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Still ms 251 cbe?


Arnold9801
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This is my first post as I'm new to the forum so a big Hello to everyone.

 

I would appreciate advice on my choice of chainsaw that I have chosen to buy shortly. I don't want to pay anymore but before I go ahead and purchase, felt it wise to run it through the forum for advice in case for the same money there is a better choice.

 

I have a 3 acre plot with quite a few trees. We have a log burner so the need for logging is always there. Up until recently I had a still 180 but burnt it out whilst trying to cut up a large felled tree last winter!

 

I've always tried to buy the best I can afford, but would be grateful for any input in case there's a better chainsaw for the same/equivalent money?

 

Regards

 

Arnold9801

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Hi arnold,welcome to the forum.Ive got some experience with the stihl 251,it wasnt the cbe but the predecessor to it.

I ran a 16"bar on it for a day cutting down some spruce on a farmers land for him.Its the top end of the homeowners saws and as such its an ok little saw.

If your using it for logs and the odd small job id say yeah fine with a 14 or 16 bar.It pulls about 3bhp so its not the gruntiest saw but there are some other saws probably cheaper that will give you more power.

Check out some threads on here for echo saws,ive no personal experience with them but ive heard good things.

Good luck

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Hi & Welcome,

 

I have the earlier MS250 version of your saw, personally I wouldnt bother with the cbe version. The easy start no thanks - I much prefer a standard pull start & the 'easy' chain tension thing is an absolute failure so I changed it all back to the traditional two bolt system.

 

Ive modded the exhaust on mine so its a bit more lively now & possibly responsible for ripping off the plastic (yes plastic) chain catcher on a de-rail but it was cheap to replace.

 

Other than that theres the 'flippy caps' I hate these things with a passion, one fell to bits on me although the replacement does work slightly better, some people love them but I dont: they trap dirt in the small sections which ends up in the tank, dont fit easily, looking like theyre home when not so you end up with oil or fuel down your leg.

 

However, in use the saw cuts very well on a 14" b&c & Im happier with it after a few mods although the flippy caps continue to annoy me (call me old & stupid - I dont care, they dont work) it can run an 18" but Id say 16" is the longest.

 

Anyway, its going to be eventually replaced by a Dolmar 420SC which Shavey on here will do you a good deal for probably at a saving over a 251 - a much better saw in my opinion.

 

 

N

Edited by NFG
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Sorry I forgot my manners Arnold - welcome to the forum. Im relatively new here myself, its a really sound community, you'll love it here.

 

I had a Ms250 too. Bought used but in new condition, sold recently to help fund a bigger saw. It was ok. Good power for the weight, vibes not to bad, pretty rugged. Hard to start, easy to flood (for me anyway) savage compression.

 

All depends what size, and how much wood you be cutting on a regular basis. Hard to find the optimum saw, but I reckon you can get close with enough research.....

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Sorry I forgot my manners Arnold - welcome to the forum. Im relatively new here myself, its a really sound community, you'll love it here.

 

I had a MS250 too. Bought used but in new condition, sold recently to help fund a bigger saw. It was ok. Good power for the weight, vibes not to bad, pretty rugged. Hard to start, easy to flood (for me anyway) savage compression.

 

All depends what size, and how much wood you be cutting on a regular basis. Hard to find the optimum saw, but I reckon you can get close with enough research.....

 

Yes, hard to find optimum saw - my 260 was good but its a bit long in the tooth now - so yes, depends on how much you have to cut & agreed 250 can flood a bit easily but small saws generally have fairly small carbs so they all can flood.

 

N

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An Echo CS-420 or a Dolmar PS-420C would be similar spec but better quality (in my opinion) for less money.

 

Personally I would avoid anything with a tool free chain tensioner, more to go wrong & it is debatable whether anyone who can't operate a spanner & screwdriver should be operating a chainsaw.

Flippy caps can be a real PITA as already stated although they don't all leak I avoid them where possible.

Easy start is unnecessary unless of course you are using child labour where it can be advantageous as shown here:

 

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Ultimately which saw is right for you will depend on what you typically cut & how much wood you cut. If you give us an idea of how you use a saw we could probably give you better suggestions for example do you fell trees or is it purely for logging up firewood? What is the average diameter of the wood you cut? Mostly hardwood or softwood? How often is the saw in use, most days or just for the odd couple of days every few months?

Info like that makes it much easier to recommend a specific saw rather than just having a rough idea of your budget.

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Also bare in mind that you will have to sharpen the chain and file the rakers. Its a pain to get the rakers the right depth, but Stihl have a new file-holder system that works flawlessly and does the rakers every time you edge the chain. I don't know if the same or similar systems are available for oregon chain, maybe the sthil system will also work of oregon stuff, I don't know. My preference for Stihl has as much to do with their bars and chains as the saws....but then, there are also adapter kits to fit still bars to husky saws...or is it the other way around?

 

Don't be seduced by the oregon "self-sharpening" chain system though. Bad juju....

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Wow... Many Thanks for the response so far! I have wondered about the modern features of the cbe..ie easy start, easy chain tension etc! I do see your points regarding these issues.

 

Re my use for a chainsaw, its mainly for logging due to our wood burner. I would say that I will be cutting mainly 8 to 9 inch in particular and that will be mainly sycamore. I have a lot to cut up now that was from cutting back by Western power on my land.

 

The main reason I want to go bigger than what I had before (Stihl 180) is because when the opportunity arises to cut more and for longer, I don't want the same thing happening again where it burnt out. It is no surprise when I look back as I was going for a couple of hours on a tree whose trunk and branches were 12 inches to 9 inches and a lot of them to!

 

I want a saw that can tolerate cutting down a tree and to cut it up as well without the worry of this happening again. In the very near future, I have a large sycamore fairly close to the house that is dying and this year is showing huge fungi growing around the trunk. This will have to come down and require cutting up. If I bought a 180 again or an equivalent, then I will have to either buy another larger chainsaw again or pay for someone to do it for us! I would rather put the money to get the best chainsaw I would require, and get it now.

 

I guess I have been impressed with Stihl due to other garden machinery I have of theirs that has lasted years. On the other hand I feel a little despondent re their chainsaws after the burn out on my 180.

 

Should I consider other makes like has been suggested- Husq, Oregon etc??

 

Thanks again for the replies so far.

 

Regards

 

Arnold9801

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