No stress on green mech ec150

[talismanfisher]

Where is (or should be) the no stress sensor in the green mech ec150 chipper??

 

Ta

[jimthedog]

Where is (or should be) the no stress sensor in the green mech ec150 chipper??

 

Ta

 

Don't think they have a sensor. Think they work of the voltage put back in from the alternator. But might be totally wrong....

[PC tree]

Where is (or should be) the no stress sensor in the green mech ec150 chipper??

 

 

 

Ta

 

 

Mine is a ex 15/23 and it's next to the belts pulley off the back of the main shaft under bonnet. It had a grey wire to it.

[PeteB]

On an EC150, look under the green plastic cover which houses the key, hour meter and No Stress light.

 

Lister engined machines (and some others) sensed rotation off of the rotor shaft via a sensor fitted through the alloy cover that also carried the hydraulic pump. This grey wire fed back into the white box which made the decision. This in turn gave the solenoid the "open/shut" voltage and also displayed a red/green indicator light. I

 

Other machines sensed rotor speed via the alternator, but the red/green light and solenoid sequence was the same.

 

What lights do you have?

[talismanfisher]

Hi, many thanks. I've had a look today and no sign of any sensor or wires from the alloy casing that's at the pump end, there is a small threaded hole that looks ideal for a sensor tho..............

 

Lights wise it starts with flashing red then sold red changing to green once revs are up?

I've just fitted new disc blades which seems to have helped though I've not fed in anything that'd require the no stress to activate.

[talismanfisher]

It is a lister engine by the way, the serial number of the no stress unit is 0701015

Machine is model EC150/25 D

 

Whilst I've got your attention........the gap between the cutting face of the disc and the shear bars is around 6mm. To much? Shear bar is quite worn and I'm guessing it could be replaced to help further?

[PeteB]

The sequence of lights is correct - there is an overide tap under the infeed chute which needs checking before we go further. The tap spigot has a groove crossing from corner to corner (if the handle is missing), this should be parrallel to the number plate board to work the no stress device. If it isn't parrallel, this overides the system allowing the rollers to feed in at any engine speed.

 

If it is, identify the solenoid valve in the same assembly (it has an electrical connection going to a black, plastic covered coil), run the machine at full speed (Green light) and the nut holding the coil in place should become slightly magnetic, this magnetism stops when the revs are lowered (red light). Or, with a volt meter or test light, check that 12 volts run through to the plug at top speed and zero on low speed.

 

No electric means bad or broken connection somewhere, no magnetism could be a duff coil pack, both 12v and magnetism on a green light could mean stuck valve.

 

Always check that the engine throttle is hitting the stops rather than the handle, and it would be a worthy investment having the hydraulic pressures checked - they should be close to but not above 3000psi. That would rejuvenate her....

[PeteB]

Sorry, gap twixt blade and bars (verticle and horizontal) should 1.5 - 2.0mm and the bar should have a square edge. Replacement isn't always easy as the countersunk bolts that hold them can round off through corrosion. I have done some okay and buggered others - then the flywheel has to get yakked out and a nut welded to the bolt heads. At that point, it is worth changing the bearings which is another job....Check the condition of the bearings by putting a pry bar between the casing and the rotor and giving it a shove - it shouldn't move far in either direction...

 

Are you any good with spanners, welders etc? Take it to your nearest GreenMech dealer who will be able to get the parts easily enough, and leave you free to earn while you spend!

Edited June 30, 2014 by PeteB
spelling, again, should have listened at school...

[VTS]

Could it be the fuel solenoid not activating.does it make a clicking sound when you press the activation button prior to turning the key. Check the 2 relays under the control panel, one activates the solenoid, the other holds it.

Also, where you describe a hole in the casing next to the coupling, this is where my sensor is leading back to the sensor box.

[PeteB]

Could it be the fuel solenoid not activating.does it make a clicking sound when you press the activation button prior to turning the key. Check the 2 relays under the control panel, one activates the solenoid, the other holds it.

Also, where you describe a hole in the casing next to the coupling, this is where my sensor is leading back to the sensor box.

 

The fuel solenoid doesn't affect the No Stress device, it basically turns on the fuel....The alloy housing is drilled and tapped for a sensor and the bearing collar is still equipped for a sensor. However, if it senses rpm through the altinater, the wiring to the box is different, but the light sequences are the same.

 

The alternator is a quicker way of measuring the speed, that is all.