Tall Fir Rigging

[atree]

Hey Reg,Hope the TCIA was a good trip.

 

Quick question,When rigging down that spar where you just putting step cuts in or a face cut?Whats your thoughts on that for a straight spar?

[RC0]

Hey Reg,Hope the TCIA was a good trip.

 

Quick question,When rigging down that spar where you just putting step cuts in or a face cut?Whats your thoughts on that for a straight spar?

 

Those logs I was cutting a face and leaving a very fine hinge. Step cuts....depends on whose up there and how big thing logs are. They do fall out further from the tree because the log pivoits on the corner of the stump, as opposed to where the hinge is set, so in that respect you don't get so much of a dip in the rope when the log tips over, which is not a bad thing. On the downside your accuracy can suffer with a big log which runs the risk of the log slamming the rigging line below the block. Like I said, it works, so long as you know your limitations.

[atree]

Hey Reg,

 

See when you speedine those firs out,do you tie off the speed line/climb line every so often as you work up the tree or straight to the top?

 

Cheers

[RC0]

Hey Reg,

 

See when you speedine those firs out,do you tie off the speed line/climb line every so often as you work up the tree or straight to the top?

 

Cheers

 

Depends how much effort, time or necessity is involved. if its an easy climb then its nice to set a tie in for both the climbline and zip line at the top of the tree from the word go.

 

If you need to swing support of balance limbs from the back or sides of the tree, or raise them up even, then the zip line has to be set at least 2+ times the height verses the length of the limbs to be cut. If you have the air space or clearance to just butt tie the limbs and let them hang upside down then you dont need a higher rigging point.

 

If you do choose the high rigging point then you might want to set redirects down the trunk to ensure that you're not working at a greater distance than 25 ft or so from the redirects or high rigging point. Otherwise it can be a pita to whip the zipline back to the climber each time because the line ends up so far away from the tree. Its show clearly in the Hillside Fir vid I put on recently. Thanks

[atree]

Depends how much effort, time or necessity is involved. if its an easy climb then its nice to set a tie in for both the climbline and zip line at the top of the tree from the word go.

 

If you need to swing support of balance limbs from the back or sides of the tree, or raise them up even, then the zip line has to be set at least 2+ times the height verses the length of the limbs to be cut. If you have the air space or clearance to just butt tie the limbs and let them hang upside down then you dont need a higher rigging point.

 

If you do choose the high rigging point then you might want to set redirects down the trunk to ensure that you're not working at a greater distance than 25 ft or so from the redirects or high rigging point. Otherwise it can be a pita to whip the zipline back to the climber each time because the line ends up so far away from the tree. Its show clearly in the Hillside Fir vid I put on recently. Thanks

 

Cheers Reg,

 

I just watched that Hillside Fir vid again and see what you mean.We have tallish pine to speed line next week but has small trees underneath to avoid and a steep angle to the chipper.