Husqvarva 353 starting problems

[Superspurs]

I have a husqsvarna 353 I'm having problems with I do the usual starting methods as it doesn't get used very often pull the cord slowly a few times to prime it up engage the choke till it fires then push the choke back in and pull the cord to fire it up never had any problems before now

Now it won't start at sll I've put a little fuel down the head to fire it but that's sll it does just fire it's as if there's no feul going to the cylinder from the carb

Any suggestions please

Many thanks

Willie

 

Oh and there's no problem with spark ,spark plug coil magneto either

Edited November 18, 2014 by Superspurs
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[spudulike]

I have a husqsvarna 353 I'm having problems with I do the usual starting methods as it doesn't get used very often pull the cord slowly a few times to prime it up engage the choke till it fires then push the choke back in and pull the cord to fire it up never had any problems before now

Now it won't start at sll I've put a little fuel down the head to fire it but that's sll it does just fire it's as if there's no feul going to the cylinder from the carb

Any suggestions please

Many thanks

Willie

 

Oh and there's no problem with spark ,spark plug coil magneto either

 

Try pulling the choke out and pushing it back in, open the throttle slowly and listen for a small click. If it doesn't fo this, your fast idle latch isn't working.

 

If this is OK, it is possible the carb needs clean, adjustment or a new carb kit. Often the diaphragms go hard and stop the glow of fuel in to the metering section of the carb.

 

The gauze filter under the single screw alloy cover on the carb can get filled with fine sawdust which will need clearing.

 

Try not to use the decompression valve on starting as well.

 

If you get stuck, PM me.

[Superspurs]

Thanks spud I'll try that all the feul pipes are clear as I've had it all apart feul filter off and blown through them even the one that connect to the inlet closest to the cylinder it seems as if the feul isn't getting pulled throug from the tank and throught the carb

How do you recommend I clean the carb feul ways and I have a new diaphragm kit on order so I'd really like to get the carb cleans before installing the new diaphragm gaskets

Cheers

Superspurs

[spudulike]

Thanks spud I'll try that all the feul pipes are clear as I've had it all apart feul filter off and blown through them even the one that connect to the inlet closest to the cylinder it seems as if the feul isn't getting pulled throug from the tank and throught the carb

How do you recommend I clean the carb feul ways and I have a new diaphragm kit on order so I'd really like to get the carb cleans before installing the new diaphragm gaskets

Cheers

Superspurs

 

If fuel isn't being pulled through (plug remains dry after pulls on choke) the issue will most likely be a split fuel line or an issue with the metering arm beig low or the diaphragm going hard and stiff:blushing:

 

Cleaning the carb can be done by removing the H&L screws and using carb cleaner down the holes or using a decent Ultrasonic cleaner and specialist cleaning agents.

 

The issue is probably not dirt in the carb but may be the gauze filter as mentioned earlier.

[Superspurs]

Hi spud excuse my ignorance what's the metering arm please and how do I pm you

Cheers

Superspurs

[spudulike]

Hi spud excuse my ignorance what's the metering arm please and how do I pm you

Cheers

Superspurs

 

The metering arm is the smal steel arm that is found under the diaphragm which is under the four screw cover on the carb. On your saw, you can actually get to it without removing the carb.

 

Be careful how you remove the diaphragm, a sharp scalpel around the edge should shift it. The metering arm should be level with the alloy suround the diaphragm sits on. If there is no fuel in this chamber, it is likely that the diaphragm isn't opening the needle valve that sits on the other end so bending it up around 0.5mm may help you get the saw going.

 

Pushing on this metering arm should allow the fuel to flow, especially if you pop off the filler cap and push it soon after replacing it as the tank will have some pressure in it!

 

You PM me by clicking on my username and then "send a personal message" only bother if the advice here is not helping you and you need someone to look at the saw and resolve the issues.

 

It will be either that or the local repair man/agent.

[avio]

Have the same saw but start slightly differently. My saw is also quite often not used for a few months. Pull out decompression button. Pull out choke fully. Pull once or twice and it normally fires and stops. Push in choke half way. Pull and hopefully start and push choke fully in after about 10 secs. Make sure the spark plug is clean or replace if you have problems starting.

I'm not a professional arborist but never had a problem with this saw in 3 years now.

Hope this helps.

[spudulike]

Have the same saw but start slightly differently. My saw is also quite often not used for a few months. Pull out decompression button. Pull out choke fully. Pull once or twice and it normally fires and stops. Push in choke half way. Pull and hopefully start and push choke fully in after about 10 secs. Make sure the spark plug is clean or replace if you have problems starting.

I'm not a professional arborist but never had a problem with this saw in 3 years now.

Hope this helps.

 

I thought the 353, 346, 357, 359 all shared the same choke design, no halfway setting:confused1:

[avio]

I take your point, there is no physical stop or anything but you can push it in only halfway.

[spudulike]

I take your point, there is no physical stop or anything but you can push it in only halfway.

 

OK, understand but never felt the need to on these saws, always good starters when set up right IMO!