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Advice.. Chainsaw newbie and jonsereds 49


champagnecharly
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ahh handy cheers :thumbup1:

 

They actually also mention chainbrake for the 49 however no price so I want to check its not a webtrap and meaningless.. will be calling them shortly.. if things advance, if of interest I could get 2.. i much prefer electric ignition > points..

 

[

 

s.varty.. Experience.. as good as none.. only with a comparatively small stihl and there wasnt much to do.

 

 

 

Then be very careful and show that saw a lot of respect, if you cant do that , please show your injuries on here.

 

 

mmm. yes.. its the potential injuries i'm worried about.. hence why i want it in good condition before thinking about using it.

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ok.. well from what i read they are the old shoe brake and not efficient.

 

however same as on:

49, 52/52E/ 621, 66E, 70E, 80 and 90

 

thanks to cantdog on arboristsite

 

That's true - false sequrity.

 

Cantdog is one of the true experts regarding these ol' Jonsereds saws.:001_smile:

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That's true - false sequrity.

 

Cantdog is one of the true experts regarding these ol' Jonsereds saws.:001_smile:

 

Or as cantdog says.. false secrity but better than none. Hence why the importance of the green chain also..

 

Anyway i got my hands on a spares/repair 52e. for 35 notes.. 'with' false security..

 

Curious how does the chainguard actually kickin at time of kickback?

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Or as cantdog says.. false secrity but better than none. Hence why the importance of the green chain also..

 

Anyway i got my hands on a spares/repair 52e. for 35 notes.. 'with' false security..

 

Curious how does the chainguard actually kickin at time of kickback?

 

That one only kicks in when the operators wrist is hit by the brake handle, and it doesn't totally lock the clutch like modern chain brakes. No inertia activation like modern brakes either.

 

Your attitude towards "green" chain is fine if you are not an experienced chainsaw operator. If you avoid hitting anything with the top halv of the bar tip you don't get any kickbacks anyway though.

 

My 1970 Jonsereds Raket 621 doesn't have a brake - but I always used "yellow" chain on it, without a single kickback in many years of use.

 

My point is that operator awareness is much more important than the "color" of the chain.

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That one only kicks in when the operators wrist is hit by the brake handle, and it doesn't totally lock the clutch like modern chain brakes. No inertia activation like modern brakes either.

 

Your attitude towards "green" chain is fine if you are not an experienced chainsaw operator. If you avoid hitting anything with the top halv of the bar tip you don't get any kickbacks anyway though.

 

My 1970 Jonsereds Raket 621 doesn't have a brake - but I always used "yellow" chain on it, without a single kickback in many years of use.

 

My point is that operator awareness is much more important than the "color" of the chain.

 

Great safety feature!

 

The tip re using only bottom of the bar is something I did not know. So thank you!.

 

Regards the yellow:green chains... I was reading reviews on the oregon vanguard and read that they were hard do sharpen correctly and as such potentially liable to kick back more if incorrectly sharpened.. This made me wonder if I was going to be better off just getting a semi chisel pro chain with (yellow) reduced kickback. What are your thoughts?

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Great safety feature!

 

The tip re using only bottom of the bar is something I did not know. So thank you!.

 

Regards the yellow:green chains... I was reading reviews on the oregon vanguard and read that they were hard do sharpen correctly and as such potentially liable to kick back more if incorrectly sharpened.. This made me wonder if I was going to be better off just getting a semi chisel pro chain with (yellow) reduced kickback. What are your thoughts?

 

The inside of your head is the most important safety feature. A firm grip with both hands help a lot as well.

If you are totally new to chainsaws, the Stihl RM3 chain may be the right one to start with. It is semi-chisel, and "green", without making it really bad for regular cross-cutting. About the same is the case with Oregon BPX, but that one only is availiable in .325. BPX is closer to the borderline between green and yellow though.

 

Just remember that no saw chain really is safe!

Edited by SawTroll
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