves a nice finish. 10mm threaded rod epoxied into the shank to attach the top with a couple of contrasting spacers always looks good and is good and strong. Be sure to make a smooth transition between the mating parts, not easy to sand flush if you leave the bark on without scratching it.

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I generally use off cuts from the workshop for the handles as you can use any unusual woods. Again I use offcuts of contrasting wood for the spacers. Threaded rod from local store cheap as chips.... Ferrules from Fleabay. The best epoxy I have found is also the cheapest by 151 sets quick 6 mins.

 

As for templates there are loads of pictures on the internet buying prepared blanks saves time but are generally poor wood.

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Hi Rob, the ideal stick or shank should be 25mm at the marriage "where the shank is joined to the chosen handle" hazel is best left with bark on, when they are fully seasoned and after trimming off any little branches and sanding them you will find the bark is flaking, simply give the shank a good rubbing down with fine wire wool then wipe clean with a slightly damp clothe, the best finish is to use is TRU OIL which is what is used on gun stocks, gives a really hard finish and doesn't yellow in time like most varnishes, send me a private message and i'll send you my email address and some links to suppliers and i'll help you all i can, stick making is a great hobby and after years of doing it myself i had to pack in due to arthritis in my hands, cheers for now, Pete.

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