Alaskan vertical mini mill ~ making a runner

[morten]

I have done a fair bit of milling with both the Mini Mill and the Alaskan, and have found a way of mounting the guide rails that is fairly easy.

 

For the Mini Mill, I have used a laminated floor joist (but I guess any plywood would do). I found that it was difficult to find a standard 6"x2" that was straight and would stay straight over time, but the laminated wood is very stable.

 

For the Alaskan I use an aluminium ladder (actually two with different lengths), but rather than securing it with screws through the rungs (with the risk of sawing into the screws, and having to have a lot of different screw lengths available), I have constructed a small bracket that holds the ladder and is screwed into the log-end. If the log is long, I put a small wedge under one of the rungs halfway down, to prevent any deflection. Works very well.

[SteveA]

I have done a fair bit of milling with both the Mini Mill and the Alaskan, and have found a way of mounting the guide rails that is fairly easy.

 

For the Mini Mill, I have used a laminated floor joist (but I guess any plywood would do). I found that it was difficult to find a standard 6"x2" that was straight and would stay straight over time, but the laminated wood is very stable.

 

For the Alaskan I use an aluminium ladder (actually two with different lengths), but rather than securing it with screws through the rungs (with the risk of sawing into the screws, and having to have a lot of different screw lengths available), I have constructed a small bracket that holds the ladder and is screwed into the log-end. If the log is long, I put a small wedge under one of the rungs halfway down, to prevent any deflection. Works very well.

 

Thanks Morten, that's helpful to see those photos.

How are you attaching the mini mill guide (your laminated plank) to the log?

I like the way you've bracketed the ladder so that it can be screwed into the end.

Cheers, Steve

[morten]

Thanks Morten, that's helpful to see those photos.

How are you attaching the mini mill guide (your laminated plank) to the log?

I like the way you've bracketed the ladder so that it can be screwed into the end.

Cheers, Steve

 

Mini Mill guide is fixed using screws. Pre-drill holes in the guide to make certain that they do not conflict with the Mini Mill itself. I suggest using screws with hex head (it doesn't matter if they protrude if located wisely), as Torx and similar will fill up with sawdust.

 

I have attached a few photos of the ladder-bracket (for the Alaskan Mill). It needs to be about 4" wide, allowing you to lift one end of the ladder to saw parallel to the grain.

Edited April 3, 2014 by morten

[SteveA]

Mini Mill guide is fixed using screws. Pre-drill holes in the guide to make certain that they do not conflict with the Mini Mill itself. I suggest using screws with hex head (it doesn't matter if they protrude if located wisely), as Torx and similar will fill up with sawdust.

 

I have attached a few photos of the ladder-bracket (for the Alaskan Mill). It needs to be about 4" wide, allowing you to lift one end of the ladder to saw parallel to the grain.

 

Looks like a good and simple way of fixing, simple is good!

Is it best to mill the top of the log first, and then do the sides? Cheers, Steve

[morten]

Looks like a good and simple way of fixing, simple is good!

Is it best to mill the top of the log first, and then do the sides? Cheers, Steve

 

Depends on the conditions and what you are cutting.

 

But if you are making boards from a log, I recommend cutting it in half (through the heart) first, for two reasons:

 

1. You will have a wider "land" for the Alaskan mill to rest on.

 

2. Any build-up of imperfections in the cut (wobble, dip at the end etc) will be minimized, compared to milling boards from the top.

[SteveA]

Just found this chap using an aluminium guide... csm1.jpg Photo by tswoodshop | Photobucket

[Goaty]

I'd love to see a way that you would have a set of first cut rails like a ladder type set up - that you could use to get the first cut but then it would also act as the rail for the mini mill or a mini mill type set up...

 

 

Maybe one day!

 

 

 

I did make a start on a mini mill ladder setup but it needs more development, time I don't have at the moment.http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/60089-diy-vertical-ladder-mill.html

[SteveA]

Just had a check with my feather edge and it's too narrow (at 4") to do what I'm wanting.... but here's a couple of rubbish quality photos to show what I'm thinking:

 

A 6" wide beam would mean I could run the right hand v-guide on the outside of the Alaskan (vertical) mini mill without interference.

The Alaskan (horizontal) Small Log Mill would run along both of the v-guides so it's not tilted.

 

Simple but cunning eh!?...

 

[SteveA]

[SteveA]

How thick do I need my 6"x2" aluminium guide beam to be for the Alaskan mill?.... don't want it to be bending:

 

The choice of aluminium thickness is:

10 swg (3.18mm) like this 6 in x 2 in x 10 swg - Aluminium Box Section : AluminiumWarehouse

or 6.35mm like this 6 in x 2 in x 1/4 in - Aluminium Box Section : AluminiumWarehouse

 

I'd rather order the thinner 3.18mm stuff because it's cheaper, but would it resist bending or twisting over a 10ft length? Cheers, steve